Rooster2

All cars with cap removed will start pushing coolant out the top of the rad, so seeing that is not telling you that anything is amiss. Suggest you replace the thermostat with an OEM unit from Subaru. That may well fix the problem, if not, then head gasket problem is next best guess. On your 2010 model, it is not known for a bad head gasket causing over heating by exhaust gas entering the cooling system. If head gasket goes bad on your model, it causes a coolant leak, that then causes over heating because the coolant level is low in the cooling system. Have you ever seen coolant leakage on your garage floor, or elsewhere where car is parked after driving it for a while??

I have a 98 Legacy. There is no dial to adjust heater /climate control temp, just a slide lever, with cold being on the far left, hot on the far right. Oh, I see, you are from NZ, maybe the heater control system is different from cars in the USA.

Agree totally with Fairtax4me post just above......... I had a similar problem with wipers on my 99 OBW, that got worse. The bushing plastic broke, so the wiper arm came off the wiper transmission arms. I tried using an after market bushing, but the bushing didn't fit right, and kept falling apart, causing the wiper arm to not move at all. I checked with the parts guy at local Subie dealership. They only sell the complete wiper transmission scissor arm mechanism, not individual replacement bushings. It seems once a bushing goes bad, as a component it is not something you can repair at all. I finally replaced the entire wiper transmission arm mechanism. I bought a replacement unit from Rock Auto that works just fine. Dorfman is the brand name, I think. My thought is that the bushing goes bad, as a result of the wiper blades freezing to the windshield glass with snow and ice in the winter. Once frozen, turning on the wipers can break the bushings, when the blades can't move. So, make sure your blades are freed up, when found frozen to the windshield to prevent bushing damage.

Recommend replacing the hoses. The rubber in the hoses gets hard and brittle after time, leading to the rubber splitting and leaking, and leading to a break down at a bad time. If this happens at night, your wife will likely be security oriented, and keep driving the car when it is over heating, and possibly ruining the engine. That is what my wife did a few years back. Cost me a new engine. My daughter did the same thing last year. Again, a new engine to replace the one burned up.

+1 on swap being the less expensive route. Have had excellent results working with yards listed on www.car-part.com. Highly recommend that route.

If replacing one shaft fixed the vibration, then just drive on. I wouldn't consider replacing other shafts, unless they create a problem. Since you bought used, any idea of number of miles on current timing belt?? If not, recommend replacing the belt, pulleys, and water pump. Better to do so, the alternative is a broken belt, and bent valves. Not a cheap repair.

Still sounds like a coil problem, but not with the coil itself. It has been a while since I have had to work with one. Maybe the wiring going TO the coil?? Check to see if the wiring, and connector are in good shape. Still sounds like half of the coil is not activating. BTW, nice town you live in............about twice per year, my wife and I visit family, who have a lake house near Bridgman. We like to go to the two family owned restaurants on the main drag of town. We like the one with the Greek theme best, but cannot remember the name. Nice people work there, great food. Do they still serve 4 eggs, when 2 eggs are ordered??

Disagree that cars assembled in Indiana have bad quality control. Not long ago, I took a tour through the Subaru assembly plant, and was impressed with the assembly process. Everything was so well organized, and it appeared to me that the workers really care about producing a quality product. The place is so clean, you could eat off the floor. My guess is the recall has to do with a component problem, not an assembly problem.

Suggest you look around at car-part.com. It is a national listing of wrecking yards, that will show yards in your area with Subie motors for sale that will fit your car. I have found it to be a great resource for parts.

Yes, that is another option.

Or............instead of trying to extend the life of the existing bearing, that probably came with the car, simply replace the pulley. They don't cost much, ez to install, and you will be certain that it won't give you any trouble.

Well the body sure looks good on the Forester, no rust to speak of. I wonder if the interior is nice and clean?? Have you talked with seller to know what is bad about the Forester's motor? Maybe it can be repaired? If cannot be repaired, then my thought would be to see what I could find in a used engine from a wrecking yard. For example, last year my daughter trashed the motor in her '07 Hyundai Sonata. I bought a yard motor for $900 with a guarantee, and had a guy install the motor for $700. It was actually the guy at the yard, who sold me the motor, who recommended the installer. The installer even picked up the motor from the yard, and took it to his shop, and returned the bad motor core to the yard for recycling. All I had to do was have the car towed to the installer's garage. I actually located the motor on line, called the yard, negotiated the price down a bit, and paid for the motor with a credit card. I never physically went to the yard at all. Yea, it was somewhat of a gamble, but lucked out, with what has turned out to be a very good motor. Also with all AWD Subarus, they need to be flat bed towed, not pulled along behind the wrecker, as it will damage the AWD system.

I am thinking all Legacy models 95-99, including Outbacks, which are Legacys.

Pretty sure Forester seats sit higher off the floor then Outback seats.

Not so sure that the 96 model was last of non-interference. I have heard some 96's were, but others near the end of the model run were not. I don't know how to tell the difference.

Wow, I have been on USMB prolly since 06, and never knew anything about silver, gold, bronze memberships to keep this forum afloat. I would have donated earlier, if the program was presented, and I was asked to join in.

I don't do face book. Is there another way to find out about USMB membership, or whatever it is called, and how much is asked to be donated??

Glad to have you join us on this forum. Everyone here is open to help you. Agree with the others, the 2.2 motor is much more reliable, when compared to the 2.5. The 2.2 motor is reliable up to 300K miles, and has the reputation of being bullet proof. Regarding the ticking, it is probably a lifter making the ticking noise. You may want to add some Rislone to the oil. In the past that has helped quiet down a motor, but it was not in a Subaru. Suggest the next time you change oil, add a pint of Rislone, and a little less oil. Run that oil change about a 100 miles, then change the oil and filter again. The Rislone contains a lot of detergent to help clean up a motor, and may help stop the ticking. I am guessing you may not know when the last time the timing belt was changed. If so, you may want to consider changing that belt, and associated idlers, and pulleys. The belt is meant to be changed every 60K miles. If not changed, the belt can break, causing valve damage, and that is expensive to repair. The bearings in the idlers and pulleys go bad if never changed, and can lock up, again causing valve damage.

What happened I could not access USMB for 2 days. Kept getting a screen saying that the account was suspended. Was USMB hacked??

I am not intimately knowledgeable regarding Subaru electric window winders, but have repaired a number of winders on other cars. All winders are pretty much similar. Sounds like your motor is still good, as you can hear it operating, but not raising the glass. Sounds like either the cable has broken, but that generally lets you lift the glass by hand with the door panel off. You say the glass cannot be lifted. Perhaps, the cable is loose, and jammed against the window track, preventing the glass to be lifted. Try reaching in around the glass to see if you can feel any broken cable, or anything else that is jamming the window glass. It is necessary to lift the glass up, and out of the way to be able to work with the winder mechanism. If need be, remove the door panel from the front passenger side, and with the glass in the up position, look around to see if you can figure out the mechanics of the glass lifter. Perhaps, raise and lower the passenger glass to see how it operates. this will give you knowledge, and a better idea of what is suppose to be happening on the door with the bad lifter. If you need a new winder, they are easily found at a wrecking yard, and easy to replace.

Not sure this will work on a Subie.............years back I replaced rear struts on a VW Jetta. I used a bottle jack on the bottom side to raise the strut in place to be bolted in place at the top hat. Without using the jack, it would have been impossible to push up on the strut unit by my self, hold the assembly in place, and affix the three nuts. The bottle jack worked like a charm.

I don't know the answer, but going to a car parts store on line should give you the answer. Just look for slave cylinder listed under several different Subarus models of about the same year as yours. If part number is the same, then you will learn about inter-change-ability.

I would take the car back to the alignment shop for a second opinion. Ask to have ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, and strut mount, checked to see if anything is loose. You may also want to check to see the lug nuts on your own to see if any of the road wheels are loose.

With engine turned off, can you shift through all gears?? Does anything feel unusual when doing so?? Agree with above, sounds like a gear shifter problem, not a clutch problem.

Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales... is another forum at USMB. This forum is dedicated to Subarus of the Justy era, and better able to serve you.