Rooster2

EZ to fix, o-ring available from dealer. Can't remember exactly how to replace the o-ring, but it is intuitive, once you see the size of the o-ring. The Subie counter parts guy will show you how, and where to install.

+1 on swapping in a 1995 2.2 motor. That is what I did to replace the 2.5 motor in my OBW. The 95 model is a direct swap without having to change the Y pipe. Also the 95 motor is non-interference. The 96-99, 2.2 motors became interference motors, so be aware of that too. My auto 99 has the delayed forward tranny engagement problem. Trans-X is the solution. Much written on this forum about the Trans-X tranny fix. Here is the link to the post, that I originated back in 08................ FIXED!! Trany delayed forward engagement

Seems unlikely that all the fuel injectors have gone bad. More likely just dirty. Before going back to that shop, and spending $259, I would pull out a spark plug to see what condition it is in . My guess, is that it needs new spark plugs. Spark plug wires may be okay, since you don't mention that the motor is miss-firing. The plugs are easy to remove and replace on a 2.2 motor. Not anymore difficult then removing and replacing a light bulb. Would also recommend adding a can of fuel injector cleaner. Buy the good stuff like Techron, that cost about $7.00 a bottle. Don't buy the cheap stuff costing around $4.00 a bottle. The cheap stuff doesn't help much.

There are other forums on USMB. At the top left of the page, you will see the word " Forums." Click on that, and list your car, and or parts on the "Market place" forum. Hope that works out for you. Setting up a Pay Pal account is easy.

Maybe some decent replacement parts available from wrecking yards at car-part.com It is worth a look see.

I am guessing your are referring to the check engine light. When lit, have the code read at an auto parts store. They will do that in their parking lot at no cost. The code will give you advise, as to what the problem is.

Not a major problem. Just be aware that motor will feel like it is down 25 horse power, and gas millage will be off about 5 mpg. The computer reacts to the bad knock sensor by retarding engine timing electronically.

Not having been run in a while prolly won't affect the head gaskets at all. Still a good idea to add Subaru dealer only stop leak product to the cooling system to lessen any leakage of coolant from the head gaskets. Others have said if you know what to look for, after a head gasket change, the corners of the head gaskets will have a different "look," that will indicate that the head gaskets have been changed. I don't know what that "look" will be, but someone on this forum will be able to tell you.

My 99 Outback developed a pin hole leak in the medal tubing that connects at the bottom of the condenser. The leak was just above where it threads into the condenser. Rather difficult to see, as it is at the very bottom of the condenser on passenger side of the car. Subieborder, since you had a leak additive put in your system, you should see leak detector stains at the fitting, if yours is leaking there.

All Subies are full time all wheel drive. There is no adjustable traction control system. On some Subies, you can insert a fuse in a special fuse holder to have the car be in front wheel drive mode only. This is really designed to be used when having a flat tire. The all wheel drive system need all four tires to be the same size. A space saving spare is a smaller tire. Not financially practical to swap out an auto for a stick shift. Far better off buying a stick shift model to begin with, if that is what you want. Subies are super reliable, and excellent in the snow.

Your post reminds me of the old days, when cars had R-12 systems. Then R-12 was discontinued, so systems were converted over to R-134A. All the conversion talk then was the new R-134A refrigerant molecule was smaller then the R-12 molecule. As a result, shops were selling the need to change all rubber A/C hoses to new advanced hoses that would not leak refrigerant. Well best I could figure out, the hose change talk was mostly BS. I converted many a system over to R-134A with insignificant hose leak, that I could determine. Seems like changing out the dryer is still part of that same BS talk. Sure the dryer may pick up a tiny bit of moisture from the atmosphere, but not that much during a hose swap out. It is not like atmospheric gas, and moisture is rushing into the A/C system, just because the system has been evacuated. I opened up my system a few years back to replace a metal hose that had developed a pin hole leak. I replaced the metal hose, and O rings, then simply charged up the system with 2 cans of R-134. My system still pumps out really cold air with no system issues. Conclusion.......replacing the dryer is not necessary.

There was a recent discussion regarding this same subject. Do a "search" in the archives to read pros and cons.

One thing you may want to check into, is to google "hydraulic hose fabrication." Having a shop make a couple of custom made hoses will cost you far less then $250. There may even be a small fabricator near where you live, that will do a nice job for you. Usually a fabricator is located in a small industrial park, and sells their service to manufacturing plants having hydraulic equipment needing hose replacement. Also, heavy duty truck repair shops need hydraulic hose, so calling one of those shops may be able to refer you to a fabricator.

Having bought my 99 OBW with 148K on the odometer, and now 8 years later, I have 224K on the odometer. You are so correct in that I have had to replace all four struts, ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearing, half shafts, and head gaskets during my ownership. It is just the typical repair stuff you are going to get on a car over 10 years old with a lot of miles on the odometer. So, expect these repairs on any older Subie, and really any other older car, no matter what make. Don't get me wrong, I still love my Subie, it is one heck of a car.

Guess I am confused, as to why the owner is selling cars that either had major engine work, or motor replaced?? Subarus seldom need major engine work, or engine replacement unless they were wrecked, or poorly maintained, usually to the point of running out of oil, which will destroy the motor. If me, I would look for other sources for a good used Forester. Are you sure this company has a good reputation for selling quality cars at market price??

I fully agree with Matt. It makes no sense to spend really good money for a car with a rebuilt title. You have no idea how bad the car was after being totaled. Perhaps even the uni-body has been bent. I am guessing the engine work was necessary after motor was damaged from a traffic accident. You have no idea if this car was rebuilt to meet safe car standards. My best advise is to only buy this car on the cheap, for around $3000, or less. Please don't let your emotions for this pretty car sway you to spend too much for something with a very questionable past.

Tire looks like a studded snow tire. Snow tires are not made to take any kind of heat. So, maybe that has something to do with what appears to be steel belt wires poking out of the tread. Looks like plenty of tread on the tire, maybe take it back where you bought it, to see if any warranty remains on the tire. I sure would not drive on that tire, but perhaps, since it appears to be a snow tire, you no longer have the tire on your car.

Thanks Fairtax4me, I will follow your advise and check out the hose. Regards..............Larry (Rooster2)

My 98 OBW has power brakes, but the "power" seems gone. Pushing on the pedal feels like standard old brakes, on cars that I have owned long ago. The brakes work just fine, just have to really press down on the pedal to stop. I am thinking the power brake booster has gone bad. I don't detect any vacuum leaks anywhere. Anyone ever have the same problem, and if so, how did you fix it??

If replacing the compressor, then yes, add some PAG. I can't remember how much, maybe 2 ounces, but others will know.

Thanks, that was what I remembered, but I am getting old, so my memory plays tricks on me.

How did you fix the over heating problem??

Paying a lawyer $1,000 retainer to review a potential claim paper work is absolutely unreasonable. Can't believe anyone would fall for that ploy.

Some years back I came to the conclusion that their is NO bad engine oil for sale. Dino Oil is simply Oil with additives, and every company has their own secret recipe of additives to advertise that their oil is superb. I have used Wal-Mart house brand of oil for years with no issues, and saved a few bucks. The biggest thing to remember about oil, is to change it, and the filter. I change dino oil between 2,000 and 3,000 miles, synthetic changes are about 5,000 for me. Failure to change oil is the greatest engine wear factor, and oil sludge build up factor, that there is. Be good to your car, and keep the oil changed on time.

+1 on above, the filters that I avoid are the ones from Fram. IMHO, they are not made well, with not much internal media. There are also stories of Fram canisters bursting, dropping all your engine oil on the pavement. Not something I ever want to address