Rooster2

Starting to sound more and more like a bad water pump.

recommend you replace the thermostat and radiator cap. If you do so, buy the most expensive thermostat at a parts store, or an OEM from a dealer. Subarus do not do well if a cheapie thermostat is used.

a water pump going bad will leak from within the unit.

Are you touching the glass part of the bulb with your fingers? If so, that is the problem. The slight amount of oil from your fingers left on the glass envelope over heats the bulb to cause an early burn out. Always best to clean the bulb glass with rubbing alcohol using a kleenex, or paper towel prior to installation, then only handle the new bulb for installation using the kleenex or paper towel.

I just had a timing belt and water pump replaced at a private garage. They charged me $525, but with a AAA club discount, the bill was $475. Head gasket issue on a 2001 is usually not a big issue. Subaru does sell a "conditioner," which is a "stop leak" product. It does a good job of sealing up any external coolant leaks. After reading your post, I bet your car's timing belt has never been changed.

Don't think changing the fluid once is much help. That only changes about 50% of the ATF. What is generally done, is to drain and fill 3 times with short drives between drains to mix new with old ATF, before draining. Yes, I would install the spin filter upon doing the third fluid change. That is what I have done on my 99 OBW. Winter in Michigan is not a good time to be working on a car, unless perhaps you can find a heated garage. I have used drive up ramps placed at the front of my car to drain the fluid and change the tranny filter. You will need a funnel with a long slender tube to add ATF at the dip stick tube. None of this is difficult, just can be messy if any ATF is spilled.

To have two tires go down at once........there has to be a story behind this. If the suspension was subject to any trauma, then prolly a good idea to get a 4 wheel alignment, when new tires are installed.

Just be sure the tow is actually having the Forester moved on a flat bed tow truck, not by anything else that tows the car with 2 wheels rotating on the pavement.

agree, spark plugs, and perhaps plug wires. At least pull a spark plug wire, and see how much it is worn. Easy do it yourself project to change yourself.

agree, better to flat bed to a tire shop. Not worth adding potential AWD problems to the Forester. Perhaps you have tow insurance with AAA, or car insurance that will cover the cost. If not, still better to pay the tow out of your pocket.

Be aware that a drain of the ATF, only drains half the ATF out of the system, the other half remains in the torque converter, and won't drain out. Best to drain and fill 3 times, with short drives between fills to mix old ATF with new ATF. This wastes a lot of fluid, but gives a good drain and fill with new fluid.

just be sure to cut the power upon the tank becoming empty, as the fuel cools the fuel pump, when it is being used. Otherwise, the fuel pump will burn out, if not cooled.

Suggest replacing the PCV valve before giving up on your Forester. It is inexpensive, and takes two minutes to replace. A bad PCV valve is a known source of excessive oil burning.

I replaced the pcv in my 99 OBW a couple of months back. It wasn't causing me any trouble, but looked really old and dirty. I simply bought one from an auto parts store. Seems to work just fine. I have never heard anything stating that only OEM should be used.

Suggest, if you have not done so..........do a google search for "2002 subaru maf location." This will give you access to several sites, and even to a link for MAF sales sight on line with pictures. Maybe the talk and pixs will help you.

It is customary in a motor swap to stay with the wiring harness that is in the car. I don't know of any subtle changes between the motors, but if need be. If the wiring to the motor was not identical, I wouldn't be surprised if the intake manifold off the original motor was bolted onto the swapped in motor. That way original factory wiring is kept in tact. The Impreza and Forester are built onto the same chassis, with the same 2.5 motor, so would expect all parts location to be the same. So, don't think of these 2 vehicles as being that much different. They really are not. If it were me, i would check the basics fires. Pull out a spark plug or 2 to see what shape they are in, or perhaps just replace all spark plugs, so you know they are all good. Add a bottle of Chevron Techtron, or other good injection cleaner product. Put in the good stuff costing $7 or $8 per bottle. Don't waste your money buying cheaper injector cleaner. The cheap stuff doesn't work well. With injector cleaner you get what you pay for. Drive car for a while to see if drives better. Post all codes here. Fixing code makers always helps a car run better. Keep us posted on your progress............Rooster2

I have a 99 OBW. Does the lube in the front and rear dif need to be changed periodically?? This was brought to my attention, when watching Goss Garage, on Motor Week, on the PBS channel. Goss said the lube needs to be changed on AWD vehicles as often as every 30K miles. I don't have an owner's manual to look for an answer to this question. Anyone know, and if so, with what recommended product. Thanx, Larry (Rooster2)

Recommend buying a T-belt, idler, and pulley kit for your car off e-bay. Best price, and good quality. Also, install a new water pump since you have done all the labor to have it available right in front of you. Just be sure you know what you are doing in lining up the T-belt properly. Do it wrong, and you will damage the valves in your engine. That will be expensive to fix.

My kids are grown, but well remember kid's car issues. Usually problem caused by kid in-attention, like tuning the radio, or talking on the cell, and then just happened to run into the curb. My daughter ran into the back of a car, while tuning the radio. Suggest jacking up the front passenger side off the ground. See if there is any "play" or movement, if the road wheel is pulled back and forth, or up and down. That will tell you if a tie rod, or ball joint is bad. Also, a good time to inspect the road tire for problems. Since the road wheel was bent, there is a good possibility that the front end alignment is not correct. Have an alignment shop check that out. They would also check for possible ball joint or tie rod issues, as well as any CV issue.

Prolly best to remove the unit from your Forester, and open the case inside your home, so you can really get at the CD. Ejection is a mechanical process. Try to see what is preventing the ejection system from working properly. Otherwise, there isn't much you can do trying to fix this problem outside the case.

ebay is a good source for buying a kit that will include a TB, idlers, and pulleys. Reasonably priced too. I have a complete kit installed on my 99 OBW

I just had a TB break on my '95, 2.2 motor. I suspected either a bad TB or fuel pump, so I pulled off the air intake, and with the help of a friend squirted started fluid into the intake, and then cranked the motor. The motor refused to start, and could tell that there was no suction while cranking the motor, so could pretty well deduce that the valves weren't working to indicate a bad timing belt. I had the car towed to a garage, where they confirmed a bad TB. Thank God my '95 motor is non interference, so no valve damage. I would have liked to have a kit of new tensioners and pulleys installed along with the new TB, but couldn't obtain a kit quick enough. The shop said all existing pulleys and tensioners were still good.

Thanx

My 99 Outback has 205 X 70 X 15 tires on it now. Need new tires soon, will 205 X 65 X 15, or 215 X 65 X 15 fit without rubbing anything?? Seems like 70 series tires are old fashion, so there are fewer tire brands to select from that make that size. Appears no cars have offered 70 series tires for past 15 years as new car tires.

+1 on not dropping the pan. There is an internal screen that never needs changing. Besides, dropping the pan will most likely cause an ATF leak. Seems impossible to bolt up the pan without causing a leak.