Rooster2

Took my 99 to an independent shop recommended by a friend. My A/C no longer pumps cold air. I had added 134a a couple of time, and knew there was a refrigerant leak in the system. The last time I added refrigerant, it had leaked out by the next day. So, I knew the leak had gone from just a little bit, to really bad. The shop owner pointed out to me, that after doing a dye analysis, that the condenser is leaking at the bottom on the passenger side. Also, that the high pressure "pipe" connecting at the bottom corner of the condenser (very near the condenser leak) was also leaking. I could easily see the dye mark on the side of the condenser meeting where the "pipe" is threaded into the condenser. It looked to me that the "pipe" could still be good, but the shop tech said, no, the pipe is leaking too. Is this a common problem on Subies? Is it more likely that it is only the condenser that is leaking, or do the pipes have a reputation of leaking to? The shop owner quoted me $600+ for parts, but said if I wanted to, I could buy my own parts to save money, and he would install and recharge the system. So, pretty decent of him to do this, as most shops don't allow this. I did some window shopping on line for a replacement condenser, and see prices ranging from $70 to $461.00. The cheapest at $70 was from Auto Part Warehouse for their Kool Vue A/C condenser. Is that going too cheap for a condenser? The pipe I found cost $81.00 at My Subaru Parts.com., but am unsure if I really need a new pipe. Would a pipe really go bad?? Thanks for any advise or thoughts.............Rooster2...........Larry

Has the automatic transmission fluid been changed within the last 30,000 miles?? If not, suggest changing the tranny fluid 3 times, as well as the external tranny filter. I say 3 times, as only about half the tranny can be drained at one time. The remainder stays in the torque converter, and won't drain out. Changing 3 times with short drives between changes does a good job of adding fresh ATF. A change of fluid could very well fix your problem.

okay thanks.......did have a 2.5 motor, now have a 2.2 motor swapped in.

Both steering rack boots are blown on my 98 OBW, and look like they have been bad for a long time. Steering is still good, but wonder if those boots need to be replaced. I pulled back one of the broken boots, and everything looked still clean inside. I did fill up the inside of the boots with white lithium grease from a spray can. I figured that couldn't hurt. Still, how difficult is it to replace those dust boots??

I don't know, but not long ago, I took a bad EJ-25 I took to a wrecking yard as scrap. A young skinney yard worker with no visible arm muscles reached in the back of my OBW, put his arms around the motor, and lifted it over to the waiting scoop of a front end loader. I was impressed, and told him so...............Let the years roll by, and I bet the guy develops back trouble.

Lots of drivers out there that just add gas and drive. If something breaks, they fix it, but don't do any maintenace work. I think we are talking the same language, when you mention "signs of neglect." Prolly best to look all over the car for sign of neglect that need attention. I would change the tranny fluid three times, see if this improves things. If not, maybe need to swap in a used tranny.

Yea, $200 is the going price to replace a half shaft.

Well said Bushwick. I couldn't agree more with what you wrote.

I seem to remember that in 99, the Forester got the revised 2.5 motor with single over head cam. If so, it is less prone to HG problems. I hope someone confirms this.

I have a 95, 2.2 motor transplanted into my 98 OBW. The motor has a 'bullet proof" reputation for reliability. They just seldom break down. Suggest you add a can of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crank case oil, then drive a 100 mile or so, then drain, going back to motor oil only. The MMO is a product that has been on the market for decades, and does a good job of removing engine deposits, and freeing up hydraulic valve lifters. You will like that there is a drain plug to drain the ATF. Recommend doing a drain, fill three times, as about half the ATF remains in the torque converter, and can't be drained out. You use up a lot of ATF, but this technique works well. I use regular Dextron ATF, and it works just fine. Subie parts don't cost Sounds like you do your own car maintenace work. You will like the ease of doing Subie work. Most everything is readily accessable under the hood. Changing brake pads is super easy. If you need to change a brake rotor, thread a caliper bolt into the threaded hole on the face of the rotor. It is designed to accept the bolt, so threading in the bolt pushes the rotor off the hub for easy removal. You may want to get a 4 wheel alignment done on the car. Who knows how many curbs the 72 year old lady ran up against. The fuel filter is under the hood, on driver's side, sits kind of high close to the firewall. Easy to get at and replace. Pretty sure that there is a trap door on the top of the gas tank that can be accessed to r & r the fuel pump. So, tank does not need to be dropped. I have only hear of others talk about the trap door. Have fun with your "new" Subie.

The 3.0 motor has a reputation of NOT being plagued with HG issues. That motor has a timing chain, not a timing belt, so that is a big plus. Over 6 quarts of oil is prolly too much. Check the owners book, (if you have one), to learn oil oil capacity. I suspect around 5 quarts. Sounds like you scored a nice car!!

I would be concerned about running Chinese tires of who know of what quality and safety from a store that requires H rated tires at all four corners of your car for what......safety reasons??? Let me guess..........the shop wants to put those Chinese tires both front and rear. With that mentatilty and approach, I suggest you buy tires elsewhere. I don't think the tire store is looking out for your best interest, only theirs for the $$$$.

okay on the TLE. I shop Walmart often, but never knew paid any attention that their auto shop is called the Tire and Lube Express. Seldom have work done by their techs. As a group, their techs don't seem like the sharpest guys to trust doing an oil change. Though, I think that mounting and balancing tires is close to a "no brainer," and not easily screwed up.

What is Walmart TLE??

I agree with fairtax4me. It sounds like a BS sales ploy to sell you high end expensive tires. I can't imagine you driving your 92 that fast, or that hard, to ned high performance tires. Suggest you go to another tires store. For normal driving within posted speed limits, any tire will work for you. No tire company knowingly manufacturers an unsafe tire.

It sound like you really want a tire to hold up against rocks on a dirt road, not driving off road through heavy brush and fording streams. Don't think anything 5 ply is needed. I would suggest a tire with strong sidewalls to resist stone punctures, yet would be smooth on the highway. Prolly any top of the line tires from most any name brand manufacturer would fill your need. Don't recommend any tire that is off brand, as quality can be spotty, Michelin and Yokohama tires are my favorites. I thought about you going to a light truck tire, but don't think anything is available that would fit your 17" wheels. Also suggest you contact Tire Rack on line. They offer chat service to recommend tires for a specific need. I am guessing your tire size is 225 - 60 - 17". Don't know what 98T represents.

In the original post, the guy says he plans to install the motor into a non subaru vehicle. I am guessing it must be some off road vehicle So, I don't think he is concerned about a check engine light or passing emissions test.

a new seat for $2000+... it would be a very cold day, before I would ever spend that much for a new seat. That is insanity. I hope $2000+ is a typo error. If not, I would go on line to find a good used one for a lot less money.

Is this step-by-step for real?? Do you need to hold your head a certain way too?? I guess I am old school............I would have looked for a wire to disconnect.

I have never heard of a hood rusting, unless it was crumpled in an accident, and never repaired. If the hood has rusted, what is the rust condition of the rest of the car?? Can you show us pictures??

coil pack??

Do you have a sun roof?

Good picture thanks!

What most people don't know, is that the glass envelope of the bulb should not be touched with your fingers. Any amount of dirt, or tiny amount of oily residue from your fingers will cause the bulb to over heat, and burn out the bulb in a short amount of tim. If you do touch the bulb, clean by wipeing off with rubbing alcohol.

Final update............I removed dash panels to check wiring on back of dah control unit. Just for giggles, I sprayed heavily again with Windex, kept pushing all the buttons, and wiping away the Windex with a paper towel. This time, the cleaning worked. I got all buttons to work, and I could see the flap move behind the dash air outlets, to know the flap was opening and closing. I am amazed that so little dried Coke sugar syrup can disrupt the selector buttons from working properly. So all is well.......saves me a trip to a yard to buy a replacement control unit. Thanks again for all the sound advise................Larry (Rooster2)