Rooster2
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Everything posted by Rooster2
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I, too, suspect a bad CV joint. I had a car few years back that after driving hours on the interstate developed a bad case of the shakes. I barely limped it into a shop for repairs. Got a call next day from the shop, that they could not find anything wrong once the car and CV joint cooled down. Car drove normally. Got the car home, it acted up again, so had both half shafts CVs replaced, and problem was solved. As reported, rebuilt half shaft CV joints are rebuilt as cheaply as possible, with the result that they don't last very long. Still a good idea to check out all front end suspension and steering components.
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Good chance someone swapped in a 2.2 motor during the life time of the car. There is a lot of that done, when the original 2.5 motor blows it's head gaskets. The 2.2 motor has a much better reputation for reliability, compared to the 2.5. The 2.5 in 96-99 models is notorious for blowing head gaskets, as the pistons protrude just slightly above the block at top dead center. Subaru used extra thick head gaskets, but over time, they don't hold up, and burn out, allowing exhaust gas to enter the cooling system. Over heating of the engine is the result. 2.2 motors don't have the head gasket problem, and are great for longevity.
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There must have been some improvement in either the quality of steel used in the bodies, and or, better primer and paint. My 91 Leggie formed paint and rust blisters at nicks in the paint, my 98 and 99 OBWs haven't done that. However, still seeing rust form in rear quarter area. We get some salty roads here in Indiana over winters, but not as bad in states with heavy winter snows.
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Another approach that I have done in the past, is to use a very small drill bit, and drill a tiny hole at the bottom of the plastic lens to create a drain passage to let water drain out. After a couple of years, the hole may begin to fill in with crud. However, poking a needle in the hole opens up the drain passage once again.
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Are you wanting to tow across town, or across the country?? Don't think towing far is a good idea. Your under powered Impreza won't be able to get out of it's own way. I can't remember if a Brat is all wheel drive or front wheel drive?? Which ever, you will want to get all drive wheels up and off the ground for a tow. Which means either using a tow dolly, or put Brat on a trailer if all wheel drive.
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I had same problem on my 99 OBW. Finally figured out that the hub was damaged, and that caused continuing early bearing failure. I went to a wrecking yard, and got a hub from a 99 Forester, as it is the same as one that fits my OBW. Installed the hub, and have been driving on it for 3 years now. I gave up on ever replacing wheel bearings again. Much less hassle and time to just replace the hub unit, and be done with it.
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outback lift
Rooster2 replied to mdjdc's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
You can get a 1-2" lift by going to over sized tires. On my 98 OB, I went from stock 205 X 70 X 15 to 215 X 70 X 15 with no body rubs. Some guys use Forester springs and struts to gain a lift. Others here can tell you all about that. -
Agree on concern about looking for rust. PA uses a lot of salt in the winter, the last I knew, so unless that has changed, there could be rust. If me, I would take to a private garage you trust, and pay a mechanic to mechanically check out the car. It could be money well spent. With buying a used car, I always figure the brake pads will need to be changed. Check the fluid level and color of the transmission fluid on the dip stick. If fluid is dark, it indicates it has been a while since ATF was changed. How does the car drive?? Do suspension struts provide a solid ride, or does the car "float" on worn out struts?? Just my thoughts.......
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I wrote the original Trans-X post back in 2008. Trans-X's claim to fame is that it corrects the tranny delayed forward engagement problem affecting only 1999 and 2000 model year Legacys. Uncertain, what therapeutic effect it will give your 97. What problem(s) are you having with your tranny?? To give it a try, recommend you drain and fill your auto tranny 3 times, with short drives between fills. This uses a lot of tranny fluid, but since only half of the tranny fluid can be drained at one time, (the other half remains in the torque converter). So, this is a good way to finish with good clean tranny fluid. After the last fill, add one 15 oz container of Trans-X. I use Walmart ATF, Dextron formula, and it seems to work just fine. Hope it helps, but please post what problem you are having with your auto tranny.
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"As a side note, being a jerk to someone volunteering their time to try and help you, a stranger, is not the way to build good will around here. Feel free to ignore suggestions or advise, but don't mouth off. It's really rude." Well said Woodswagen..........that needed to be said, and I could not have said it nicer or better.
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++++++ on what Istevens76 has posted. It is a tough lesson to learn the hard way, which I did. It is imperative to read the website address to confirm it is a third party source, and therefore avoid clicking onto them for a download. Those third party sources pay extra to Google to get listed first on search results. Just learn to be careful.
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I would not be surprised if your battery is the problem. Had similar problem years ago with my old VW. Turned out one battery cell was bad, so voltage output was low. I had enough amps to run the starter, but low voltage had dash gauges showing crazy read outs. Check the individual battery cells with a tester to see if that is the problem.
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I installed KYB Excel-G (GR-2) struts on all 4 corners of my OBW last year. Like you, wasn't sure if top hats were good or not. So, I also bought 4 KYB top hats, to have available if needed. Turned out, I used the top hats in the front, but not needed in the back. I ordered all through Advance Auto parts on line. Got a good discount using their on line coupon, and free shipping. What's nice is the Advance store is near by, so what I didn't use, was easily returned, and refunded for a credit back on my credit card. I bought the KYB top hats because I trust KYB quality, and knew the hats would match up correctly with the KYB struts. Not confident on other mfgers quality or match up.
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My experience......any free software available for download is going to include malware, and things you just don't ever want. I got burned on downloading an update on Adobe reader.
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Just a thought...........you may want to call around, or search websites of local wrecking yards in your area for a replacement motor. Cost will be far less, then what a dealer can offer. The down side is that you would prolly need to go to an independent garage to have the motor swapped in. Your Subie dealer won't want to install a wrecking yard motor. Wrecking yard motors come with at least a 30 day guarantee. This is what I did to have a 2.2 motor installed in my 98 OBW. Motor cost me $400. Installer charged me about $1600, which is a little expensive, but I know he is a damn good mechanic, and would do an excellent job, which he did. Swapped in motor has been great. It is better to get a motor from a car that has been wrecked, because you know the car was being driven at the time of the accident, so good chance the motor is good.
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On my 98 OBW, I swapped in a 2.2, where once a 2.5 lived. Noticable loss of power on entrance to interstate ramps, and when passing. Going to an even smaller 2.0, and carrying a bunch of camping stuff, and trailoring your moto, which will weigh down your OB, I have serious doubts you will be happy living with the power loss.
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I ordered on line the NKG Iridium BKR5E-IX. So confusing on spark plug purchasing. So many models from so many manufactures. I am hoping that spending a few bucks more on plugs, buys longer milage life. Like everything, progress moves on, so hoping that the newer NKG plug offering is better then what Subaru recommended back in 99, when the car was new.