Rooster2
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Everything posted by Rooster2
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Sounds like you are into doing things yourself, since you have already worked at sourcing retrofit adapters. If it were me, I would simply use the low port adapter only. I would add 2 cans of 12 oz size to an empty system of 134a refrigerant, using one of those cheap hoses with a gauge on the end. Don't bother to find the high port adapter. I assume since the adapters are available, then the small 12 oz. cans of 134a are available to buy. I have done the above conversions a number of times with good results. The existing lubrication oil in the system for R-12 is not the best for R-134a. It is better to replace with PAG or Ester oil that is made for 134a refrigerant. You don't say if the system leaks refrigerant or not. If so, you may need to replace some of the O rings that may be leaking. I have some other thoughts too, but prolly better to contact me direct..........fish6525@gmail.com............(Rooster2)
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replace fuel filter first, see it that helps. If not, then suspect fuel pump as dinky suggests.
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more likely spring is bad, not strut.
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Only thing I can think of is to make sure your antifreeze offers protection down to -20 to -25. You can buy a cheap antifreeze tester at any auto parts store. Ez to operate, ez to read the result. You will need to have a battery in good condition. An old weak battery will let you down when temp is below zero.
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Your post is in the correct forum.
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I too recommend finding one in a wrecking yard. Once you remove one from a wrecking yard, you will know how to remove from your car. As heartless stated, you will need to remove the door panel for access.
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Yea, auto stores like Autozone sell the exhaust system reducers, which can be bolted to an exhaust system using muffler horse shoe shaped clamps. I have used them, but they don't last much more then a year. Guess they are made from cheap steel that rusts and breaks. I recommend going to a family owned muffler shop, not the large chain stores like Midas, or Car-X. like Bratman86 said, you can get the muffler welded on for cheap, like $30. Yea, a cherry bomb glass pack will add some nice sound too, and not sound like one of those lousy fart can mufflers.
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Your speedo will read maybe 1-2 mph lower then before. No big deal, speedos aren't exactly precise to begin with. Are you sure the "two size larger" tires will fit your car without rubbing the suspension or fenders? There would be a greater potential of this on the front, as the wheels get turned, and more apt to rub something.
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Thanks for all the advise. Both wipers move when pulling just one up or down on the windshield. Now that I think about it, last winter the wipers were frozen to the windshield with snow and ice. The wipers had been left on from driving earlier, so turning on the engine, turned on the wipers. However, they were frozen and couldn't move. I have to think that has caused the problem. I broke something. Now suspect broken plastic bushings, per all suggestions.
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The wipers on my OBW have taken to slapping the bottom and top of the windshield. Wipers still work okay, but the noise is annoying. I now notice that when the wipers are turned off, that I can grap a wiper and move it up and down 3-4" before feeling resistance. Something seems wrong?? Maybe my wiper transmission gearing, or whatever, is worn to permit this extra movement. Anyone ever experience this?? I am thinking a replacement the wiper transmission. Is this reasonable??
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Recommend Ohtsu tires. They are made in Japan, and also sell under the Falken tire brand. Ohtsu model 7000 tires sell for about $50 each, so a set bought through someone like Simple Tire on line can deliver the tires for about $250, including shipping cost. Have someone like Wal-mart install cheaply. The best thing about Ohtsu tires is that they are great tires for a low price. I installed a set of 4 on daughter's Jeep Wrangler, and they perform just super. I highly recommend this unknown brand. Log onto Simple Tire.......... https://simpletire.com
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Just glad to help..........Larry (Rooster2)
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Don't think there is any difference between 134 and 134a. It is all the same product. Use a Schrader valve tool to tighten the valve. Good chance it is just loose, or partially depressed. There is no O ring at the valve. If that doesn't fix the leak, then the valve insert spring may need to be replaced.
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Doubt that it is fixable, when they break internally like that. Dealer, e-bay motors, or wrecking yard would be good sources for a replacement. Here's a link on e-bay motors on a visor for sale, right side also for sale, hope this helps.. 05-09 06 07 Subaru Legacy Left Driver Sun Visor 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 #7581
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Recommend a timing belt kit sold on e-bay motors. Kits include belt, pulleys, tensioner, at a good price, and of good quality. That's what I put on my 99 OBW, when HGs went south about 3 years ago. All has held up well. Subaru OEM pulleys and tensioners are expensive.
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Along with the timing belt, I would recommend changing the pulleys and tensioners associated with the timing belt. Also, change the water pump. I hope the car was not driven much or multiple times to allow the motor to over heat. Subarus can't take much of that. The block and heads warp, and connecting rod bearings become damaged. Use only Subaru head gaskets. Other brands will not hold up as well or as long.
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Unlikely you will have head gasket problems.Subaru improved head gasket design over the last ten years to correct the weakness.
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Agree, I don't think cabin filters were put on any 96 models. My 98 & 99 don't have them either.
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Thanks for the advise, I appreciate it. Rooster2
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damp humid condition doesn't seem to make any difference. My thought is to replace the filler neck, clear the CEL code, and see how the motor runs. If still acting up, then change the plug wires, and perhaps the spark plugs.
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I bought a replacement fuel tank filler neck for my 99 OBW. I haven't installed it yet. but will soon.I patched it once, but motor started hesitating and bogging down, particularly when engine is cold. That started happening when the CEL came on. Code read out indiacates evaporative fuel system problem. My question.........does the leak in the filler neck cause the driveability problems?? Thanks for any replies.
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Dave, Welcome to USMB forum. You have picked a good place to ask your questions. Lots of good people here, who know a lot about Subies. My wife and I have two Subies, that I keep running by the grace of God, and good advise from here. From my years of reading here, either a 4 or 5 year old Forester or Outback would be desireable cars. All Subies are built tough, and really don't break down, if given proper maintenance. The problem with Subarus blowing head gaskets has pretty much been corrected, that was about there only weak point. All Subarus are easy to get a wrench on, with the exception of changing spark plugs, that is difficult, but not something done often. Changing belts, alternator, or starter is very easy to do. Changing brake pads is straight forward, easy to do.
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If it were me, I would go to an independent family owned muffler shop, that does the custom torch pipe cut off, bends new pipe, and weld on new pipes and mufflers. Check on line, or in the phone book yellow pages in your city for an independently owned muffler shop near you. A shop like that will replace only what needs to be replaced on your exhaust system at reasonable cost. Avoid the large chain muffler shops. All they ever want to do is to completely replace everything from the cat converter on back, and charge big bucks.
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I repaired my driver seat foam in my 99 OBW last year. I went to a wrecking yard, and bought a Subaru passenger seat that had good foam. I disassembled the seat to harvest the foam. I then swapped in the foam into my driver's seat. I used cable ties to replace the hog clips securing the fabric, that I had cut off earlier It didn't take much time to do the swap out. Repaired seat looks and feels like new. Rides lots easier on my butt too.
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A schrader valve core tool is handy to have. I have one, and have used it many times. Sometimes, the schrader valve just needs to be tightened, not removed and replaced. Hmmmmmmmmmm. also possible schrader valve spring may have wrongly stayed depressed, when hose was removed, hence the WOOSH discharge. Yea, the core insert may indeed need to be replaced. Sounds like you were low on 134a, so compressor won't turn on, until refrigerant is added. The dye works pretty good, also applying soap suds on suspected areas can help find leaks. When you see bubbles form from around the suds, you know you have found a leak. Legacy needs two cans of 134a to be filled from total discharge.
