Rooster2

I buy a lot from Walmart because their prices are low, but draw the line on using their automotive service department. Just getting a flat repaired there on my Subie was a Chinese fire drill in dealing with inept employees. A stupid manager ordering dumb people around is a sure fire formula for getting bad work done on your car. IMO, they hire the dumbest people that couldn't hold a job in a good tire store or oil change center, or be a mechanic anywhere else. My opinion is that this happens on a national scale with Walmart. When I had a card with Sam's Club, and bought tires there 15 years ago, their work was no better.

I like that you put the sound on you tube for anyone to hear. You certainly have some sort of "rotational based" sound, that sounds like a bad bearing, perhaps a bad CV joint bearing. When mine went bad on my 99 OBW, it sound a lot like that. If you haven't done so, look and feel around the inner and outer CV joints searching for a torn rubber boot. If you find a torn boot, then I would suspect that dirt and water have damaged the bearing. Replacing the half shaft would be the solution.

Glad we are back, I sure hated to see what the hackers had left us to work with. Typing white on black seems strange. Is this how this forum will look from now on? Thanks for the repairs, we all appreciate that!

My wife's 98 OBW has a small leak somewhere. Like you, I would really question paying a shop $1100 to start throwing in new parts just to fix a small leak. With just 60K miles on your odo, your A/C system shouldn't be needing new parts. I simply add a little bit of 134a refrigerant myself into the system low port. It took me all of 10 minutes to do that last night with a cost of less then $10 with one of those shaving can size containers from a car parts store. I have a pressure guage on the feed line that tells me how much to add. It is really a very easy diy project. My wife just called me to report in that her Subie's A/C system is back to pumping out really cold air. System works, wife's happy, life is good.

Suggest contacting Trans-X manufacturer at: custserv.crc@crcindustries.com to see if they have a Brazilian sales network. If not contact me at: Fish6525@yahoo.com. Maybe I can help. (Rooster2)

Yes, I just went to Autozone, and bought a can of Trans-X Automatic Transmisson Slip-stop & Leak Fix to keep on my parts shelf, and also to report contact info here. However, Porcupine 73 scouped me, by reporting here first. Here is some additional info......the Trans-X part number for the can is: 402015, for the 15 oz can. This is the size can that you would want to purchase to add to your Subies tranny. I also checked out CRC industries website (as listed above), who manufacturers Trans-X. IMO, their website is about worthless. The website says very little about Trans-X, or where to purchase the product world wide. However, Parts America (website listed above) should be able to ship you Trans-X world wide. I hope all this helps!

Yea, I looked around on Google for Trans-X. I found only testimonials by people that have used it. I will swing by an Autozone store, where I bought it, and report back who manufacturers the product.

Amsoil is headquartered in Minnesota, USA. Do a google search on Amsoil. Also, a google search for Trans X to find a distributor or retailer near you.

My money is on a noisy tire, since taking the tire off, then installing snows, eliminated the problem. A tire with a bad belt can make some rrrrrrr sounding noise that is similiar to the sound of a bad wheel bearing. Having owned a several cars over the years, a wheel bearing going bad would start making the rrrrrrr sound, and would only get louder and louder. Noise would be louder still when stressing the bearing on a turn, like a freeway exit. However, to answer your first question, I am pretty certain that you will need aa hub tamer, or hub shark, etc........some sort of a press to swap out the bearing, if it comes to that.

I don't think there is a max high octane number that would be unsafe that you can purchase at a gas station. Your engine might run just slightly better, but not much at any higher octane. Yea, aviation gas is super high octane, and could cause trouble, but I doubt that you are referring to that. What is unsafe, is how much extra $$ you will be spending for minimal performance increase. On the other hand, using fuel rated below 87 octane would be unsafe because of probable fuel detonation (pinging). I have seen where real bad pinging can blow a hole in the top of a piston. However, I think heavy carbon deposits helped cause the detonation.

Strange as it may seem, the random over heating is very typical of a head gasket going bad. IMO, you will have to repair the head gasket, because the over heating attacks will get more and more frequent. Suggest not driving your car in a state of over heating. To do so, will completely destroy the engine. One easy way to verify that a head gasket is bad, is to look for bubbles in your radiator over flow tank during an over heating episode. Bubbles are exhaust gas that is entering the cooling system causing the over heating.

IMO this sounds like a head gasket going south on you. You can reads a lot about this on this forum by reading the archives on this website. This is a common problem with Subies with your 2.5 litre engine.

Some where along the line, you must have had a tire or two out of balance, and ran it that way for a while to cause the cupping. It is just so easy to do. I have btdt with previous cars. Once a tire is cupped, about all you can do is put it on the rear of the car, where it's continuing bouncing won't be as noticable. Contrary to logic, it will never wear itself smooth into a perfect round shape again. I doubt that alignment or bad shocks caused your problem, unless your shocks are so bad that they are about as effective as old fashion fly sprayers. Bad alignment would show itself by wearing out one side of a tire faster then the rest of the tire, but won't cause cupping. However, I don't read that you are saying that.

I have a Leggie 98 OBW that has made a very slight grinding noise since last winter. I couldn't find anything wrong with the brake assembly, so thought it was a bad wheel bearing. I took to a shop, but the mechanic said the wheel bearing was good. So, I just lived with the slight noise. Now, thanks to your post, I bet the noise is from the disc rubing the backing plate. I am relieved to know it is nothing serious or expensive to fix.

It has been about 6 months now since I posted the original "FIXED!!," so far so good. Trany continues to operate normally. I continue to sing the praise of Amsoil syn ATF and a can of Trans X.

When pouring in the synthetic ATF, I did not notice that it was thicker (more viscous) then regular ATF. I too seemed to have more shifting problems when trany was warm/hot vs being cold. Thinking like you, that a thicker viscosity would help, I first added Lucas Trany additive. The stuff was super thick like STP. However, the thicker stuff did not fix the shifting problem for me. Still recommend synthetic ATF plus Trans X. That fixed the problem for me. The alternative is to replace the trany with a used one. Cost of buying a new one, or repairing an existing one is expensive. Just my 2 cents worth of suggestions.

Had similiar problem with my Leggie 99 OBW with A/T. Car became more and more hesitant to shift from R to any of the forward gears. Sometimes I had to wait 10 to 15 seconds or longer to get car to shift from R to D. Trany worked fine once I got it engaged in Drive. I got lucky and fixed the problem by draining trany fluid, and replacing with Amsol synthetic ATF (about 5 quarts), and one can of Trans X brand ATF additive. I also replaced the external ATF screw on filter that looks exactly like an oil filter, but it is not. Replacement filter must be specific for an automatic transmisson. I was amazed that these fluid changes cured the problem nearly instantaneously. That has been 6 months ago with no return of the shifting problem. Amsol products aren't well retailed, so difficult to find and purchase. However, I would think that any manufacturer's synthetic ATF would do as well. It's a cheap fix with total cost of less then $50. If your ATF is really dark in color, and smells burnt, you may want to change the fluid with regular ATF a couple of times, before adding the synthetic ATF and Trans X. Only about half of the ATF will drain from the trany at any one time, the rest remains in the trany torque converter, so a couple of changes are needed to drain most of the bad ATF. There is a drain plug bolt on the bottom of the trany pan that makes it easy to drain the ATF. Replace ATF by pouring it into the tube that holds the AT fluid dip stick. It is as simple an operation as draining oil from the pan in an oil change, and an easy diy job. Hope this helps, Larry (Rooster2)

on my 99 Subie Leggy OBW, I run 35 psi on all four tires. As you already know, running more psi then 35 creates a rather harsh ride.

Sounds like your starter is going bad. They will do that, make strange noises just before going totally out. Suggest replacing the starter. It is a fairly easy diy job.

I have never tried this on a Subie, but when this would occur on my old VW, I would use a needle or shirt pin to clean out the nozzle hole. Both are rather small in diameter. Just insert the needle or pin a few times in the nozzle would clean out the built up crud. Test the squirter for improved performance, reclean if needed.

Agree with above, I have used Chevron Techron for many years with excellent results. Also, TL-3 available at Auto Zone is good. Anything else sold with a price lower than $5.00/ container is pretty worthless. Don't add more to a tank of gas then recommended.

How long since the spark plugs and wires have been changed?

Lots written on this, at the bottom of this thread you will see similiar posts. Just post on these old posts to see how others, including me, have fixed the shrill buzzy sound of a loose heat shield.

I have had good luck using Windex and paper towels. Just squirt, and start wiping.