Rooster2

consider checking the timing??

I heard they retired within the last year or two...........so it is re-runs you are hearing for sure.

IMO......Unless it is a matter of wanting "bling," going from a 15" wheel to a 16" wheel is just not worth the added cost. I am confident that size 205/65r15 will fit without any rubbing issues, or any speedo issue. Over the years, I have always gone one size larger on tires to put a little more rubber on the road, and never had any issue. For example...........on my 99 OBW, OEM size is 205 X70 X 15. I went to 215 X 70 X 15 with no problems.

Nice work........liked your creativity with tools, jacks, etc to reassemble. It can be amazing what can be creatively done, when you simply have to get the work done, no matter what. I bet if you think back, you are amazed at how you did this work. On Subies, an alignment is always a 4 wheel alignment, but I don't know what alignment procedure is done on the rear wheels. Disc brakes can be retrofitted on a Subie. I have read how others have done this, and secured the parts from a yard. IMO, disc brakes work better, and are much easier to maintain. Replacing shoes on drum brakes is something I always had trouble doing correctly. I have replaced OEM with KYB struts, and have always been pleased. They ride a tad stiffer, last a long while, and are priced right. Enjoy your Subie!!

Saw these struts on e-bay auto parts...........http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251373727083?limghlpsr=true Hope this is of value.

You should be able to use the palm of your hand to compress the strut, when it is held in place. It should not be so rigid, that you can't move it.

For what it is worth........years back replaced rear struts on a VW by myself, and found using a small bottle jack with small stackable pieces of a 2 X 4 a big help. This I used as an adjustable height platform to rest the jack on. This worked great to jack up, and hold in place the strut unit for bolting. It was like having an extra arm, and hand to assist in the bolt up process. Hope this idea helps.

I started this topic 6 years ago, and want to report back that Trans-X still fixes the delayed forward engagement problem. Over the years, I realize that Trans-X will fix the problem for about 12-18 months, then the lazy forward shifting returns. Today, I drained the tranny and added the additive, and Trans-X has my tranny shifting forward immediately with no hesitation once again.

Yea, I have had the same trouble. Order or store buy after market parts that say they will fit, but won't. Nothing worse then to be in the middle of a repair project, then find out you are screwed by having a wrong part.

Dealer parts are always high quality, but expensive. Some things like head gaskets, I buy from dealer only. Parts Geek is a reputable company. I would trust that their expansion valve for $15 would be good.

Every car on the link was right hand drive, so not easy to drive in the USA. 25 years ago, there were a number of cars that were imported as "grey market" vehicles. They had to be updated to US approved specs to be state registered. It was difficult back then, prolly just as difficult now. Hardly worth the effort imo.

Diagnosing brake trouble on a Subie is not rocket science. Does your e-brake still work?? The e-brake, and brake system is just a simple, no nonsense design that anyone who has worked on brake jobs can figure out. If this turns out to be a brake problem, any reputable shop can fix this for prolly less then $200.

Agreed, a burned valve does not produce an intermittent problem. It would produce a constant reminder that something was wrong. You may want to consider renting a car for your trips. Shopping car rental agencies on line with discount codes can produce some good low rates. Makes a long trip more fun driving a new car.

+1 on problem being bad head gaskets. I too, suspect that the thermostat has been removed to mask over the problem of over heating due to bad head gaskets.

So would the next step be to top it off with refrigerant and use a dye to see where it might be leaking or is there a way to directly test the compressor?.............imo, this is the next step to take. It sound like your A/C system is low on refrigerant. I have experienced this in the past, and found that charging up the system fixed the problem, and, or points out that when charging the system produces cold A/C, then it is likely that a bad O ring(s) will allow your refrigerant to leak out. Hope these thoughts help.

What year, models will fit a 98, if I go to a yard to search for one??

Wow..........for a $1,000 job, that sounds like a lot of money for exactly what work do they propose?? Is the problem with the hub or the rotor??

I have read that the seals go bad in Subie P/S pumps. Guess that is my problem. How difficult is it to replace the seals? Is it better to go to a Pull-A-Part yard, and just buy a replacement pump? If so, what year& model Subies would have a compatible pump? Thanks.....Larry (Rooster2)

There would be huge compatibility problems swapping motors. The wiring and computer control systems are so very different. None of it would be plug and play.

Yea, sounds like low on refrigerant. You may have a slow leak, but not terribly bad, if some refrigerant is still in the system. System holds 2 cans. Adding one can may not be enough. Be sure to add refrigerant at the low port. It will prolly have an (L) embossed on the port cap. I know mine does. When adding 134 turn on A/C, set fan on high, and dash slide lever to coldest position. Let us know if this works.

I would bet the farm that the 225 X 60 X 17 will fit. Going from a 55 to 60 series tire is minimal difference. Speedo may be off by only 1 or 2 mph at most, that is no big deal. I have had a bunch of cars that I always went one size larger, and never had any trouble with the tires rubbing suspension or body work. Currently on my 99 OBW, I am running 215 X 70 15" tires. They replaced 205 X 70 X 15" size tire that were OEM to the car. The important thing is that all four tires need to be the same size on an all wheel drive Subie. For sure, you will not have any trouble getting the tires to fit your stock wheels, as both size tires are 17" going on 17" wheels.. Some tire stores get obstinate about installing a tire size that is different from OEM. If that happens, go to Wal-Mart, they will install, and balance the tires without hesitation.

Good to hear that you got fire to 3 & 4. Gotta make you feel good.

On oil filters.......the smaller oil filters do a good job. Not aware of any after market larger ones, or need for a larger one. No, you don't have to use a Subaru OEM oil filter, others will work well. Recommend Purolator, Wix, Napa (really a Wix filter). IMO, don't recommend Fram filters. The crush washer is used on the drain plug, not the oil filter. I re-use mine, but you are inviting a drip or two leakage. You don't say if you bought new or used. Subaru head gaskets have gotten a lot better. It is no longer a situation of needing replacement at 100K miles. Enjoy your new ride, and great to have you as a new member on USMB.

Not sure what you mean by "top tank?" You need to fix the coolant leak by what ever means. Suspect turbo power dissipates, when the motor over heats.

Last Fall my filler pipe rusted out to throw a CEL. Yea, there is a good share of road salt used in Indiana during winters. I had a buddy remove the pipe, and found a rusted mess. The weather was getting too bad to find one in a yard. He is a good welder, so he welded strips of metal over the holes on the pipe. He reinstalled the pipe, and threw away the pipe cover. The finished repair worked like a champ. No more CEL.