Rooster2

I don't know that I would spend much money on doing body work on a 17 year old car, in hiring the body man to do a cut and weld. It appears from the photos that the rust is entering the trunk from the outside, and rusting inward. I would just go with some rust proof paint, grill paint, or whatever, applied to the inside and outside, and call it a day. Yes, it will probably start to rust more in the future, but sealing off the rusted area will slow down the advancement of future rust.

The Rock Auto Beck Amsley boots priced at $14.23 is what I ordered. Actually ordered two each at that price, thinking the boot on the other side may be shot as well, but had not looked to see if it was broken or not. Cost $30 to ship, a pretty good deal over all.

The $54 quote for tie rod boot, must have been for an entire kit of tie rod, boot, and hardware to secure the boot. I told the parts counter guy that I wanted a boot only, and my understanding is that the part has been the same on Subarus throughout the 90's into the early 2000 models. No, he insisted that he needed the car vin number, saying there were several boots during that time period. This counter guy came across as dumb, lazy, and really didn't care if he served my needs or not. I walked out of the dealership thinking the guy is just a real richard cranium. Such is life!

The 2.2 motor can develop bad head gaskets, though it is not a common problem. I had that happen on a 91 Leggie years ago. As many have said, look for bubbles in the radiator over flow container. If bubbles seen, then it is head gasket trouble.

Thanks guys, I put in an order to Rock Auto. They have exactly what I want.

Your 2.5 motor is prone to have head gasket problems. I have a 99 OBW with the same engine. It started to over heat like yours. Keep an eye on the temp gauge, when you see the temp going up, stop if you can, open the hood and look if the radiator over flow tank has bubbles in it. If so, then you will know for sure that it is head gasket trouble. Lots written on this subject on this forum, and can be accessed using the "search" feature on top right of the forum page. Don't drive with the motor over heating, it will warp aluminum parts badly, and ruin your engine. Let it cool down, or have it towed if necessary before driving again.

I went to the Subie dealer and presented the above part number, which the parts counter guy did not recognize. He said he needed the VIN number, and came up with # 5426, when I called back with the VIN. He quoted me $54.XX plus tax for a boot only, or maybe it came as part of a tie rod kit, he didn't say, and I did not ask. That cost seems high, so I declined. Seems like parts sources where I have checked, what to sell the tie rod and boot as a kit, I just need the boot only. Guess, I will look around some more.

Thanks guys for all the info.............I appreciate it.

My inner tie rod dust boot on driver's side is blown out. How do I replace it, and source boot only?? Advance Auto Parts sells the boot only when replacing the tie rod, as part of a kit. Thanks, Rooster2

Well, I wouldn't write off this car as a total rust bucket. Just so happens that I have a 98 OBW. It is not rusty underneath, but had the rear brake lines rust out, and started leaking when new rear struts were installed. I had new brake line spliced in, and all is well. As idosubaru posted, a 98 with a 5 speed is probably a 2.2 motor, and does not have the head gasket problems that a 98 2.5 motor would have. Suggest you take this car somewhere, where you can get it up on a lift, so you can inspect it underneath for rust. If rust is not bad, this car may still have some life in it.

Sounds like either the battery or alternator. Yes, new batteries can still be bad. Suggest you charge the battery, then drive to a parts store as above poster has recommended. No need to pull the alternator, if a parts store is nearby. Have them check the battery and alternator with their equipment to see if both check out good.Stores do not charge for this service done in their parking lot.

I had the same problem with my '91 years back. I replaced the P/S pump with one from a yard, and that fixed the problem.

Nope..........it looks like it needs replacing. LOL Me thinks it is OEM original, and spent its life in the rust belt. I have a 99, that I replaced the struts all around about 3 years ago, that were originals. What came off looked nothing as bad as yours.

If I remember correctly, the GT model has 14" tires and wheels, where as the Outback in 99 ( I own one) has 15 " wheels, with OEM size 205 X 70 X 15" tires. A set of Outback alloy wheels should be fairly easy to find as an upgrade. I have gone to 215 X 70 X 15" tires. It gives me about another inch of ground clearance, and a slightly wider tire foot print to the pavement.

If it were me, I would add a can of 134A freon to the low port of your A/C system. It is possible that the compressor will not turn on because you are low on freon. I have seen this happen on other cars, that were not Subarus.

Thanks GD for the advise.

Were the tires that you replaced at the beginning of summer wearing out in the same manner as what you are seeing on the rear tires right now? If so, the tire shop should have given you notice of this, and as others have said, advised you getting an alignment or strut replacement, before installing new tires. That is what my tire shop has done.

My friend and mechanic was checking out my car, and found a blown boot on inner half shaft. That is easy enough to fix, but then noticed that the bearing is loose and worn, where the half shaft inserts into the AT tranny. How is that bearing replaced at time of replacement of half shaft? My mechanic would like to know how. So far, there is no vibration from the worn bearing, but mechanic warned me to park the car if it starts to vibrate. Any help on how to replace that bearing would be greatly appreciated. Thanx!...................Rooster2

Nice catch.........I am always glad to hear a story like this. I drive a 99 Outback for the past 11 years now, and still like the car. Hope yours does well.

In my opinion, the head gaskets may still be okay, as it doesn't appear that you drove the car when over heating, just extra hot. I wonder why the car was low on coolant. Any sign of a coolant leak with hoses or radiator? Keep an eye on your drive way for any future evidence of additional coolant leak Regarding the rear brakes "sticking," More then likely, the slide pins are sticking, so the pads are not releasing completely from the rotor, with your foot off the brake pedal. Unless, the pads are worn down to their metal back plate, the rotor should still be good. If the slide pins are sticking, squirt PB blaster at the pin to help removal. Use anti-seize to lube the pins upon reassembly. Body parts should be available at reasonable cost at a yard or as mentioned at www.car-part.com, a nationwide network organization that wrecking yards subscribe to. It sounds like this car is repairable, so I would not write it off. Good luck to you.

Nice write-up with pixs............Thanx!

Dry off electrical components with a hair dryer, may help.

Had the same problem with my 98 Outback. Just too much soft drink spills that worked its way into the climate control buttons. Usually, I could clean out the crud with windex, but after a while that did not work very well. I would push a button, and nothing would change. Replaced with unit from wrecking yard, and all is well, except that some of the button indicator lights don't work.

Remembered someone else asked about Sensen struts some time ago on this forum or elsewhere. Response at the time was they are junk from China. Website confirms they are from China. Agree, your best move is to return the struts. KYB's are my advisement. You are correct in that KYB's manufactured about 10-15 years ago were painted silver, but moved to be painted black for some time now.

+1 on Fairtax advise. A good upholstery shop will repair the seat to "like new" condition.