Rooster2

IIMHO, it may be easier, and better at this junction to replace the tranny with a good used one from a w-yard. They aren't that expensive, and installation isn't that difficult. Broken Subie automatics aren't worth repairing.

When I lived in Cleveland, Ohio, there was e-check once a year. A car had to pass the emissions check to get new tags. Guess that for the Cleveland area, but may not apply to Columbus? I have read on this forum that a OBD1 motor can be used (if that is your case) by bolting on OBD2 parts. I think it has to do mostly with an OBD2 intake manifold being swapped onto the motor. Someone on this forum can prolly tell you more specifics on this. You will need to know that your mechanic is competent about bolting up your new engine to your tranny. I am guessing you have an auto tranny, and it is very important that the tranny gets properly "seated" before before being bolted up. Failure to do proper seating ruins the automatic transmission. You don't want to be buying a tranny because of a mechanics incompetence.

Sounds like brake rotor(s) that are warped and out of round, even though you say previous owner replaced the rotors and pads. If you have a bad caliper that does not fully release the brake, the rotor can over heat and warp.

I had a 91 Subie, that blew a head gasket, and would over heat. I don't know what exactly led up to this, as it was my wife's car. I was good on up keep, but never did know what led up to the HG failure The 2.2 motor had about 165K mile when it developed this problem. This was highly unusual for a 2.2, but it can happen. To tell the difference between a water pump and head gasket, look for bubbles in the radiator catch reservoir, after motor is warmed up to operating speed. Also, check first to see if the radiator is full of coolant. If so, when motor is warm, look under the motor for coolant leaking from the water pump. $400 is a decent price for a 93 Subie that is running well. If me, I would see if the buyer would take less because of the obvious coolant leaking problem. There is also the concern that the motor may have been run over heated for who knows how many times. So, there could be other serious that could crop up soon. You are taking a gamble on the health of the motor.

I am sure that you got it right. The seat color you like with the red stripping was 96 & 97. The plain gray is 98 & 99. I have the plain gray theme in my 99 OBW.

anything is possible, but this would be terribly impractical. You are far better off to buy a car that already has a turbo. It would be money far wiser spent.

He responded earlier on his post.................."I got it for $1700, bid but paid $2400 with all the taxes and fees..".........

You now have the same set up that I have...........a 98 OBW Limited with a transplanted 2.2 from 1995. Mine was done about 3 years ago. It is my wife's daily driver. She is happy with the car, and motor has held up beautifully. I notice the 20 less HP, but the 2.2 seems smoother when running, when compared to the 2.5. Hope your transplant works out well.

Yes, the dove grey seats were standard on the "Limited" model Outbacks of 97-99. I have also seen them in the up scale Legacy sedans of that same time frame.

I have owned an early 90's Legacy, and now own 2 Outbacks, a 98 and a 99. The 90-94 series had nice velour covered seats (sort of mouse fur) that are comfortable, the 95-99 had either a choice of cloth or leather seats. The cloth seats are not so great. The foam packs down over time, and gets uncomfortable to sit on. From a comfort stand point the leather seats are great. Some time back, I did see super nice comfortable seats in a late 90's sports sedan model. Car was in a j-yard. It was prolly a late early '00s - '03 Legacy sedan. I am not much on colors, textures, and what is pleasing to the eye. It is what feels best on my back side that I want to sit on, that I go for. My 99 had cloth seats, that I swapped out for leather seats from a 97 that I found in a j-yard. They bolted right in. I really like them.

Lots written about doing this. Look under "search" for past postings on this subject.

Every car with A/C has a moisture drain tube. Drive on a hot day with A/C on, then stop on your driveway, and you can see the water spot form under the engine. The drain tube on a Subie is near the firewall. They can seal off, and back up with moisture, and that may be very well what you have. It may even just be a piece of ice causing the blockage.

Surprisingly, the original post does not say that the insurance company considers it a total loss. She says they want to pay her $5,000, as crazy as that may seem. If so, she would not have to get a salvage title.

Okay, so it is not snow on the floor, as the source of moisture. Do you have a sun roof? Drain tubes from a sun roof have been known to deposit moisture, but always down on the floor. If through the vents.........can you put the car in a heated garage to melt down any ice or snow that is anywhere on the car? Doing so, may solve the problem.

Is it possible that you have a build up of snow, or melted snow from your shoes that you tracked inside the car to the foot wells? I have had that happen in the past. Once I dried out the floor mats and carpeting, the problem went away.

I fully agree with all the other responders. Simply buy a replacement door, and live with the rest. It should be easy to find one the same color at a wrecking yard, and easy to have someone install it for little money. I don't see any mechanical problems that need to be repaired. I am guessing the car drives just fine. I don't see an $8,000 car with $5,000 worth of damage. Is the truck at fault, so truck's insurance company proposing this settlement? I don't read that the insurance company is "totaling" the car, so it is not a matter of your "buying back" the car to settle the claim. If that is the case, you would get to keep the car, plus get a cash settlement in the deal. Is the insurance company willing to send you a check for $5,000, or just willing to pay for body shop repairs? If they are willing to send you a check for $5,000, then take that deal for sure. This sounds too good to be true, but take the money, and smile, as you take the check to the bank for deposit. Let us know how you come out on this deal. By the way, I drive a 99 Outback, same color as yours. Small world!

There is a warming trend coming your way early next week. Weather forecast says temps in the 40's for you. That should melt out any snow, that could make the noise. Until then, going through a car wash would help with snow and ice removal. I have never had a wheel bearing make warbling noise, but who knows.

well said..............spot on advise!!

IMHO, JDM motors are expensive, particularly when shipping cost is added in.

Since you have good heat in the cabin, your thermostat is just fine. Don't need to replace it.

To me a good starting point is to return the engine coolant temperature sensor that you just installed, and get a new one. Tell them you think it is the source of a low temp gauge read out. If the problem started with the engine coolant temperature sensor then putting in another one may well fix it.

Replacing the radiator is an easy do it yourself job, if you are half way handy with a wrench. You can buy a radiator on line for about $125. Ask us if you need advise on installing a replacement radiator. Lots of people here to help you. I drive an Outback, so not familiar with a Forester. Still, the tranny dip stick will be found up near the firewall. Hope that is where you found it.

Do you have good heat in the car?? There is no calibration of dash gauge to new sensor. It may just be coincidence this has happened with new sensor installed, but it sounds like your thermostat is bad

If tranny is diagnosed as bad, the advise I have continually read on this forum, is that it is better to replace the tranny with one from a wrecking yard, rather then have the existing tranny repaired. Used trannys from a yard can be bought for not much money. I hope your auction buy, got you the car on "the cheap," so you can afford repairs on the deal.

The blower motor may not work because it is full of leaves and crud that prevent it from working. If so, cleaning out the mess generally gets the blower to work again. That is what I found out some time back.