Rooster2

Thanks for all the info about sensors. Prolly more trouble and cost then it is worth to get sensor(s) replaced. Just better to keep an eye on tires to visually see when a tire looks low on air. Car is going to need new tires in near future, will see what tire store says about the sensors. Thanks to all for your replies.

Just bought an 09 Forester. The tire pressure dash light is on. I pumped up the tires to spec, including the spare, but light fails to go out. How should I proceed to fix?

Thanks idosubaru for advise...............much appreciated Rooster2

Daughter just bought an 09 Forester in good shape. What are problem areas on that year Forester that I should become aware of, or at least keep an eye on?

Agree with others, nothing to be gained by going to a less restrictive muffler, except it will be louder. I found out when I tried a glass pack muffler.

Same thought.......battery is going south. You may want to clean off battery terminals to see if that helps. Also, attach battery jumper cables from another car, then try to start. If starts right up with no hesitation, then pretty good indication that the battery is bad.

Getting back to fixing my p/s pump problem. Life has gotten in the way to fix this project. I don't see a leak, so it must be a mechanical problem. I checked you tube, all I see is how to r&r all the seals to fix leaks, not anything on how to repair the mechanical action of the pump. How much is a new genuine Subaru pump? Any way to tell if a pump from a yard is genuine? Thanks for any advise. Rooster2

reservoir is on top of the pump. Good advise on checking for an air leak. had a buddy install the pump. I will ask him about the oring. Thanks!

turned steering wheel stop to stop multiple times to bleed out air. Have been driving car for about 10 days now, steering not getting any better. Belt is tight.

Replaced P/S pump with a rebuilt unit from Rock Auto. Steering is better, but in a cool morning, the steering fails to feel like power steering, Just plain hard to steer. My question, is how to determine if it is the pump or rack that is the problem. Thanks for any advise.

I have a 99 Subie Outback, same car as yours. Been running 215 X 70 X 15 tires for some time with no rub issue. Car definitely feels taller, and ride seems better.

With caliper pulled off, check to see if the slide pins move easily. If not, squirt PB blaster into the pin assembly, wait a bit, then try to move the frozen slide pin.

I have had a problem like this in the past. It turned out the blower motor was still good. The real problem is that leaves, dirt and crap, drops down from the couling to jam up the motor from rotating. I cleaned out the accumulated crap, and the blower motor began working just fine.

I have been buying more and more parts form Rockauto.com. Quality is good, so is pricing. I generally buy their mid priced offerings, not the cheapest, or most expensive. Rock Auto delivers quickly, and if a return is necessary, they will send you a Fed ex return label on line that discounts cost of return at the Fed ex store.

My 2.2 1995 Subie motor in my 98 Outback jumped timing. I was surprised this happened as entire timing belt kit changed in summer of 2019. Found the source of the problem to be threads in the block pulled out upon removal of " loose pulley" next to tension-er. I had never heard of this before. Fixed the problem using a helia-coil. Thank God the 95 Subie motor is non interference, or things could have been a lot worse. Anyone else have this happen?

I have tried several kits with about the same good result. One thing I added was using a spray rattle can of clear paint with UV protection. Keeping UV at bay keeps the lenses from clouding over again.

I have used the "universal fit," hoses the ones with the coily spring inside the hose, where you can bend it into any shape you want. They seem to work okay, but you need to really tighten down on the clamp. Also, check weeks later that the hose is tight, may need to tighten up some more. I am using one of these on my 99 Legacy Outback. Works just fine, but I have two hose clamps to make sure it stays tight.

Like you, I have a 99 Outback. I bought it back in 06, with 148K on the odometer. I now have 256K on the odometer, and she still runs strong. I put on KYB struts at around 160K miles. I did not replace the springs, and have not regretted it. The KYBs run great, and last a long time. The probable original springs still seem good as new. 99 Outbacks have an inherent problem with the transmission, in that it will develop a delayed forward engagement from park. The problem is that Subaru went to a revised tranny in 99, and a valve unit fails to operate properly. It can be corrected with a tranny additive. If your car has, or develops this problem, do a google search for "Subaru, delayed tranny forward engagement." I started the topic back in 2008, and it has helped many Subarus.

Any seats from any Legacy, including outback, will interchange within the years 1995 and 1999. I have both a 98 and 99 Outback, and have swapped seats in and out. It is a pretty easy job. Just be careful that you don't scrape the bottom mounting brackets on the paint, when moving a seat in or out.

I have bought and used the "do it yourself" rust proofing kits. They are rattle spray cans. Some cans for inside door application, some for metal exposed to the elements. They work well in my opinion. Just make sure the metal is clean and dry before spraying on outside metal. It has been a long time, since I have bought one of those kits. I don't know if they are even sold anymore. Worth checking out. Cost is cheap.

Mitchy, I have been hammering in sheet metal screws, bolts, what ever I could find to hammer in to stop the shroud rattle around the exhaust for years. I have never used nails. Nothing has ever fallen out that I can ever tell. It is a red neck fix I know, but a good one in my opinion. Sometimes the shroud can easily be removed, so I do that to fix the noise problem. The shrouds are there to protect against starting a grass fire, should you ever park in tall dry grass. I never park in high grass, so no problem.

Just this Fall, I did an oil change job. I bought an oil pan bolt with a fiber washer from Advance Auto parts. So far so good, on not leaking, but it does need to be tightened really well. I never could get the Subaru crush washer to work more then once without a small leak. I will keep a check on the fiber washer to see if it leaks or not.

Suggest you go to https://www.carparts.com They have a call in assist land line, and also a chat service. Someone there will be able to tell you what years of inter-changeability 4 eat trans will fit your car.