Rooster2

I recently had a friend replace the filler pipe on both my 98 & 99 Outbacks, as both were rusted and leaking. He did most of the work, I was his "helper." No need to drain the gas tank, as the pipe connects at the top of the gas tank, so no gas is going to leak out. The 94 and 95 models are different car bodies. Maybe the 94 needs to be drained, I don't know, but not with 95-99 models. If still unsure, pull the road wheel to get a good view of exactly where the fill pipe enters your gas tank. It will be easy enough for you to see. I disagree with PA Grown.......yes, the holes in the filler pipe prevent the needed vacuum effect for best fuel pumping. However, the vacuum leak is minor, and not strong enough to suck in dirt along with air. The situation created is hard on the fuel pump, and prolly affects its longevity. Also, I don't think air is able to enter the fuel line, so no need to pull the fuel line from the fuel filter. Also, upon pipe replacement, I did not replace the plastic enclosure around the pipe, seems like more trouble then it is worth. It may be a good idea to replace the fuel filter. It is easy to do. Replacing the fuel filter on my 99 resulted in a much stronger running motor, so they do get clogged up over time. Yes, the computer senses there is a vacuum leak and will set off the PO 440 code. Removing a battery cable for 5 minutes, then re-install will remove the code, and cancel the check engine light warning on your dashboard. Of course, if your have a code reader tool, you can remove the code using the reader tool as well.

Since you work at a Valvoline store, it would be easy for you to change the AT fluid. Only half can be drained at one time, as the other half of the ATF remains in the torque converter and will not drain out. Suggest you do a drain and fill 3 times with short drives between refills. This takes a gallon and a pint of ATF upon each refill, but does a good job of getting rid of old fluid. I read that you think the current ATF looks clean, but you don't know if previous owner put an additive in with the ATF, to now cause problems. You may also want to consider adding Lucas AT additive. That product is well respected.

Don't think any new rockers are available in the aftermarket. Just not enough demand for a company to produce them. Used parts is going to be your only option.

See if you can read documentation, likely a receipt, that the head gaskets were replaced 10K miles ago. Check to see if the replacement head gasket was a genuine Subaru part. If so, the motor may be good for many more miles. Figure a well maintained Subaru motor is good for 300K miles. If non Subaru head gasket was used, then I would have reservations about how long the replacement head gasket will last.

Option 2 buy same can with the ghetto pressure gauge attached. buy one of the "A/C kits' that have all the orings in it. replace the two orings on the hoses that bolt to the compressor. add proper amount of refrigerant - two of the normal sized small cans works for all Subarus and i'll even add that without using gauges if it's an empty system. ***There is no need to pull a vacuum. I've done it countless times on Subarus - it's way overhyped by folks that don't know what they're talking about or HVAC people that only know one way of doing it and make mad loot off a public that's terrified of A/C systems. Grossgary, I took your advise last Spring using Option #2. Your advise was spot on. I had to replace a leaking metal tube line. On a completely empty system, I started by adding about a half can of 134a. I then bled that out thru the Schrader to the atmosphere, thinking this would also pull out a good share of any moisture and atmosphere from the system. (Yea, I know the environmentalist don't like people venting 134a to the atmosphere, but then the same thing happens when your system develops a leak) So, I don't feel too guilty. Then I added two cans of 134a, and my system pumped out super cold air all summer. Yea the gauge on a cheap hose attaching to a can is not terribly accurate, but it doesn't need to be. To me "close" on correct amount is good enough, and I bet I have serviced some 50+ cars this way, with no problems.

Good idea, Thanx

For what it is worth, I bought the A/C gauge set from Harbor Freight a couple of years back. The set seemed okay, but it seems designed for commercial use, not for the DIY kits, or individual 13 oz cans available at an auto parts store. Also, it was Chinese manufactured, and the directions for gauge use were very poorly written. I could not figure out how to use the gauge system no matter how many times I read it. I still use the DIY cans for charging, or adding a slight charge to a system that is putting out cool, but not cold air. IMO, my rule of thumb is to add one can if going from cool to cold, or use 2 cans if the system is totally empty of refrigerant. I have some further advise, but am under a time restraint at the moment. Drop me a note if interested at fish6525@yahoo.com...........Rooster2

Same thought. I think your system needs recharged. If leaking refrigerant, then the leak will need to be fixed.

Good advise, I will remember this..............Rooster2

Update..................Finally, I hope, got the wipers fixed. It turned into a nasty time consuming project. Went to a yard on Saturday that said they had a 99 Leggie on hand, which is the same year as my Leggie. That was wrong info. Searched high and low, there was simply no 99 Leggie on the lot. I snagged a wiper rod from a 91 Leggie as a last resort, but that turned out to not fit a 99. So tried to swap a bushing from the 91 rod to a 99. That didn't work. Those factory bushings are somehow manufactured into the rod, and trying to remove a bushing will only result in breaking it. Finally, got an aftermarket bushing from a parts store designed to fit a Nissan, to fit the Subie rod. It was a bear to get that bushing to fit into the Subie rod hole, but got it to fit good and tight. For anyone reading this in the future, be advised that you are far better off getting a complete rod with good bushings from a yard, or spend $63 to order a new one from the parts counter at a Subie dealer. Hope I never need to work on a Subie wiper mechanism ever again.

Wow......that picture needs to be with other photos on how to do red neck repairs..........LOL

Probably will fit. I have 215 X 70 X 15 size on my 99 OBW, which is the same car that you have. I have no rubbing issues. Car sits a little taller. Just be sure to use the same size tires at all four corners. Subaru AWD requires this.

Agree with the others, KYB is my recommendation. I have used there struts for years, and always been pleased. Great quality, last a long time. Yea, a little stiffer then OEM, but maybe some of that is just because of the difference in comparing a warn out strut to a new one. The last couple of installations, I had done at a shop, that let me bring in my new KBBs. I never liked working with a spring compressor. Always felt wary that the compressor was some how going to slip and release the tension on the spring in a nasty way. I just think it is a dumb way to get hurt, and then needing to go to a hospital.

Yea, I recently ran into the same confusion on what fill pipe to buy. I have a 99 OBW that recently needed the fill pipe replaced. I ordered on line from a parts house, but received the wrong part, even though it was suppose to be the correct part to fit the 2.5 motor on a 99 model. The only other choice left was to buy a fill pipe designed to work with the 2.2 motor, even though I have the 2.5 motor, which I did. Well, I gambled, and bought the 2.2 unit, and it was the correct one. BTW, I kept the wrong pipe, and installed it into my 98 OBW, it fit perfectly. Why Subie has two different style fill pipes is confusing. Suggest you go on line to look at parts store websites. I think I bought Dorman brand fill pipes. Enlarge sketch pictures of each of the two model fill pipes, and print out both sketches. Then pull off your road wheel, compare the sketch pictures to the unit that is on your car. One unit has a several rubber hoses attached, the other one has fewer hoses. Visually, it will be obvious which fill pipe you need to order. Also, there is a protective plastic enclosure around the fill pipe. It is suppose to protect the fill pipe, but does little more then get packed with road grime and moisture to create rust holes in the fill pipe over time. That is what it did on my car. On replacing my fill pipe, I did not install the plastic enclosure. I just threw it away. BTW, I may still have the receipts on both of the fill pipes, which would list the model stock number. I will look up the stock numbers, if you like. Just let me know. Regards, Rooster2

Instead of using high temp silicone as a patch, I would suggest using JB Weld. However, it may be too late to use JB, as it requires super clean surfaces to bond to the steel of the exhaust pipe. Don't know if you could ever clean off the silicone well enough to get JB Weld to bond. You could still go to the single pipe fix. Just keep the unused pipe attached to your car for the visual Boy Racer look. Only in situations where water vapor is seen coming from the exhaust pipe, would it look odd. Vapor coming from one pipe, and not the other.

Yea, classic behavior of bad head gaskets.

Yea, that is a good option, except a yard is a good distance from where I live. I went to a Subie dealership yesterday, talked to the parts desk guy. As I suspected, wiper bushings cannot be ordered separately. Subaru will sell the arm with 2 bushings for $63. I declined, but then was surprised when the counter guy suggested sourcing the bushings fitting an 89-92 Nissan Maxima. Maybe, I can source that at a parts store, or on line. If not, it is off to a yard.

Does the dealer want to replace the torque converter under warranty at no cost to you??

Yea, I now see what you mean. It is not a weed shroud, but a welded on brace to stabilize the pipes as one splits into two. IMO creating dual exhaust by splitting a pipe into two is all for "show," and does nothing for performance. If the car were mine, I would consider having a Mom & Pop muffler shop (like I described in a previous response) cut the pipe off at the "Y", then convert the exhaust system over to become a single pipe running back to the bumper. It would be the easiest solution. There is nothing illegal about doing this. All exhaust emission systems would remain in place.

Ask about service records, if available? That model Subie is prone to having the head gaskets go bad. It would be nice to know if they have been replaced, and at what time and millage. I drive an 98 OBW, so I know the car pretty well. They are very reliable, except for the head gasket issue. Prolly a good idea to have a mechanic at a garage inspect the car for issues, if you are not the mechanical type.

Bought the HELP kit # 49447 wiper plastic bushings as pictured on this thread. I could't find any in the package assortment that would fit well. Best I could do is find one that I had to clip off two tabs and insert using pliers to make a super tight fit. Seemed to work okay on testing, but tonight in a rain down pour on the interstate, the bushing came loose. I can hear the wiper motor working but wipers aren't moving. Guess none of the kit bushings will fit my 99 OBW. I drive by a Subie dealer tomorrow, I will have to source a bushing there. Thanks everyone for the advise. The "how to" access the bushing instructions were great.

Lots written on this forum about swapping in a 2.2 into a 96-99 Legacy. Just search around and read a lot. I swapped in a 95, 2.2 as a direct drop in. Car runs great.

Years back, I had a 92 Leggie motor droppend into a 91 Legacy I owned. The shop said it was an easy drop in, with the exception that some of the electrical connectors were different on the 92, but the wiring was the same. Seems they said that some of the electrical connectors were changed to complete the swap.

Yea, I think a set of new spark plugs will make a difference, maybe even a new set of spark plug wires. Put in plugs first to see it the idle and over all performance is better. Maybe won't need wires. You may also want to install a new fuel filter. Amazing what better fuel flow can do for performance. Also, add a can of good fuel injector cleaner. Use the good stuff like Chevron Techron, or something else that cost about $6 a can. Don't waste your money on cheap fuel injector cleaner costing less then $6.00. The cheap stuff doesn't help much. I had a 91 Subie wagon...........pretty much like your 94. They are good solid runners with the 2.2 motor. My suspicion is a worn CV joint is making the ticking sound. Turning the steering wheel changes the wear angle on the CV bearing to an area that is not worn, so sound goes away is my opinion.

From Rooster2...............I don't know that there is any data on Trans-X being effective on a 2007 mode. This tread was written to correct a seal problem that affects only 99 and 00 model Subarus. After the 2000 model, Subaru corrected the seal to permanently correct the problem. Your problem may be caused by the dirty fluid only, and so changing the fluid has fixed the problem. Adding Trans-X may not help, but certainly could help, just hard to tell. Subaru builds strong robust automatic transmissions that rarely break. My vote would be to hang on to the car. I doubt that the tranny will go south any time soon. Rooster2