Rooster2

With a bad motor, maybe $500 to $800, maybe not that much. It is difficult to sell in that condition. You may be better off trading it in on a newer car at a dealer.

Yes, they may be in the Haynes manual, or with the Subie manual that came with the car. Otherwise, pull the bulb, it should have a number printed on the side of the bulb.

Suggest pulling the bulbs out of right side turn signal both front and rear. Check wiring at the bulb sockets for any kind of chafing. Also, look at the bottom of each bulb and the inside of the socket for any corrosion. You may want to check ground wires too. You may have some current bleeding onto other circuits to cause the unusual spedo instrument slightly lighting. I had something like this happening when I bought my 99 used. I finally replaced one of the bulbs because of corrosion/dirt on one of the bulb contact points. That fixed the problem.

"Heater never heated up" is another sign of a bad HG. With a bad HG, so much exhaust gas is being pumped into the cooling system that the heater core isn't able to extract heat from from the circulating exhaust gas, when it is designed to extract heat from liquid coolant.

It helps to have a "wobbler" at the end of the extension, just before the socket. There is just not a straight shot to line up on the bolt other wise. It is awkward, but the wobbler makes it reasonably easy to tighten up the bolt on the knock sensor.

My solution is to put the car up in the air on home use drive up ramps. That gives you enough space to crawl under the car safely. I leave the engine runing, then while wearing gloves, poke, push, and probe until I find where the shroud is loose. You can tell when you have found the vibrating spot, because once you push in against that spot, the vibrating noise will cease. Sometimes, the vibration is engine rpm sensitive, so if need be, I ask someone to sit in the driver's seat to slightly increase engine rpm to create the buzzing sound. Once vibration source is located, I hammer in a rather large bolt inside a shroud opening. The bolt simply takes up space to not allow the shroud to vibrate. It is a low tech solution for a low tech problem. I have done this on both of my Outbacks to cure the problem.

Yikes, a wild ride that you will remember the rest of your life. Glad you were not hurt. What is your next ride going to be?

So far so good. After the Trans X additive and Amsoil, the trany continues to shift like new, no hint of a hesitation. I am thinking that something "sticks" inside 99 and 00 ATs. Once freed up, the trany works great!

#2.........I would suggest using a solder connector. You slide the stripped wires into each end of what looks to be a metal tube, then using a lit match, it melts the metal tube (which is actually solder) around the connector, and the plastic covering around the solder tubing is actualy shrink tubing. I have been happy with the results on many projects.

Well, with that attitude, the service writer is about as helpful as a headache. If I were you, I wouldn't waste my time talking with that guy again. Here is a reprint of what I posted earlier to fix the hesitation problem of getting my car to engage into "D"rive from "R"everse. Perhaps this will help your trany, it can't hurt it. It was absolutely incredible how this fixed my trany about a week ago: "My magical exixer was to pull the trany drain plug. This drained about 4 quarts and one pint of ATF that was changed last Summer. I replaced with Amsoil synthetic ATF, and a can of Trans-X AT slip-stop & leak fix. The Trans-X can label says that their product swells seals, so I thought that might help. Well whatever..........the Amsoil and Trans-X fixed the trany problem after about 10 minutes of driving. Now, when changing gears from Reverse to Drive, the annoying sometimes 5 to 10 second delay to actually complete the shift into Drive is completely gone. Now, the trany promptly shifts from R to D with no hesitation like it is a new transmission. I completed this work only about 24 hours ago, so it will be interesting in the days ahead to see if the fix is truly a fix".

Hmmm.....Are you really asking if anyone has heard of this product, or is this a back door approach for a commerical message?

Before joining this forum, I had just tuned up my 99 with Bosch Platinum plugs and Bosch ignition wires. The car still runs just fine 10K miles later. After joining this forum, I keep reading advise here about using only Subaru OEM wires and NGK plugs. The ignition wires that I would stay avoid are the chain store "house brand" wires.

I am thinking you are really describing the belt tensioner pully. If so, there is no way to lubricate the bearing, as it is a sealed unit. When my tensioner started making noise, I just replaced it.

Glad to hear that you have cold air. Saw that you added some sealer......suggest you go easy on that stuff. A little is okay, add much more, and it can seal "plug up" the condenser. Once that happens, the condenser needs to be replaced. BTDT

My same thoughts about the $2K max. It is difficult to pay more, because the car has 200K on the odo, the engine some less.

I had the same thought, that something broke inside the front diff, then got wedged inside the case against the housing. Something had to give, so the pressure against the case cracked it. A few years back my daughter's Jeep Wrangler did something similiar. It not only cracked the front diff case, but knocked a hole in it. My advise is to check a wrecking yard for a replacement pretty quick. JB Weld may hold for a little while, but what's prolly broken inside the front diff will only get worse. Another thought, is that maybe you ran over something solid, (like a rock) that cracked the bottom of your case. Still.......try the JB Weld, you have nothing to loose. Replace the gear lube, and see if that quiets the gears down. Just be sure to super clean the area before applying JB Weld. The cleaner the surface, the better JB Weld holds. You could just get lucky with a quick cheap fix.

After reading this thread and resulting posts, I decided to buy a trany filter for my 99 Leggy OBW w/AT. I went to Auto Zone, and picked one up for about $24. It is their house brand called "Deutsch." I made sure it is the filter made specifically for the Subbie trany, and it is. Yea, I know that a lot of people don't like AZ, but their store is near where I live, and the Subbie dealer is far away. Less shopping time, and less money spent on gas won out.

I just hope she didn't cook the engine, driving it mile after mile when it was over heating.

Certainly looked clean enough. I agree with Nipper, for a 2005 model to have over 100K miles on the odo, it must have been a salesman's car. So, prolly most of the miles are highway miles, and that is good. I am surprised that the seller is offering a 7 year 100K power train warranty. I don't think that I have ever seen a car warranted beyond 200K miles. Suggest checking several car pricing books like Kelly, Edmunds, etc to see what retail pricing is on the car. Since it has over 100K miles, there should be a substantial reduction in price, because of the high milage. If you like what you see on line, check it out in person. See how it drives. Good luck, it may well be a very nice car.

It is that little pesky parking rocker type switch that is located on the top of the steering column just behind the steering wheel. I never use mine to know exactly what it is, or what it is suppose to be used for. It is prolly some sort of European or Japanese marketplace designed for special lighting. Every once in a while, someone posts here saying they can't turn off exterior lights, so they are pulling off their battery cable at night to keep from running the battery down. Locate, and flip the switch to see if your lights will turn off. Hope this advise works!

Thanks for the advise. I dropped the trany pan on a 91 Leggie, when I had that car. I agree with you. It was simply a fine mesh screen wire that hadn't trapped hardly anything in 100K+ miles. If Subaru still uses the screen, then I won't bother with it. My car has the external AT filter that looks just like the oil filter. It appears to be the original with 160 K miles on it. Maybe, I should replace that one?

How many trany filters does it have? I know there is an external spin on filter, is there also an internal filter under the pan? I am reluctant to drop the pan just to look. I have also heard dropping the pan encourgages leaks upon reassembly. Any advise?? I did a "search," but couldn't find answers. Thanks for any help

My magical exixer was to pull the trany drain plug. This drained about 4 quarts and one pint of ATF that was changed last Summer. I replaced with Amsoil synthetic ATF, and a can of Trans-X AT slip-stop & leak fix. The Trans-X can label says that their product swells seals, so I thought that might help. Well whatever..........the Amsoil and Trans-X fixed the trany problem after about 10 minutes of driving. Now, when changing gears from Reverse to Drive, the annoying sometimes 5 to 10 second delay to actually complete the shift into Drive is completely gone. Now, the trany promptly shifts from R to D with no hesitation like it is a new transmission. I completed this work only about 24 hours ago, so it will be interesting in the days ahead to see if the fix is truly a fix.

I have a 99 Leggie OBW that I posted today as "FIXED!! Trany delayed forward engagement." I posted the original tranny problem post about 10 days ago. Possibly your tranny problem is experiencing the same as mine had. Suggest reading my earlier post with responses, and the easy solution that I came up with. You are wise in looking at different options beyond the dealer's $1800 for repairs.

I posted a couple of weeks back about owning a 99 Leggie OBW with AT trouble. It had the cursed delayed forward engagement. I drained the ATF, and refilled with Amsoil synthetic ATF, and a can of Trans-X AT slip-stop & leak fix. After 10 minutes of driving the car, the problem was fixed. I don't know if the Amsoil or the Trans-X, or the combination of both, but whatever, the problem is gone. The Trans-X is advertised to swell seals. The car now shifts promptly into Drive after shifting from Reverse when stopped. Before, I had to wait as long as 5 to 10 seconds for the car to shift into Drive mode, while slightly revving the engine. What a PITA that was. My wife was on my back big time to sell the car. I feel like I dodged buying a wy trany, if I kept the car...... Life is good. I am happy!! Thanks to all, who offered advise!