Rooster2

I agree with John. Only once did I pull off an AT pan with the best of intentions of replacing the trany filter to find the fine mesh screen that Subaru calls a filter. After 165K miles, the screen was still clean, so I reinstalled the pan using the old filter. That caused the pan to leak a little. You are far better off to just change the ATF about 3 separate times, and forgetting about changing the internal pan filter screen. Each ATF change only drains out about half of the ATF in the trany unit per operation, so that is the reason for changing 3 separate times. Yes, the spark plugs are a real PITA to change. I did so on my 99 Leggy Outback. It took two nights to finish the job, using a variety of sockets, drive extensions, mini drive extensions, swivels, and cussing to get the job done. I have heard that loosening the motor mounts, then jacking up the motor on each side helps, but I have never tried doing that.

Not to alarm you, but at least to give you a 'heads 'up. My experience with a leaking/weaping radiator turned out to be related to a head gasket going bad. The bad head gasket allowed exhaust gas to sometimes but not always to bleed into the cooling system. The added pressure or heat caused the radiator to leak. I replaced the radiator, and after driving for a week, noticed the car would occassionaly but not always over heat. Replacing head gaskets cured the problem.

Two years of letting a car sit can cause problems for any car. I see that you are from the State of Washington. If the car sat outside for two years, there is a possibility of wiring degredation. You just might have some wiring that is not grounding as it should. When that happens, electrically charged wiring will do some strange things trying to find a ground, and cause some wierd problems like you are encountering right. Suggest using a volt meter to check wiring to see if circuits are grounding properly. It can be time consuming, but may solve problems.

Thanks for the info on using "any size fuse." I bet most people don't know that, or when to use the FWD system.

i'd get some with the "system sealer" in it for good measure. Suggest going easy on any "system sealer" product. Yea, maybe a little is okay, use more and your are likely to seal up the internal tubing in the condensor or evaporator. I did that only once, and learned my lesson.

I sure am glad this issue was posted. I am on my third Leggy with AWD and AT. I knew about the existance of the FWD fuse, and that is about it. I never knew when it should be used, let alone what size fuse to insert in the fuse holder. Thanks for the education. It sounds like the spare should be used as only as a last resort. To me, it is easier to add a can of "fix a flat," then pump up the tire with an electric tire pump that plugs into the cig lighter holder. That is what I did recently when I found a tire completely down on my Leggy. I immediately drove the car to a tire store to patch a nail hole. The tire repair guys hate to repair a tire containing fix a flat, as it makes a wet mess around their tire changer. However, I told them in advance about the fix a flat, and they were okay about it.

Ditto, new plugs and wires should correct the problem.

I think it is one of these, a bad tire, or bad tie rod, or ball joint. Suggest putting the car up on a lift to see if there is any "play" in the front suspension, also when up in the air, check front tires for any problems.

You don't list your car year or model, but if it is like my Leggy, if the fan is turned off, the system is turned off. To check A/C pressure, turn on A/C, max cold setting, with fan on high. I also use these same setting when adding a can of 134A refrigerant.

As mentioned by others, care needs to be taken to avoid stripping out the threads on an aluminum head motor. Unscrew a plug, and rescrew in a new plug on a straight line, with no torque applied at a side angle. Hand tighen only when first threading a new plug into the head. I use antisieze on the threads. It helps to lube the threads for easier threading into head, and also easier removal upon replacement in the years ahead.

Please let us know where the leak originated, and that you got it fixed. It is always good to get closure on a problem like yours.

Nipper......I agree with you, it sound like a siezed up A/C compressor. The clue, is writer says the squeal and smoke only occur when A/C system is turned on. R & R the compressor should fix the problem.

No expert, but since indicator light won't come on, it is pretty clear that you are not getting electrical power to the CD player. You would think that the radio and CD player would be on the same fuse, but maybe not. If the CD changer is in the trunk (my guess, since I don't own one) it may very well be wired separately with its own fuse. Check to see if the fuse is at the CD changer unit, or perhaps wired separately at the fuse block. Suggest checking all fuses at the fuse block, so see if any are "blown." My guess is that you have a blown fuse, then you have to find out why, if replacement fuse blows quickly.

If the motor is quitier, then good chance it is a lifter that is making the noise. My guess, is that after the 60 mile trip your wife takes, that the noise will be gone. Then, just the normal click/clack of the injectors opening and closing will be heard, as was mentioned in previous post. Let us know if the motor is quieter.

My vote is a leaking cooler line. The trany pan gasket has about 25 bolts holding it on, so doubtful that a leak the size you are describing could originate there. Besides, the trany plan is some distance back from the motor. It would be rather difficult for trany fluid to spray forward to get the engine compartment wet wit ATF

I have both a 98 and 99 Subie OB wagons. Both with the 2.5 engines. I bought both used. One has 112K miles, the other 161K miles. I haven't had any head gasket issues, but I have made it a point of changing the antifreeze every 2 years, and running new radiator caps. Telling you this will prolly put the HG hex on both of my cars. Someone who is in the know can look at your head gasket corner/edges, and tell you if they have been replaced, and not the originals. Replacement head gaskets are made better and more dependable then originals.

Agree, Fram standard line oil filters are really bad. I heard else where that there wasn't much to them. So, hearing that, I changed oil and filter, removed the Fram from my car, and made it a point to dissect the Fram oil filter. I cut it open to find very little inside the filter. I try very hard not to use Fram filters, but in a pinch, I use their top of the line, which has a little better reputation.

Yes, I would think so.

Subies offer great traction in all conditions, but they are not swamp buggies. They are not made for crossing water. I wouldn't drive through a creek that is any more than 3 inches deep. Then, I would drive very slowly to avoid splashing water on the electricals. If you want more of a swamp buggy, suggest buying a Jeep Wrangler with a 30" lift kit, and air intake snorkle that rises above the windshield.

Directions on side of Marvel bottle will tell you how to use it.

My same thought........you prolly have a sticky lifter. Yes, Marvel oil added to the crank case oil is a good product to fix the problem. Marvel is available at most any auto parts store.

I replaced the passanger door mirror on my wife's 98 Leggy OBW last summer. I tracked several down in wrecking yards, only not to have the needed tool to remove from the donor car. You do not remove the inner door panel. Instead, you remove the plastic triangular shaped cover on the inside of the car, that fits to the inside of the mirror. Just gently pry with a screw driver to get the plastic clips to release. Once removed, you will need to remove four philips head screws. One or two screws were super tight to remove. A regular philips head screw driver would not give enough leverage to loosen the screws. I had to use a 3/8 inch ratchet drive with philips tip. I had to push in really hard on the ratchet drive handle, while turning at the same time. My replacement mirror has electric motor adjustment, but is not heated. So, I did not hook up the separate connector for heat. If you have the little speaker, it is easy to move it out of the way. It is not a difficult job, except for philips screw removal. My replacement mirror from a yard cost $75.

I don't have the answer, however, this subject was discussed about a week or so back on this forum. You may want to look back through previous threads, read that thread and responses for advise. I do remember reading that fitting child safety seats is a compatibility issue with many cars, not just Subies.

I fully agree with Nipper. If over charged, it won't cool down well. I have seen it where the compressor won't turn on, because of an over charge condition. Let out some of the 134, and see if it cools better.

I had a 91 that looked just like both of yours. As mentioned, your new one has a nice interior for its age. My 91 had driver's seat rot, with the cover shredding off, and interior sponge padding flaking off. Nice your new one is same color as your old one. You can take the best of both cars to make one nice one. Have fun with your (new) Subie.