Rooster2

I wrote the original Delayed Forward Engagement post about 6 years ago. Trans-X does a great job fixing the problem on 99 and 00 models. I thought Subaru fixed the problem on the 2001 model, but maybe you have an early 2001 that still uses the 2000 model tranny. Spend some time reading the post from the link just above. It is well worth a Trans-X fix to see if it can repair your tranny.

It is good that Trans-X has made things better. Keep your fingers crossed that the improvement will last.

hmmmmmm...........suggest you examine closely the neutral safety switch.

I recently replaced the O ring in my P/S unit, as I was leaking fluid. However, that only fixed part of the problem, as I continued to leak some fluid in the system. Looking around, I found that my boots were torn on the steering rack. Dirt and crud caused wear to the point of causing the fluid leak. So, I bought a used rack, and had a friend install in my 98 OBW. The rack was installed just last weekend, so too soon to tell if this solves the leakage problem. So, you may want to crawl under the front end to see if you see any fluid leaks coming from the steering rack.

Rob, I wrote the original post on this subject prolly 5-6 years back. I still drive the same OBW, and continue to use Trans-X when needed. A treatment lasts about 1 year for me, but then I don't drive many miles per year. So, suppose the treatment lasts less time if more miles are driven. It has been my experience that the delay is only about 1 second after a Trans-X treatment. Also, seems to work best after 3 drains and fills, with new Trans-X added with last fill. The 3 drains and fills are needed, as only about half of the ATF can be drained at one time. The rest stays in the torque converter, and won't drain out. It works out great that a drain pulls out 1 gallon and 1 pint, so refilling with 1 gallon of new ATF plus the one pint of Trans-X fills up the tranny to the proper level. I am a bit concerned that your tranny is slipping out of Drive at idle. That is a different problem, that Trans-X can't fix. Don't have any advise to give you on that issue. Regards,.....................................Rooster2

Yea, I would suspect the security system as well, but don't have any idea how to proceed. Has the starter acted up recently?? If so, you may want to try giving it a gentle tap with a hammer before starting the car. It just might help.

Most likely that is for left hand drive. This guy has a postal wagon, so it is right hand drive. Doubt they are interchangeable.

A 1995 motor is the easiest to replace, because no change needed with exhaust port. That is the motor I put in my 98 OBW. Motor runs like a champ, so smooth.

99 and 00 models are subject to "delayed forward engagement" to Drive from Park. The problem can be dealt with by adding Trans-X AT conditioner to the ATF. The problem only affects 99 and 00 models. I know the problem and solution very well, as I drive a 99 model. The problem affects only engaging the tranny into Drive. Once in Drive, the tranny performs nomallly.

I have read stories of water pumps breaking down, with pieces of their pump fins breaking off, or what ever. Result is poor water pump performance, with resultant over heating. It may be worth your time to pull the water pump to check out its condition. It may be worth it, to just replace the water pump, as they are not that expensive. When you drained the radiator, did you see any rusty looking water, or crud drain from the radiator? If so, that would have been a strong indicator that your radiator is plugged up. If not, then I would think the radiator may not be your problem.

I'm thinking that an ATF drain amount is about half of the system capacitiy, with the remaining half staying in the torque converter. Doing a 3 time drain and fill does a better job of replacing the system ATF with fresh product, then a two time drain and fill. As said, it is your call on how clean you want your ATF to be.

Rockauto prices and delivery are great, when all goes well. Problems begin if they ship you the wrong or defective product, causing you to deal with their customer service. Their customer service is reported to be poor, and uncooperative.

Wouldn't be surprised if a bearing in an idler pully, or tensioner froze and locked up to break the timing belt.

I had the same thought before scrolling down to read your post. Lucky it is a 95 with non-interference motor. A broken timing belt won't damage this motor.

Your engine is certainly salvageable, however, with a broken timing belt. you very likely have bent valves. In addition to what your mechanic says you need, your mechanic will need to pull the heads, replace bad valves, clean up the surface of the heads, and install new head gaskets. I am surprised your mechanic failed to advise you of the valve damage problem. He must not think your engine is an "interference" type motor. However, you do have an interference type engine. I would advise you to have work done by an experienced Subaru mechanic. Otherwise, an unknowing mechanic, can, and will make mistakes at your expense.

I agree, brake fluid is really generic stuff. IMO, it doesn't matter what brand you buy. DOT 3 rating is the one to buy for normal driving. DOT 4 has higher heat performance, but not needed unless you drive in mountains, or do street or track racing to really heat up the brakes. Important to replace the cap tightly on the brake fluid bottle, when storing for future use. Brake fluid readily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, and moisture is not something that you want to introduce into your brake system.

A used ECU from a yard is inexpensive, from what I have read on this forum over the years.

I have bought and used a GMB water pump in the past with no problems.

I agree the KBYs are prolly the most popular replacement strut. I have used them for years on various cars with great results. Recently put on a pair of KYBs to the rear of my 99 OBW. I bought them from FCP Euro, Milford, CT. Grand total came to $153.86. This included 2 ea. Suspension Strut Bellows (dust covers), free shipping, and no tax. Prolly about the same cost for your 90 Subie. Shop the internet auto parts stores. Most carry KYBs in stock.

I agree with the others. Replacement head gaskets lasting only 10K miles is a strong indication that the head gasket work was not done correctly. I am guessing the work was done at an independent shop that didn't know what they were doing. Replacing HGs on a Subie is not like replacing HGs on a Chevy small block.

Your new 2015 will be a real nice car. Enjoy!!

It is unusual for a Subaru to develop bad valves. As Imdew posted, it is better to do the basics first. It is not difficult to change the spark plugs yourself on a 2.2 motor, and also the plug wires. Doing these two things just might fix your problem.

Yea, I have sold several cars via Craig's List. Seems like there is always someone, who wants to make a low ball offer, or if the car is more valuable, then there are the scammers to deal with. However, if you are patient with Criag's list, and renew your listing frequently, you will eventually be able to sell the car. You may also want to consider listing the car in "car for sale," category, and also listing it in the "car parts for sale" category on Craig's list. Curious to learn what new car you ordered??

UEL header stands for "unequal lengthy Header," which producers the thump, thump, thump sound in the exhaust system of a WRX, you like to hear.

Good reason not to drive a VW.