Rooster2

I have Bosch Platinum plugs in the car now. The one with just a single anode. They have about 40K miles on them, so not surprised that one plug is starting to misfire. The Bosch plugs have been fine, but didn't expect them to last forever. Since plug swap is such a wrenching hassle with the 2.5 motor, I figured I would go to the more expensive NKG Iridium plugs, hoping for more then 40K miles in the future.

Good thought about changing all the spark plug wires, I was thinking the same thing. I am thinking that NKG Iridium BKR5E-IX is a good plug choice.

I finally got the "search" to work on my computer, and found this in the old files. Guess this answers my questions as to what spark plugs to put in my 99 OBW, that I posted earlier this morning.

What brand spark plugs and model # recommended for my 99 OBW. I just threw a code, and #4 has a mis-fire, so prolly plugs going bad. If new plugs don't fix, then I will install wires. Thanks for any recommendations. I tried using the search feature here, but could not get it to work.

#2 bad rear springs can contribute to abnormal inner tire wear at the rear. At 223 K miles, good chance the rear springs are originals, so need replacing. How are the struts??

Unaware that Subie rotors need "to be bed in." I just install mine, and drive car as usual. No special treatment needed.

Subaru exhaust systems never totally wear out, just individual pieces over time. Recommend you find a family owned muffler shop that torch cuts off only what is broken, then welds on new lengths of pipe, or installs new connectors as needed. That is what I always do, and repair cost is always under $100. Avoid the chain store muffler shops, and repair garages, as they always want to replace the entire system and charge big bucks. Seems like dealerships and private repair garages have a mandate that they must quote the customer something in excess of $500 in order to stay in business. If the leak is at a resonator, simply replace it with a straight pipe. I have done this on both of my Outbacks, and the exhaust is just as quiet, as if the resonator was still on the system. Regarding oil leaks, my two old Outbacks leak some oil mostly from the valve covers. I simply add a can of oil stop leak when I change the oil. It doesn't stop the leak, but cuts back the leak in half. I usually change brands of stop leak at each oil change to let each manufacturer take their best shot at oil leak management. All auto parts store has oil stop leak for sale. It's a patch, not a fix, but I avoid that $500 fix that a repair shop would want to charge.

Well with plenty of meat left on the pads, you may get lucky, and not need to address a caliper repair or replacement. Put on a new rotor, and drive on. Old rotor may have been made with bad steel. Probably a good idea to keep an eye on that rotor replacement. If you feel any braking with foot off the brake pedal, or smell a hot brake pad, then you can get suspicious that the caliper is a problem. It would be nice to check the temperature of the rotor, after driving for a while, with a heat gun (with digital read out), to see if there is any high temperatures at any of your rotors.

Pads and rotors should not wear out in less then a year and a half. Was the inside brake pad that rubs against the inside of the rotor worn out to permit metal on metal contact to wear the rotor so badly?? If so, the caliper continues to put pressure on the rotor, even though your foot is not on the brake pedal. Chances are, if you pull of the rotor, then compress the piston back, you will see a bad rubber seal, and rust build up on the walls of the caliper. It is that rust that keeps the piston from retracting as it should, when your foot is off the brake.

A windshield wiper mark is actually a scratch on the glass, probably from a broken wiper, that allowed the steel part of the wiper blade to slide along the glass. I don't think there is any way that the scratched area can be repaired.

For my time and money, I would buy a rebuilt caliper from Advance Auto Parts. The do it yourself of trying to repair an old caliper just never seems worth the effort. If you go on line to Advance and look for coupons, you can usually find a coupon good for $25-$30 off the selling price. If in stock at a local store, I pay for the part on line, and pick it up at the store. You will also need a new rotor, but I bet you already know that.

I would put my money on it being a bad alternator from NAPA. Like Nipper said, there are a lot of rebuilts, that just don't last. NAPA should replace under warranty.

I understand your concern about loosing the rig to the water. No question it will put some extra strain on the clutch. Like Fairtaxme said, the steepness of going up the ramp is the issue. The lake ramp I usually go to, where I launch my bass boat is a pay to launch place. If this is your case, you might call the office, and ask what they see with small 5-speed SUV launch and pull out success rates.

Go on line to You Tube. Search "Subaru exhaust." Several videos with sound with different exhaust set ups.

What is your concern about launching?? A Forester will be all wheel drive, so pulling a boat and trailer up a slippery wet launch ramp should not be a problem. I have seen trucks with rear wheel drive, or front drive mini vans spin their tires on a slippery up grade ramp on a pull out.

Seems I remember that the coolant temp sensor sends a signal to the computer to make the fuel mix richer until the engine warms up. Yea, good guess that the coolant temp sensor is the problem.

If you google, "subaru engine into vw bus," you will find a bunch written on this subject, and some u-tube videos as well. Buy, maybe you have seen all this??

Chris, I originated this thread 6 years ago. If you try the Trans-X, it is important to fill and drain the transmission fluid three time, with short drives between drain and fills to mix the new and old tranny fluid. This is necessary because only about half of the tranny fluid can be drained at one time. The other half remains in the torque converter, and can't be drained. All the draining and refilling does a pretty good job of cleaning out the old transmission fluid. Add the Trans-X upon the last transmission fill. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the automatic transmission, so this is an easy do it yourself job. Cost of three large gallon jugs of tranny fluid at Wal Mart is about $50, so you can save yourself some money, as opposed to spending a couple of hundred bucks. Yes, $4100 will get you a new tranny, if it comes to that. However, Subaru transmissions are well built, and generally don't break, so the repeated advise I have read on this forum, is to buy a used tranny from a wrecking yard for a few hundred bucks. It will come with a guarantee, and most likely come from a car that was involved in a wreck. Since the car was driven at the time of the accident, it is highly likely that the transmission was operating properly. Have a shop install the unit, and that will cost far less then $4100. IMO, it is not prudent to invest $4100 in a 15 year old car.

When an exhaust shroud comes loose it makes a high pitch zzzzzzzzzzzzing, and clatter sound. Broken cat media sounds like gravel stones bouncing around in a metal bucket. Most likely it is a loose shroud. Can be quieted down with a hose clamp, or use a hammer and drive in a large bolt as a wedge between the pipe and the shroud to prevent it from rattling.

Glad you and your car are okay. Had to put you in a panic at the time.

I, too, suspect a bad starter. Advise above from Montana Tom is spot on. I would do what he suggests. If it turns out to be bad starter contacts, some people do their own rebuild by replacing the contacts. The contacts can be sourced at a Subie dealership. However, my experience is the dealer does not have the parts immediately available, so they must be ordered. So waiting for parts, then do the rebuild takes time so it becomes a project. It costs more, but buying a rebuilt starter from an auto parts store, has been easiest for me.

Yea, prolly the valves are bad, since it is an interference motor. Pistons should be okay. It is only the valves that gets taken out.

Don't drive the car with this problem, or even running the motor with the timing off. Just more of a chance to bend the valves. Check out timing belts, idlers, and water pump kits on e-bay. Prices are great, and quality is good. If not something you want to work on yourself, then prolly best to have the car towed to a garage, and have them do all the work.

Maybe bad cold coil pack?? That is why swapping fuel injectors remained at cylinder 2. Subarus are mechanically sound, so not surprised that a compression test came back negative. I suspect your trouble is electrical or electronic.

Since for sale by a private party, guess that means owner, not dealership, I would ask the owner for maintenance receipts to show what work has been done to the car during their ownership. Look for oil change receipts. If oil has been changed regularly, it is a good chance the motor may well be good for 300K miles. Best to check for rust, as mentioned above. Usually caused by salt added to roads in the winter. Does Maine use salt on your roads??