Rooster2

A schrader valve core tool is handy to have. I have one, and have used it many times. Sometimes, the schrader valve just needs to be tightened, not removed and replaced. Hmmmmmmmmmm. also possible schrader valve spring may have wrongly stayed depressed, when hose was removed, hence the WOOSH discharge. Yea, the core insert may indeed need to be replaced. Sounds like you were low on 134a, so compressor won't turn on, until refrigerant is added. The dye works pretty good, also applying soap suds on suspected areas can help find leaks. When you see bubbles form from around the suds, you know you have found a leak. Legacy needs two cans of 134a to be filled from total discharge.

Check for a leak on the aluminum tubing that runs from the bottom of the condenser up to the drier. I lost all refrigerant to a pin hole leak that developed on the tubing near the condenser. I replaced the tubing, added new O rings, and I am back in the cold.

Same thought, a disconnected vacuum hose somewhere causes what you describe. You may have a vacuum hose that is partially cut open that could be the culprit. Also agreed, the 5 speed engine prolly does not have an EGR, where as the automatic does have an EGR. That prolly will trigger a check engine light. There are ways to fix this, if it presents itself to you.

Suggest you go to "Marketplace" forum on USMB, specifically to the "Subaru Stuff Wanted" section and list what you want to buy. Maybe someone there has what you want.

I recently had the same problem with my OBW, a frozen slide pin. I bought a remanufacturerd caliper from Advance Auto Parts on line, that included a kit with new pins and parts. Left side part number SLC 9357, or right side part number SLC 9356. Cost is $75, however, 30% - 40% on line coupon from Advance reduces the price by quite a bit. I was very impressed with the quality, and cleanliness of the caliper, and complete accessories. Highly recommend it.

I wrote the original Trans-X topic 6 years ago, and my 99 with delayed auto shift engagement is still going strong. I need to replace the Trans-X about once a year to renew its properties to keep my tranny running great. I am surprised that Trans-X only lasted about 3 days in your car. Did you drain and fill the tranny 3 times, with short drives between fills, before adding Trans-X? Did you also replace the external tranny fluid filter? If not, then it is understandable that Trans-X has not worked well for you. As far as problems with swollen seals using Trans-X, I have read several reports of no problems in rebuilding the tranny, and no evidence of anything abnormal caused by Trans-X. Swollen seals don't seem to exist. Most advise on this forum is to not rebuild an old tranny, but to install a used one from a wrecking yard. Cost is low, success of transplant is good. I hope others can tell you if a Forester tranny will work. If so, you still may need to match up differential gear ratios. No big deal, just install the rear diff from a Forester for a correct match up.

If the Brighton is a wagon, then everything should fit. If your Brighton is a sedan, then I have doubts that the back seat will fit into the OB wagon. I have '97 Outback front seats in my 99 Outback, but just in the front seats only. It is simple to unbolt and swap in the seats. Just be sure to fold the seat back forward to make a seat fit through the door opening,

Hitting a curb rear hard with a front wheel can cause this problem too. Agree, something is bent.

Torque bind??

If recently replaced CV joints (half shafts) were with used rebuilt product, then that could be the problem. Rebuilt CV joints are known to be unreliable. Too often, the rebuilder just cleans the joint, adds new grease, and fastens on a new dust boot. However, if the CV joint itself is worn, then you can get the clicking sound you are experiencing, with worsening problems like you are getting when the joint heats up after driving for a while. I have had rebuilt half shafts cause trouble within a year of installation. Suggest your mechanic put the car up in the air on a lift, then check for front wheel bearing looseness by trying to move the road wheel in/out & left/right Also, have mechanic check for any front suspension looseness with the tie rods and ball joints.

Be sure to take some hand tools too, if you need to install while on the trip

Since the interior and exterior lights were good and bright, I doubt that your battery is the problem. Also, since after a wait, the car started up just fine, that is an indication that it is not the battery. Since you cleaned the battery cables and posts, that is not the problem. My instincts think it is prolly the starter, even more so, if the starter is old. It would be good it the problem would happen again, and a few light taps to the starter fixes the problem, then vote is heavily bad starter. If you are handy with a wrench, and experienced replacing starters, alternators, and such, then it might be a good idea to buy a starter, and take it with you on the 600 mile trip as insurance. If not needed, then it could be returned for a refund..............er maybe not. Parts stores don't like giving refunds on electrical parts, but doesn't hurt to ask first.

You may have a bad battery connection. Recommend you remove the battery cables, clean the battery post and cable connectors, and re-attach. There is a small wire brush tool specifically designed for this purpose. Nice to have, if you don't already have one. Also possible that the automatic gear selector wiring may be worn, so it is not getting a connection there. Could also be an issue with the starter. Start carrying a hammer with you in the car. If same problem happens again, then tap gently on the starter with the hammer. That can help the starter brushes get a better contact to start the car.

The partsgeek fuel tank filler neck for $73 is the one that suppose to fit my 99 OBW with the 2.5 motor. However, my filler neck does not have the vent tube as shown on the website, that I am aware of. Well, maybe my filler neck does use the vent tube, and the last time I removed it to patch it, I may have disconnected the vent tube from the neck, and left it attached to the car. I just can't remember. It is hard to see in the picture if the vent tube disconnects, or is constructed as part of the filler neck. Anyone know?? Parts Geek also lists # 397-07141638 and # 397-06014486 that look maybe like mine, with no vent tube, but say they are designed for the 2.2 motor. My 99 has the 2.5 motor. Any advise on how to proceed? Thanks!! Guess, I am going to have to pull the road wheel off to get a better look at exactly what I have. Don't want to order the wrong part. Does the 2.5 motor have a specific filler neck?? Does the 2.2 motor have a specific filler neck?? Any thoughts??

The partsgeek fuel tank filler neck for $73 is the one that suppose to fit my 99 OBW with the 2.5 motor. However, my filler neck does not have the vent tube as shown on the website. Well, maybe my filler neck does use the vent tube, and the last time I removed it to patch it, I may have disconnected the vent tube from the neck. I just can't remember. It is hard to see in the picture if the vent tube disconnects, or is constructed as part of the filler neck. Anyone know?? Parts Geek also lists # 397-07141638 and # 397-06014486 that look like mine, with no vent tube, but say they are designed for the 2.2 motor. My 99 has the 2.5 motor. Any advise on how to proceed? Thanks!!

Label is going to say R-134a. Use two cans if system is empty. Obviously, less if some is in the system. Watch the gauge, apply refrigerant slowly.

Yea, no question, pulling the motor is a lot easier on the back, as well as, ease of replacing things once the engine is out. When installing the motor, be aware of the need to properly "seat" the tranny and torque converter. Failure to do so, ruins the tranny. Chances are you already know this.

I lived in Japan from 69-71, and remember seeing little trucks like this on the road. Scary little things even back then. Don't even think about running into anything, let alone a head-on with another vehicle. Surprised, some made their way to the shores of the U.S.

Not so sure you have to remove the engine. I had the HGs replaced on my 99 OBW a couple of years back. I had a Subie dealer tech guy do the work as a moon light project. He never removed the engine. I think he loosened engine mounts, and dropped exhaust at the front, then jacked up each side for HG access. Sounds easier then removing the engine. At same time, he replaced the water pump, timing belt, pulleys, and thermostat. He also replaced the A/C, and alternator belts.

Don't know anything about the wiring, but do know that it is a 2 man job. The tail gate is heavy as hell. Takes two guys to carry it, including someone to hold it as you unbolt it.

Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it. If your yard has cars up off the ground, so you can easily get underneath the car, then pulling the filler tube off is no big deal. If car is mired in mud up to the axle, then you wouldn't even want to think about removing the fuel tank filler neck. I clicked on the partsgeek link. I haven't bought anything from them. I have seen their prices are good, but read some reports on the internet that their customer service is poor. That scares me off. It would be my luck to order, and then have an issue, and Parts Geek would be unresponsive.

My 99 OBW has holes in th efuel filler tube. Last fall, I removed it to find it in bad shape. I had a friend weld strips of metal around rusted out areas. That has held up until now, but I am sure the new CEL is advising the tube is bad again, as the code refers to the evap fuel system. I listed on the "parts wanted" section of this forum, my wanting to buy a new or used tube, but no response. Is this a dealer only part, and not available at part stores? I prolly could find a replacement at a local wrecking yard, but with winter salty roads here in Indiana, I have my doubts on finding a good one at a wrecking yard. Anyone have advise?? Thanks, Larry (Rooster2)

Here in the U.S. Trans-X is available at most auto parts stores, and even Wal-Mart. Prolly best to call some stores to ask if they stock the product. Can't believer it is not available in Canada. I do know it is petroleum based, so it cannot be sent thru the postal system. If you find it, buy the smaller 15 oz bottle, not the larger 32 oz bottle. Don't know what that converts to in metric sizing where you live.

good idea to use JB. Recommend you clean the application spot as much as possible. Apply, then, let car sit over night to dry the JB, before driving again.

I checked the map. Located on the Canadian side close to Montreal.