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Rooster2
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Everything posted by Rooster2
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If you are getting only 12.1 V output, your alternator is definitely shot. I have gone the AZ and Advance Auto as a source of replacement alternators. Sure, I know they won't last as long as a Subaru OEM, but the parts stores are so much closer to home then the dealer, and a lot easier to drive to. After experienceing all of which the original poster has endured, I surmise that it is either a bad alternator or battery, and get enough warning time to go to the auto stores for a free electrical charging test. If it turns out to be a bad alternator, I get a decent price on one of their rebuilds, or one free of charge under the store's life time guarantee program. Changing out an alternator takes me about a half an hour. That is a whole lot of time and money saved taking this approach, compared to taking the car to the dealer, or even just purchasing the alternator there.
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Could just be a bad tank of gasoline (petrol) from your last fill up. Suggest adding a bottle of "dry gas" product to your fuel tank. Its an additive sold by various manufacturers to remove water from the fuel. Had it been raining recently before your last fill up? If so, water can leak into your filling station's storage tank if their fill up seal is bad.
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My 99 Legy OBW has the lazy A/T. It has been slow to switch gears to go the opposite direction, that is R to D, and D to R. Sometimes, it would take 3 to 4 seconds to switch gears. That is a real PITA, when another driver is wanting you to get out of their way. My fix is that I added a bottle of Lucas Trany Fix. The product is advertised to fix trany seal leaks, and promote shifting with less slippage. After running with the product now for three days, I can tell that it has really helped reduce the lag time in switching gears from R to D, and D to R. It shifts normally now. I do notice that forward gear change shifts are a little more positive, but not harsh. Acceleration seems more brisk, so maybe there is slightly less trany slippage. I am not much for cures from a bottle, but I think this one really helps. BTW, when adding the Lucas product, a funnel with a long stem is needed. The additive looks like ATF thick colored STP. It took about 15 minutes to get the thick product to flow through the funnel into the trany. I had drained a like amount of ATF from the trany before adding the Lucas. This is the best $10 that I have spent on the car.
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I agree, wrecking yards cannot legally sell used cats. However, I frequented a wrecking yard to the point that I got to know the guys who do the dismanteling. When the boss wasn't looking, one of the guys torched off a cat for me. I gave the guy $10 under the table for his work, and got the hell out of the yard in a hurry before anyone spotted what we were up to. Sometimes you just get lucky and fortunate.
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If you have a family owned muffler shop, not a national chain shop, you should be able to buy a permanent repair for under $50. They will be able to torch off the rusted out part, and weld in a replacement pipe. Job should not take more than 15 minutes. The national chain shops are only trained to replace the entire exhaust system at sizeable cost. If you are in the North as I am, crawling around under a car in freezing weather is not what I want to do this time of year.
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They would be fools to do so! Because, the domestic auto makers pay heavily for their adveritisements. At least,last time I looked at that journal. I am sure that all car rags face the same problem when evaluating vehicles they test. It has to be difficult for them to write negative press against car manufacturers that advertise with them. I would hate to be the car rag's ad salesman calling on a manufacturer to increase ad space, after the magazine's last edition just lambasted the manufacturer's latest offering. The car manufacturer would be so pissed, they would tell me where to go! BTW, C & D had a full page Subie OB ad on the page proceeding the STI article. Makes me wonder if car manufacturer's ad budget buys "car test evaluations" in car rags. Hmmmm.
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I just received the latest edition of Car & Driver Magazine (Feb 08). The Highs: Neo-rally-car performance, livable ride, a practical hatchback, packed in flaring fenders. The Lows: Control-button overload, frequent tank-ups, pricy and despised by insurers. The Verdict: The original juvenive deliquent gets cleaned up for dinner with parents. The full article is worth a read, get your at a news stand.
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I am not familiar with the power device that you are using, but when you say "No sure how to get rid of the air without sending it all through the brake system," I too would be worried about adding air to the brake lines. This doesn't sound like a devise that I would want to use. I have posted a couple of times in the past few weeks about using a simple "one man bleeder" unit. It is low tech, inexpensive, and super simple to use. I suggest using one of those.
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I left it parked with a half tank at the airport for 5 days. Temperatures were around 30F the whole time I was gone. I wonder if you have some water condensation in the gas tank, or may have gotten some bad gas contaminated with water. Suggest you add a can of "dry gas" product to the gas tank. Maybe this will help, certainly couldn't hurt. Also, like you say, it can use a set of plug wires with 85K miles on the odo.
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From what I have read, the HG problem presents itself as exhaust gas entering the cooling system. The bubbles you see is actually exhaust gas that should have gone out the tail pipe. The exhaust gas heat and pressure can actually get so hot that the radiator will start leaking. That is what happened on my car when wife was driving it. I have no idea how long she drove it when over heating. Just continue to keep a close eye on the temperature guage.
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You got that right, I have been there, done that. I wish Subaru would have made access holes through the inner fender well directly in front of the spark plugs. So, with the front road wheels removed, there would be direct access to the spark plug. My Subies are 98 and 99 models. Maybe Subie has wised up, do the newer models have direct access through the fender wells?
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does anyone know the order in which to bleed the brakes? I usually start from closest to brake cylinder and go out-- LF, RF, FR, RR Thanks. Hmmm........... I have heard just the opposite on brake bleeding order, that is, starting first with the wheel the farthest from the master cylinder, and proceeding to the wheel closest to the MC. So with that thought, that would mean, RR, LR, RF, LF. Just my 2 cents worth, see what other opinions are offered.