Rooster2

I just changed sparkplugs on my 99 OBW, so I may have some advise. If you broke the porcelain part off the sparkplug, you should be able to reach in with an angle head needle nose pliers. I assume if on the driver's side, you have removerd the car battery for access, or removed on the passenger side, the air intake box and large plastic tubing to gain access. With porcelain part removed, the metal base can be removed with an ordinary sparkplug socket attached to a very short extension, attached to a drive handle.

Possible to check part number on each tranny to see if they are the same?? If not the same, still might interchange.

Remove caliper bottom bolt, so caliper can be rotated upward, and away from the rotor. Piston compresses in nicely with a C-clamp. Suggesting using grease to lube up the slide pins, if you are replacing the brake pads.

I have a 98 OBW Limited with the heated mirrors. So, thinking all 97-99 Limited models have the heated mirrors. Maybe you can find one in a yard, and snag the wiring as well. Also, a dash mounted heated mirror switch is part of the package.

Have you posted your needs on the USMB forum board "Subaru Stuff Wanted??" You might find something there.

If by saying "actuator" you mean the push button climate control unit, then I may be of help. I wrote this thread back in September of 13. Snce then, I have replaced the actuator on both my 98 and 99 OBWs. They are the same unit. The dash does not need to be removed to replace the actuator. Just remove the plastic trim pieces around the actuator. The actuator is held in with screws at all four corners. Easy enough to remove. The temp slide cable connector is somewhat difficult to remove, but can be done at the actuator with a lot of patience, but have heard that it is easier to remove at the lower end. Two electrical connectors are easy to remove. I have seen replacement units sold on e-bay, or available at a wrecking yard. A yard is where I got mine. Burnt out light bulbs can be replaced. Somewhare on this forum, someone described how to do that.

In a past similar situation, I elected to rent a car for that long a trip. It was worth the peace of mind, that the rental would get me there and back without a break down, my car not so sure. Car rentals charge for number of days rented with unlimited millage. Rental deals rates available, when you check rental prices on line. With 210K miles on your daughter's Impreza, IMO, a rental seems like a better option. It is far better to have your own car insurance cover a rental, as it is expensive to buy then the insurance from a rental company.

Well with this description, it is evident that you have bad head gaskets. Proof is in the bubbles in the rad over flow container. With a new radiator, I doubt there is a blockage there, unless you terribly over dosed the cooling system with head gasket additive to the cooling system. The over dose can also plug up your heater core, so heat output is reduced. Your description of the heater not throwing heat consistently is another sign that the bad head gasket is permitting exhaust gas to be pumped into the cooling system. Yea, I have heard of removing the thermostat to reduce over heating. Guess that can work for a while, but in the long run, if it results in more over heating, the life of your motor will be less. Replacing the head gaskets is what needs to be done.

I have never read, or heard of anyone having success using quick fix head gasket pour in products. They just don't work on Subarus, like they can work on a Chevy or Ford. I don't think using wine vinegar as a radiator "boil out," will do much of anything. Years back, I had a radiator shop boil out my much neglected radiator. Don't know how, or what process they used, but by what you could smell in the work area, the strong chemicals they used didn't smell anything like vinegar. All the above advise responses from others are absolutely correct. If your over heating problem happens with the temp gauge needle quickly moving from normal to HOT in a hurry, and you see bubbles in the radiator over flow container, when getting hot, and engine is at idle, then it is highly likely that you have a blown head gasket causing the over heating problem. This is likely on 96-99 models with the 2.5 motor. However, it can happen on the 90-95 models with the 2.2 motor, but not nearly as likely. From personal experience, I had a 1991 Leggie with the 2.2 motor that blew a head gasket.

Fuser designed front end looks like Toyota influence. Wonder if it is of any value, or simply a styling exercise. Revised headlight treatment is an improvement. Still looks like a Forester, which is good.

Be sure that the negative terminal is on tight. Just today, I found the neg terminal on wife's 98 OBW to be loose. The nut was as tight as possible, but I could easily rotate the cable by hand. I fixed by using a small hose clamp. I broke off the circular part, then inserted as a shim, then tightened the nut back down. Now no cable movement. It was either fix this way, or cut off terminal, and hook up a new one.

Sound reasoning. It is a 95, 2.2 motor, so it is non interference. Good thing is.........if Tbelt broke, the valves will not be damaged.

When all repairs are made, I suggest spraying the terminals with white lithium grease from a spray can. The grease helps to reduce corrosion build up.

The battery should not be moving around. There should be a metal bracket that fits over the battery, with two rods. Each rod extends down the sides of the battery, and hooks onto a slot on the side of the battery tray. When in place, your battery is tightly secured. If yours is missing, I have seen replacements at Wal-Mart auto section. Don't cost much. If your battery cable wire terminal is bad, you can buy replacement cable terminal that slides down over the battery post, then cut off the old cable connector, then take the bare, and wire inserted and tightened down to the new terminal. All the above is easy to do and inexpensive.

One time I had crazy instrument panel readings, only to find out that one of the battery cells was bad. Car would start and run, but not well. Have each battery cell tested is my recommendation.

I have a 99 OB, and it does have the low fuel light.

The slots in the road wheels are generally large enough, so you can look through to see if the rotor is rusty looking, or bright shiney steel with grind marks This will give you a quick first indicator what you are dealing with.

Like TholL, my 98 OB window switch went bad on the driver's window. Like yours, the spring return went bad. I snagged one from a local pick and pull for about $30. Pretty easy to install.

About 5 years ago, I bought a '95, 2.2 motor with about 150K on the odo for $400. I knew the guys at the yard, and knew they had a good reputation of not selling junk. I was fortunate to get a good motor, that runs well even to this day. Update this summer, when I had a V-6 motor installed into a Hyundai Sonata for $700. It was a small one man shop with 2 young helpers in a down scale neighborhood. Having a motor installed at a large shop in an upscale part of town will cost substantially more. With a Subie motor installed to an auto transmission, it is very important that the installer knows how to "seat" the engine properly to the tranny. Failure to do it correctly results in a damaged tranny.

What size tires and wheels does your car have on right now??

If you are selling print up two bill of sales with the words AS IS in big capital bold letters, leave the price blank and fill it in when you accept the cash. Have a area on both bill of sales for both of you to sign. Give one copy to the other person and you keep the other one. Agree 100% on your advise jp98, as copied above. I do the same thing, so there is no confusion about what conditions as to what is being sold, and what is being bought. When I sell a car for someone, I make sure it is a reasonably good car, and not junk that someone will be quickly disappointed that they bought it. A satisfyed customer makes for a satisfyed deal.

On my 99 OBW, which is the same body style as your 97 Outback, I over sized the tires. Went from a 205X70X15 to a 215X70X15. That add a good inch plus of lift with no tire rubbing, and no messing around with springs, or struts, or spacers.

I live on a corner lot next to a major city street, and have a good side yard to display cars for sale. Over the years, as a car agent, I have sold a lot of cars for friends, and from people who have heard that I sell cars. Often, I will list the car on Craig's list. My commission is $400 per sale, when I sell the car. Always sell a car for cash only. If I trust the people, we close the deal in my home living room. If I have any doubts about the seller, then I have them meet at my bank, where an armed guard is stationed. I have never had any trouble in any sales transition. I always ride with someone on a test drive to answer any questions, and to keep a mild sales pitch going in conversation. I would not trust someone driving alone, even if I had their driver's license. You just have to use your head in dealing with people that you don't know. I have had a number of wierd people show up to look at a car. If you act strong, and have convictions, they will sense that, and leave quietly. Just my story, and humble opinions.

Is there a utube video, or write up that describes how to replace the contacts. It is something I would like to learn, and remember, and be helpful to know, when my starter goes bad.

Did PO change the pullys and idlers along with a new TB?? If a bearing locks up in one of those, then the timing belt would lock up as well. Kits on ebay at a reasonable price, should you want to replace them.