Rooster2

No fresh (cheap) ideas on how to fix this. Since you added the thickener, (maybe something like STP or the like?) and now the warning light now comes only after the motor has warmed up and the thick oil is now flowing more freely, only under scores my feeling that your connecting rod bearings are bad. Reving up the engine is increasing oil pressure to lube the worn bearing tolerances. Letting engine idle back to 800 rpm or so, reduces the oil pressure, and you are back to poor lubrication, and the warning light back on. There are a lot of people out there smarter than me, but in my opinion, I am thinking that you need to replace the rod bearings, or it may be easier and cheaper to drop in another engine. With bad bearings in your motor, it is very possible that a connecting rod to break (throw a rod). If that happens the broken rod usually punches a hole in the side of the engine block, and that is the absolute death of that engine. I had that happen years back when driving an old Chevy. When that happens, you know it is absolutely time to call a tow truck.

Well, I have the half Amsoil syn ATF, and half regular ATF fluid in my trany. The synthetic is completely compatible with regualar ATF. I really don't know the advantages of syn ATF, but for the added price, I thought it may lube better then the regular stuff. At the time, I was having the delayed forward engagement problem, so adding the Amsoil seemed like a good thing to do to my car. However, I am convinced it is the Trans-X that fixed my trany. On your 96, your Auto trany does not have an external filter. Subaru started doing that first on the 99 model. Yes, there is a filter type fine mesh screen that can be replaced when you drop the trany pan. However, I don't ever recommend changing the screen. Twice I have dropped the pan on two different cars to replace the screen, only to find it almost squeaky clean in both cases. Changing it was a waste of time. Not only that, cleaning off the old hard pan gasket to install a new pan gasket was hard, very hard work, and on one car the pan gasket continued to leak ATF after the gasket change. My opinion is to never ever drop the pan. Draining and replacing old fluid is the only maintenance to the auto trany over the life of the car. If the trany ever went bad, I would still never drop the trany pan. There is nothing there that is servicable to give access to repair the trany. Buying a used trany is the best course of action.

Since this has been an on again, off again warning light problem, with the oil pump replaced, I would have to think that miles and miles of this has worn out the connecting rod bearings, thus the tapping noise. A mechanic taught me to use heavier weight oil when a car has over 100K on the odo. Don't know how cold it is where you live, but if you live in the South where the weather is not that cold, I would recommend changing the oil to 20W -50W weight to see if that stops the rod knock sound and warning light. If it does, then that is a pretty good sign of worn rod bearings. For the cost of an oil change, it is worth a try.

It would be helpful to know what year, and which Subie model you own. Just for giggles, I opened up my 98 OBW owners manual. In the fuse panel located under the hood, headlight left side is position number 32, headlight right side is position number 34.

I think all the Porsche engines have gone to water cooling for some years now. For Porsche to sell their high buck sports cars, a poor heater would be totally unacceptable.

There was a previous write up last year on how to disassemble the dash to gain access to change the bulbs. Pictures were included to make the instructions very clear. Do a search on this forum to find this information. It did not look like a difficult project.

I have read that the H4 has better gas milage then the H6, but by how much, I don't know. Prolly written up in the archives here if you search around. The H6 is more difficult to work on than the H4. The engine bay is filled up just that much more. Not as easy to get your hands in and around things.

Yea working on a Subie engine is nice. Everything except the spark plugs is a breeze to change. I considered buying a Dodge minivan at the same time that an 08 Subie OBW were available for sale. I opened the hood on the Dodge, and saw that the motor lay out was an impossible mess. Nothing was user friendly to work on under the hood in that minivan. That convinced me to pass on buying the van.

Yea, I know know what you mean about the "oil slopped all over it" look. That usually happens just after having added ATF to the system through the dip stick tube. Some ATF adhers to the inside of the dip stick tube. I usually wait a little while before checking the level, or drive the car around a bit to get the ATF hot, and allow what ATF that has accumulated on the inside surface of the dip stick tube to heat up and drain down into the tranny pan. Then, check ATF level with the dip stick. Still, the dip stick is kind of narrow, so it is not that easy to read the fluid level.

Draining the ATF from the pan removes about four and a half litres, so by adding five litres, plus a can of Trans-X, the trany has to be over filled. Are you sure you are pushing the dip stick down completely inside the stick tube? With my car, hoses cross over the top of the dip stick tube, making it hard to see what I am doing. I assume you are checking the fluid level when the engine is at full warm up operation level, while the car is on level pavement, and the engine is running with the trany in Park or Neutral with the hand brake applied.

I understand the risk about not declaring the 2.5T motor swap to your insurance company as you say, but what is the difference in not declaring a turbo converted to your 1.6 motor? The non declare factor seems the same to me. Also, if you did have an insurance claim, how would the insurance company know that you have changed the motor? If the car was damaged in an accident that did not involve the front of the car, the insurance agent would not be looking under the hood (bonnet). If the front of the car got hit hard enough to damage the engine, it would result in the insurance company declaring the car a "total loss." No one would care, or notice, that the engine had a turbo.

Thanks guys, the diff lube change is now on my "to do" list. It will be a while before I can get to it. It is still winter here in Indiana, so it will take some time before the outside temp gets into the 50's to do some comfortable work outside. Just one more thing to do.

Is it a good idea to drain the gear oil from both diffs? Or, is it a matter of just topping off, if the oil level is a little low? The last time I changed diff gear oil on my Audi,I used a synthetic 75W-90W. It was clear in color, and a little pricy. Is it advisable to use the synthetic in a Sub?

Ouch........$2500, but better then replacing the entire engine. At least you dodged that bullett.

I have been lazy, and never ever checked the lube level in my front and rear diffs. on my two Subbies. I know how to do it, but just how important is this to do? I don't see any lube stains on the diffs that would be caused by leakage, so I assume the lube level is okay. Opinions would be appreciated. Thanks Larry (Roooster2)

That is a good price for a car that appears to not have sustained much collision damage. Since you don't have wrecking yards with Subarus near you, suggest telephoning wrecking yards in a major city that is closest to you. You should be able to find parts there. Many yards will pull parts, package them in cardboard, and send them to you via UPS or Fed Ex truck, without you ever showing up at their yard. I feel confident that you can source a fender and bumper going this route. The really small pieces you may have to source through a dealer, or an on-line parts store, but ask a wrecking yard too, as they are in the biz to sell parts. Good luck, if you are half way handy with a wrench, you can turn this project into a really sweet car.

Were you having a problem with delayed forward engagement? If so, has the Trans-X corrected the problem?

That should be the right amount of ATF with additive. I hope you added Trans X as the additive. It is the only known additive to correct delayed forward engagement. There may be others, but I am not aware of anyone mentioning that. I tried using Lucas stop leak, but it didn't fix the delayed forward engagement. How to check fluid level.......park on a flat surface, completely warm up engine, it doesn't matter if trany is put into Park or Neutral setting when checking fluid level. Leave the engine running, when you remove the dip "stick" to check the fluid level. Don't over fill the trany, as that is not good. Remember that it only takes about a pint (half a litre) of ATF to fill trany from lower hash mark to high hash mark on the dip"stick."

I remember a couple of years back that I went to a parts store to buy replacement plugs for my '98 OBW. I can't remember if there were NGKs or Nippon Denso that were in the car, but exact replacement plugs were expensive, like $8-$10+/plug for some exotic top of the line model spark plug. I thought that was outrageous. Projected total cost with tax out the door was $40+. I opted for a cheaper plug made by the same company, and it has run just fine.

I had a similiar experience a few years back. I knew the element media in the cat converter was loose, I could hear it rattle when the car was at idle. On the return side of a 600 mile round trip, the media decided to plug the exhaust pipe. It caused so much restriction, that the car would not go faster than 48 mph. I had to complete that trip on a Sunday afternoon driving down the interstate at 48 mph with the 4 ways on driving on the shoulder dodging road kill and lost exhaust system mufflers. However unlike yours, my car had some power up to a 2500 rpm, after that it wouldn't rev up any higher. However, after reading all that you have said, I kinda think you are having trany problems. I seemed to have read that your motor revs just fine, you just can't get the engine power to the wheels.

I use the Bosch Platinum plug, the least expensive model with the single electrode (the hooked portion). These plugs don't get gapped. I have 20K miles on them, and they run great. Yea, I have read here that Subies require NGK plugs. I installed the Bosch plugs before joining this forum. No complaints about Bosch plugs! They don't cost an arm and a leg, like other plugs do.

Try adding some stop leak like Barr's or the clear liquid kind,(can't remember the name). I have stopped heater core leaks this way. I had the same problem as you, interior fogging of the windows, plus the smell of antifreeze. The stop leak actually became a permanent fix of the heater core. It is a lot less expensive and time consuming to try this cheap fix first.

I have a 99 OBW, so I have the same Panasonic audio unit that you have. I don't think there is an option that an external CD changer can be added to the unit. You might contact Crutchfield Inc, http://www.crutchfield.com/ to see what they have to fit a Subie. The tech guys there are really sharp to know what car stereo will fit what car. They are very helpful to talk with on the telephone.

Ditto on above. The heat shield tinny rattlie noisy is easily self fixed. Search the archives on this subject at this website. A lot has been previously posted on how to fix the rattle. It is pretty simple.

ditto previous responder.......Barr's works well, just don't use too much of it. It can plug up your heater core if you use too much, as the tubing in the heater core is much smaller in diameter compared to radiator tubing. I used something called Liquid Seal or something with a name like that a few years back. It will be on the auto parts shelf near the Barr's. It is a clear liquid in a see through plastic bottle. It worked well, and my mechanic spoke highly of it.