Rooster2

Yea, shame on me for being a wise guy. With business slow, and tax season upon us, extra bucks are not what I have these days. So the frustration pours out of me these days. Still, I am amazed that people would spend upwards of $4500 on a new racing AT. I keep thinking that a racing manual 5 or 6 speed would be the usual hot set up, so there would not be much demand for a racing AT!

If the ATF was simply drained and replaced, then the fluid was only about half changed. The remaining half stays inside the torque converter, and won't drain out. If you are a "do it your selfer," on car repairs, it is very easy to change the ATF yourself. Simply drive the car up a pair of car ramps, slide under the car and remove the drain plug from the transmission. The plug is exactly like the drain plug used to change the oil. Add replacement ATF with a funnel through the tube that contains the ATF dip stick. Prolly best to have the correct amout of ATF in your trany. Too much ATF can cause some internal fluid foaming problems. Try the above see if this helps your trany to shift correctly.

You may also consider checking the water level inside the battery, if it has the cap covers that can be pried off. Also, clean the battery terminals. Corrosion can build up causing charging problems.

I replaced the knock sensor on my 98 last summer. It looked exactly like the one pictured in this thread. It is not difficult to install, just kind of awkward. On a 2.5 motor, using a 3/8" drive, use a wobbler, as you can't get a straight down alignment on the bolt head. Something is in the way that prevents the straight shot. On replacement, just snug up the bolt. Don't really tighten the bolt down, as the pressure will crack the plastic circular collar. I bought mine at Autozone, as the dealer is some distance away. The AZ unit works just fine, no more CEL.

Agree with what others have written. Something is wrong with that corner of the car. Put the car up on a lift, using the type of lift that lifts the car's under carriage. Visually observe the wheel alignment to see if the tire/wheel looks like it is aligned vertically straight up and down, and not tilting to one side or the other. Also, grab the road wheel to see if there is any loose suspension movement, when pulling it in and out. Look to see if there is any oil coating the outside of the strut. That would indicate a leaking strut. Also, when the car is on the ground, push up and down on that corner of the car to see if the strut provides good shock resistance, or is simply acting like a cheap bug sprayer unit. Try all of the above, but not at Walmart. Walmart hires the dumbest guys to work their auto shop, so don't expect them to be any help in solving your problem.

I just knew there was something out there to spend 4500 bucks on that has been burning a hole in my pocket.

I have put about 10K miles on my EJ25 with no problems using Bosch wires and platinum plugs. That was prior to joining USMB, where I keep reading to use Subie wires and NGK plugs. To do it over again, I prolly would use the recommended Subie wires and NGK plugs, only because it is so highly recommended.

The spark plugs are located on the sides of the motor, making them a little difficult to change. Just follow the spark plug wires from the coil pack located on the front top of the motor to the plugs. If you are wanting to change the plugs, it is prolly a good idea to change the plug wires too.

I have had good success using a spray bottle of Windex to clean around sticky climate control buttons and the temp slider. I used a paper towell to wipe up the Windex. If the drink holder is sticky, it can be removed and cleaned by removing two screws just behind the facing. Again Windex did a good job of cleaning up sticky soda residue.

Gee, this operation has more drama and stress then a heart transplant show on TV. I hope all goes well. Keep us posted on patient recovery! I have driven from Denver to the "Summit" many times to go skiing, so I know all about going up and down the hills encountering heavy snow, ice, and blizzard conditions. Trailering your car to Denver was a wise move. Driving four and a half hours in a car with a bad motor in those conditions would have been way too stressful, and maybe not successful.

Even though your battery is just a month old, it may be low on water. Take care in prying off the battery caps to check the water level. (It is easy to splash battery acid on your clothes. My jeans with holes can attest to that.) I have purchased batteries in the past that have been low on water when new. I never bothered to check their water level, thinking if new, the battery must be full of water. That is not necessarily so. It is worth looking into.

that is a lot of 66666 on the odo. Isn't the 666 thing some sort of devilish symbol. LOL Seriously, that is a very nice car that you have. I can tell that you have taken good care of her.

Eric, From your vivid description, it sounds like your Subie is on its last legs, and not long for this world. With all its problems, wants, and needs, it might be wiser to find buy another car (Subie of course) and use your existing car as a parts car.

If the sound is a slight buzzing ringing sound, it is prolly because the metal shroud around the exhaust pipe under the car has become loose. That has happened on both my 98 and 99 Leggy OBWs. It is nothing to be concerned about; it just becomes annoying to listen to. I quieted the noise by driving the car up on ramps, crawled under the car, then had someone hold the gas pedal down to precisely the engine rpm that caused the shroud to buzz. Using a screw driver, I pressed it against the shroud until I got the noise to stop. That told me where the shroud was loose. To repair, I got a bolt, using a hammar, I drove the bolt in like a wedge to prevent the loose shroud from vibrating. It worked great. No more shroud noise for the past couple of years.

You are just asking for trouble using a head in that "pit"iful shape. I don't know if it can be reworked, but suggest returning the head to the machine shop to see what the shop manager has to say.

hmmmmmm....I have encountered cars in wrecking yards that surely must have been in better condition then what you found the 96 to be. Keep looking there is a nice Subie out there just waiting for you to find it at the right price. Good Luck!

Congrats................on being able to "cruise" on through the day.

All the car parts stores sell after market fog and driving lights. Use a ruler to measure the bumper size opening for the lights to get an idea of what size to shop for. You will have to figure out how to mount the lights in the holes. Anything inside the hole to bolt to?

Everything, (including everything remotely) associated with the suspension.

Nipper........a good point! What exactly is the difference between a phase 1 and phase II motors, particularily relating to head and HG design?

Not to insult you or your car, but a car that is 18 years old is nearing the end of its life. It just does not make sense to put much of a dollar investment into an old car. Pouring in a magic bottle of additive to address torque bind is a wise move in my opinion. That is what I would have done. Glad to hear that it helped.

How I heard the story! I have only seen a picture and write up (never replaced a head gasket myself),the writer pointed out that the head gasket becomes defective at a point directly between the cylinders, mostly on the driver's side. The article pointed out that the 2.5 Gen 1 engine block cylinder wall between the pistons was designed too thin. Over time and with miles, the thin HG at that spot cannot withstand the strong exhaust gas pressure, and will eventually weaken, allowing exhaust gas to enter the cooling system. Hence the problem. There are a lot of people on this forum that are a lot smarter then me, and with a lot more "hands on" repair experience regarding the HG problem. I am certain that they can they can explain this in greater detail then me. Of note........about 3 years ago, when I purchased my 98 Legy OBW. It was only after I had owned it for a few months, that I went to a Subie Dealer for parts. I casually spoke with the Service Manager and asked about him about the 2.5 Gen 1 motors blowing head gaskets, as I had heard some industry street chatter about this being a problem. (This was before I joined this forum to read a lot about it.) The Service Manager would not acknowledge that Subarus have an HG problem. In retrospect, I now think that is very odd, considering how much is written about the problem on an ongoing basis.

Auto Zone sells remotes. I don't know cost or availability for the Forester.