Rooster2

Welcome to USMB. Lots of good people here to help keep your Subie running strong. The 2.2 motor in your 90 model is one of the most bullet proof motors ever made. Runs forever with proper oil changes. Is very unlikely to have head gasket issues. With a 25 year old car, it may or may not have had regular antifreeze changes to the cooling system. Don't know where San Luis Obispo is located to know if antifreeze is used where you live. Still, if antifreeze is not used where you live, then some rust proofing must be added to the cooling system to prevent oxidation build up in the radiator. Take off the radiator cap, and see if you can observe any build up of crud in the radiator. If so, you may need to have the radiator cleaned out, or simply buy a new radiator. There is also a potential that you may need a new thermostat, if it is old, and not opening and closing properly. If so, buy a good thermostat, not a cheapie one with a small spring.

Is the Walmart battery installed?? How old was the existing battery that was tested bad, then tested good?? Is there any corrosion that you can see at the battery terminals?? If the Walmart battery has not been installed, then install it, to see if the car starts up properly.

I have a 99 Leggie Outback wagon. Recently replaced the A/C belt you described. I have never had any trouble tightening the tensioner. It is a 2 bolt arrangement. Long vertical bolt to create proper belt tightening, the second bolt on the tensioner to "lock in " the tension. No washers used. Send a photo of what yours looks like, if you have not already figured it out.

Don't know the answers to work arounds, but swapping in a 1995 2.2 to where a 2.5 once lived can't be difficult. That is exactly the swap in I had done at a shop using a '95, 2.2. No need to replace the tranny.

I had that swap done on my 98 OBW, but never noticed anything about the canister. I do know there are a couple of vacuum lines that are plugged up, and formerly went to something in a previous life. I am thinking those lines went to a canister.

As mentioned, valve cover gasket most likely where it leaks oil. timing belt most likely needs changed. If it breaks, then the valves get bent, and expensive work ensues. When engine is warm look for air bubbles in the over flow radiator tank. That is a good indicator of head gasket trouble. It is actually the gasoline metal fill pipe that rusts out. Pull off the road wheel, remove the plastic cover over the fill pipe to see how much rust has gathered on the fill pipe. I have a 98 Leggie, so have had to address all the above problem areas. Otherwise, Subarus are great cars. Well made, and last a long time.

Thinking same thing....the radiator is plugged up. Does the car's heater work really well...as in pumping out really hot air. If not, then it is possible that the previous owner dumped a bunch of radiator stop leak in the system. Result can be blocked radiator, and blocked heater rad unit. Previous owner may have had a head gasket leak, so dumped something in the cooling system to see if that would help. Things to think about.

I don't ever remember removing the caliper bracket when doing a pads only job on my 91 Leggie. It had the same brakes as your 93. It has been a long time since I have owned that car. Seemed like I just rotated caliper up, used a C clamp to push back the piston, installed new pads, l lubed lower pins, tightened everything up, and was done. I can't remember doing anything to slide pin # 8. I think I used anti-seize as a pin lube, but it is prolly better to use a heavier lube, like white lithium grease.

Wouldn't be surprised to learn that the starter had been replaced since car was new. Tech prolly finger tightened the nut, but then later forgot to tightened the nut properly with a wrench. Over time, the nut loosened up, and backed off, and that is the condition you found it in.

No, I don't think so. Holes in the filler neck is an emissions issue, associated with code P0440. Weird idle source is prolly else where. Like a vacuum leak some where. When was motor last tuned up with new spark plugs and wires?? When pulling codes, any additional codes present that you may have missed??

Another variation..........I have a 98 OBW Limited, with what appears to be a small spoiler built into the top of the hatch. Looks like it is designed to keep rain water from running down the hatch glass, or maybe it is just there to look good. I also have a 99 OBW, that is not the Limited model. It does not have the small spoiler. Just small variations. I think if you are at a yard, and you see a hatch that looks exactly like yours from a 95-99, then it will fit your car.

Recommend you replace the filler neck. If it is rusted anything like what I replaced on my 99 OBW, then you will need to replace it. A rusty fill pipe surely has holes in it, which prevents the fuel system from pulling it's necessary vacuum. Compromised vacuum is what sets off the p0440 code. Dorman brand filler necks are widely available from on line parts houses. Cost roughly $40-$50. Prolly won't hurt to buy a new gas cap, as the rubber seal goes bad on old caps, as that too can set off the same code.

Well written, good advise. Thanks!

Pretty sure any leggie wagon from 95-99 will fit your 96 wagon. Engine size has nothing to do with compatibility of rear hatch fit. It is a two man job to remove, or install an entire hatch, because they are really heavy and bulky. On any replacement hatch from a yard, be sure the latch handle works properly. Over time, the latch can rust, and bind up, and not work properly. Best to buy a hatch with a good working latch.

My experience, is that oil filters need to be tightened with a filter wrench, not super tight, but certainly good and snug. I don't trust hand tightening to be tight enough to prevent an oil leak like you have experienced.

From the picture, it appears that the toe (in and out) is not right, when looking at the angle where the tire meets the road. Suggest you take the car to a good alignment shop, and show them what you see as bent. Ask their opinion on best course of action. If you know the shop well, they prolly won't charge you anything for a quick "look see" with the car up on their lift.

On a 95 model 2.2 motor, timing belts should be changed every 60K miles. Any idea when the timing belt was last changed?? One good thing about the 95 motor, is that it is a non interference engine, so if the timing belt breaks, you just get stranded, with no internal damage done to the valves or pistons requiring head removal. Simply a matter of just replacing the T/B to get you back on the road again.

5 or 6 inch. I think I bought mine as a set. Don't cost much at Harbor Freight store, if you have one near by.

AA always has the 20% coupon available when ordering on line. However, you can get even better coupons if you Google "Advance Auto coupons." Coupons available up to 30% off, or $40-$50 off, if your total purchase is over $100-$125.

Yea, that is the one man bleeder I have. Works great.

Wouldn't be surprised if AZ and Advance use the same caliper rebuilder. I have used Advanced as well as AZ with no problems from each. Any grease will work. It takes nothing special to grease the slide pins. Some guys will re-grease the slide pins every couple of years, particularly if they live in the snow belt, where a lot of salt is used on the roads. In the past, I have had to buy a new, rebuilt caliper, because the slide pin was so rusted that it could not be removed, even when using heat, and PB Blaster. New slide pins and bracket come with a new caliper. Advance Auto has good discount coupons, when ordering on line. Often, you can buy on line, then pick up parts at the store.

Welcome to USMB with your "new" Subie. I too, gravitated to Subaru after owning many VWs and Audis. Subaru is so much more reliable then VW products. I was forever fixing little problems on my Vdubs. As far as working on Subie rear brakes, pretty sure your LS wagon has disc brakes. They are very easy to work on. With the brake heat up, I am thinking you have a bad caliper, that is not releasing the pressure on the brake pad, when your foot is off the brake. Or, a stuck slide pin keeping pressure on the brake pad, could be the problem. When removing the brake pads, if you can't get the slide pin to move, then that is your problem. Yea, rebuilt caliper from AZ should work just fine. It comes with new slide pins. I bought several calipers from there with no problems. I use ceramic brake pads. They seem to last a good while, and don't deposit brake dust on the road wheels. Buy a "one man" bleeder tool to bleed the brakes. Works real well. EZ to use Standard DOT 3 brake fluid is all you need. Works just fine. If e-brake works fine, then don't mess with it. When installing new brake pads, be sure to grease the slide pins Hope the above info helps. Ask more questions, if you have them . Everyone here will be glad to help you.

Unless the motor was swapped in a 99 Legacy Outback, I bet the Outback turn out to be an Outback Sport model, which is an Impreza, with stock 2.2 motor in a 99 model.

Ok, thanks guys, then I will buy the 75W-90.

I, too, suspect a bad CV joint. I had a car few years back that after driving hours on the interstate developed a bad case of the shakes. I barely limped it into a shop for repairs. Got a call next day from the shop, that they could not find anything wrong once the car and CV joint cooled down. Car drove normally. Got the car home, it acted up again, so had both half shafts CVs replaced, and problem was solved. As reported, rebuilt half shaft CV joints are rebuilt as cheaply as possible, with the result that they don't last very long. Still a good idea to check out all front end suspension and steering components.