Rooster2

My opinion, I am currently using Bosch wires and plugs with no problems. I use the Platinum plugs, the base model with only one electrode, not the ones with two or four hooks.. Don't recommend Duralast wires. I used them on my previous Legacy, and they shorting out within a year. Others have reported the same thing.

I like the lower doors with Woody Grain, and also on road wheel spokes. What are you using?? Is it sticky wood grain contact vinyl that you cut, and stick on, then press out the air bubbles under the contact vinyl??

Valuable post for someone wanting to swap doors. Nice to know they fit.

So doors fit, did you have to swap glass??

hmmmmm........somehow I thought Washington State. Don't know how I missed that.

I just replaced my fuel tank filler neck. All the on line auto parts stores sell filler necks. Better to get a new one, then buy a rusted one from a wrecking yard, because that is what you find living in the North.

Unsure why you need a new battery cable. If there is a battery cable problem, it is usually because of a corroded connector making a bad electrical connection at the battery or starter. The cable itself seldom goes bad. Last year, my positive battery connector needed replacing. I bought a new connector, which I attached to the cable, and all is well. Clean off any corrosion at either end of the cable. When finished, go to most any auto parts store, ask the counter guy if he will check out the charging system on your car with his tester machine. Stores like Autozone or Advance Auto parts will do this service at no charge out in the parking lot of their store. Then you know for sure if there is any issue with the battery, alternator, or wiring

Random miss-fires are always difficult to track down. I recently had the same problem with my 99 OBW. It has the same engine as yours. I suspected a fuel problem, with maybe some bad gas with water in it. So, when I filled up with gas, I put a gallon of E-85 ethanol (gasohol) in to absorb any moisture, then filled the rest of the tank with unleaded. That helped some. Later, I changed the fuel filter, and that helped a lot. I also swapped in a new fuel tank filler neck, as I knew that mine had rust holes in it. That seemed to help some too. With poor fuel tank pressurization, the motor won't run right. Out of doing all of that, my 99 is running good again with no cold motor bucking, or hesitation.

Wow, you have created a very nice Woody. I, too, have a 98 OBW Limited, so I relate to all the work you have done. The Limited model has much more factory sound proofing then the standard OBW. I also have a 99 OBW, so I really notice the sound proofing difference. Also, the leather seats are so much more comfortable then the standard cloth seats. Keep an eye on the engine temp gauge at all times, as the 2.5 in your car is prone to blowing head gaskets, and over heating. Both my Outbacks have done that. Any thought of adding Woody tape to the lower half of the doors?? I think that would look nice.

weak starter?? clean battery connections at battery, and at starter.

I think you can swap intake manifolds to correct the egr problem.

The 3.0 has a timing chain, not a timing belt like the 4 cylinder motors. So no t/b change needed. I have read that changing the spark plugs on each bank near the firewall is difficult. Gas millage is less then for 4 cylinder models, but power is more. No surprise here. Reports I have heard and read, is that the 3.0 motor is very reliable.

Final update..............installed a replacement filler pipe neck to gas tank of my 99 OBW. I encountered confusion on buying the correct part on line. What's listed to fit a 96-99 OBW did not fit my car. What did fit, was the part made to fit the 2.2 motor, but I have the 2.5 motor. Seems there are number of changes for the 99 model, that were different from the 98 model, though both cars look the same. Go figure?????????

Yea, bet the WRX/STI guy gave you one confused look. He has to know what a WRX/STI sounds like, and it does sounds like no other car. To have your OBW come close to that exhaust note, he has to have thought............What the F......how can this be?????? Has this guy dropped in a WRX or STI engine???? RTV silicone can have many uses, but it is a sealant, not made for stress, or weight bearing applications. Yea, leather is hot in the summer, cold in the winter, it just doesn't breath like cloth. Still, it is the leather seat design, and unique foam padding that makes it so much better to sit on for a lengthy period of time.

Okay, so UEL translates to unequal length. Now why didn't I think of that?? You should be able to use something like JB Weld to seal up any minor exhaust leaks on the header. I have had good luck doing that in the past. I can tell you are getting a lot of satisfaction and giggles with your fake hot rod exhaust on your 97 OBW. BTW, my 99 OBW is the same exterior paint color as your car. Subie sold a lot of cars pained that blue/green. I can tell your car from the pixs is a 97 model. The 97's had that large grab bar on the outside of the back hatch door. Later years don't have that grab bar. A nice upgrade to any OBW is the addition of front leather seats, if not already so equipped. They are just so much more comfortable then the cloth seats. Look around wrecking yards, and you can find them.

Yea, I like that sound......got some character and attitude to it. Your UEL hearders must be of unequal pipe lengths to produce the "rumble rumble" throbbing sound. I think that is how the exhaust note is produced on the WRX and STI motors.

WOW, and only 4 left available for purchase. After reading that sales pitch, I knew I needed to buy at least 20 of those perfect parts. What sold me was.........."The Rubber wont rub off on your hand like the cheap replacement parts offered by competitors." Reminded me of those really old M&M chocolate candy commercials with the line, that "the candy that melts in your mouth, not in your hand." That's the worst marketing BS product description ever!!!!!

Yea, now I see what you have done with a second clamp. IMO, if you added a hanger before the muffler, you would not have to worry about the muffler falling down, even if the pipes disconnected, the hanger would hold up the muffler to prevent it from dragging on the pavement. It looks like you are using a pipe size adapter to mate a different size pipe to the inlet of the muffler. IMO, I would consider adding another muffler clamp, as insurance to tighten up the pipe joint. Clamps are cheap, so what the heck. Since you live in NY state, expect salt rust to attack the pipe, especially the pipe adapter. Sounds crazy, but some rust will help tighten up the pipe connections as well. I would like to hear the exhaust sound with your custom system. Can you up load a video with sound to this forum? Bring it on!! Another thought, in the past with this type of work, I have used anti-seize compound on surfaces, where I slid one pipe inside another. The anti-seize acts as a lubricant to slide the pipes together for a smooth fit, and also years later, it helps in pulling the pipes apart for any future work.

Over the years, I have done my share of red neck custom exhaust work and repairs. IMO, I think it is possible to attach the muffler to the pipe with muffler clamps without welding. I looked at your photo to gather some thoughts. I would recommend installing a pipe hanger at the junction of the pipe and muffler, as help is needed to support the pipe & muffler weight, and also to keep the pipe and muffler from flexing at the connection, where by it could work itself loose. I suggest using 2 muffler clamps, if there is enough room, where the pipes join to gain more clamping strength. Attach the hanging strap to one of the muffler clamp You may need to drill a hole in the under side of the body to attach the end of the hanging strap. Be sure to use a rubber insulator on the hanger, or else the exhaust vibration from the exhaust system will get transmitted to the car body, and be felt everywhere inside the car.

I have had good luck with Advance Auto Parts with their "house brand" ceramic pads. I can't remember the trade name they are sold under, but it will be pretty obvious if you shop for them on line at Advance. BTW, with on line coupons at Advance, you can take 25% to 40% off the price by using their coupons. It is really a good deal. I have also bought rotors from Advance with no issues. Brake work is easy on a Subie.

Yep, I have done the same thing, just added a few oil filters, or what ever, to meet discount code dollar levels, or to get free shipping. Advance has the best on-line coupon discounts of any on line parts house. I once bought a car battery from them on line, found a coupon for 40% off, then went down to the Advance store, and picked it up. Crazy how you can save 40% using a coupon with them.

Yea, thank grossgary. I regularily buy from Advance Auto, and always find a good coupon to apply to the purchase. For those who don't know how to do this, Google "Advance Auto Parts Coupons," and a series of coupon codes will appear. It is well worth the effort to search out a coupon.

It has the valve thing at the top, not with the smaller metal tube. The wrong one I bought has the smaller metal vent tube that hangs down the side of the fill pipe, with no valve unit at the top. I researched some more at various on-line parts stores to see that Dorman brand part # 577-086 looks like the correct part. On some websites, it says this part fits only 2.2 motors, others say it fits some with 2.5 motors also. I have the 2.5 motor in my 99 OBW. I will prolly gamble and order the 577-086 through Advance Auto Parts. If it doesn't fit, it is not a hassle to return, like it would be if trying to return to Parts Geek. Thanks for all the advise.

I did a lot of research at various auto parts stores on line to buy a replacement fuel filler tube for my 99 OBW. I ordered what was suppose to fit a 97, 98, and 99 OBW. I had my doubts that I may not be getting the correct part, though all parts stores said a certain part number was correct. Well, tonight I attempted to install the part, only to learn that it is not the correct part. Anyone out their in Subie land have this problem in the past. If so, what is the correct part? I am going to check to see if a 2000 OBW filler tube will fit. Thanks for any help.

Nice find, and nice work to getting that motor running well again. Cars gone from part unit, to daily driver. Like to read stories like this.