Rooster2

Yes, I figured your AT would have the spin on filter. My guess is that it is the original that came with the car, so it needs to be changed. I think you will find it to be be on very tight, and difficult to remove. Suggest if super tight to remove using two oil filter wrenches.........one type with the metal band that slips over and down on the filter, the other type which is the "cap type," that fits over only the end of the filter. Pulling on two filter handles doubles your power to "break loose" a stubborn filter. How I fill the tranny, I drain the tranny into an empty oil catch pan. Then I pour the old AT from the catch pan into a 5 quart empty oil jug. The empty jug is marked on the side of the jug as to how much AT has been emptied into the jug. On that basis, I can pretty much tell how much fresh ATF to add to the tranny. The tranny dip stick is very hard to read upon pouring in new ATF and Trans-X. Since the ATF was added by pouring it into the dip stick tube, some of the new ATF wants to slowly drip down the tube sides to run onto the wiped off dip stick to give an uncertain fill level reading. So, I check the ATF level two or three days later, when their is no longer ATF drip down from the sides of the tube. I hope this info helps ................Rooster2

Perhaps Trans-X does work as a friction modifier, as you suggest. The product has a very low viscosity, that pours quickly like pouring gasoline. As a result, It does make the tranny shift a little bit firmer. I agree that the product's ability to correct the problem within 5 minutes of driving is not due to swelling leaky seals. It would take a lot longer to get seals to swell. Whatever ingredient in Trans-X must degrade over time, and so has to be replaced to again be effective.

My recomendation............drain and refill your tranny 3 times with at least 5 minute of driving time between changes. (Each drain is about 1 gallon + one pint of ATF.) This is recommended because only about half the tranny fluid will drain out each time. The remaining fluid stays in the torque converter, and won't drain out. Some people say to get a power flush, but I don't recommend doing this, as it could damage some internals of the AT. On the last tranny fluid change, add 15 oz of Trans-X to the tranny. Be aware that the AT dip stick is calibrated low to full at one pint, not quart like the oil dip stick, so it is very easy to over fill the tranny, which is not good. Check fluid level with engine running, and engine fully warmed up, tranny in Park selector position. New ATF and Trans-X gets added into the AT dip stick tube near the firewall. Your AT may have a spin on filter. This filter was introduced in 99, but it is possible that you have an early 99, that does not have it. It looks exactly like an oil filter, but the filter media inside the filter is different from an oil filter. The AT filter is available at an auto parts store, and of course at a Subie dealership. I have done the Trans-X treatment on several Subies, and every time, Trans-X corrects the problem within 5 minutes of driving with the product added. This still simply amazes me that the product can fix the delayed forward engagement problem so quickly. On my OBW, the Trans-X fix lasts about 1 year of driving, or roughly 10K-15K miles driven, before the shift laziness starts to return. Then, I do a single drain of ATF, and add another 15 oz can of Trans-X, and drive on for another year. On the second year, I do two drains, because I want to drain out more of the original Trans-X out of the system. I am in my fourth year of doing this, and my tranny is shifting great. Let us know how well Trans-X works out for you. I use Walmart brand ATF, which works just fine.

Same thought as I read thru all the post replies. You don't want to drive with oil diluted with raw gasoline. Best to change the oil before trying to start the motor again.

I will keep my fingers crossed that all is well. Hope you are good for many trouble free mile.s

Update...........the motor is bogging down less and less over the past several days. I added about a half a gallon of E-85 ethenol fuel to my unleaded 87 fill up. E-85 I think is prolly about the same stuff as "dry gas" in its ability to absorb moisture. I am still thinking I got a tank full of gas tainted with water. I have had this happen over the years, and remember it took driving a while to clear up the problem. Thanks for all the good advise.

No need for any name calling here. Please everyone just calm down. It is simply two approaches to fixing a tranny. One is DIY, the other is having a shop work on it. Let it be at that.

I disagree............Trans-X does fix the problem one year at a time in my experience. In my car all the "delayed forward engagement," is gone. It instantaneously shifts into D from R like it is suppose to do. Sure the underlying problem with that balky seal is still there, but Trans-X completely manages the problem, so it is not a problem. I can't say it will work on all 99 or 00 Legies. However, with all the past testimonials on this thread, there are a lot of happy Trans-X users satisfied with the results.. As you stated, your customer wants a better "actual fix." so then replacing or rebuilding the tranny is your solution. I also get that you are a mechanic, selling your service for a handsome profit, as that is your business. Selling the customer a can of Trans-X and some ATF with minimum labor charge is not what you do. Let's be clear, what it comes down to is a DYI owner working on his own car, vs a mechanic shop repair. Owners take their pick.

Thanks, I will add "dry gas" first. I am still strongly leaning towards water in the gas tank, as the problem. My plugs are Bosch Platinum, and wires are Bosch top of the line. I know people complain about Bosch, but I have never encountered any problem. I have about 10K miles on the plugs after driving on them for 1 year, maybe 5 years on the wires. The knock sensor I replaced less then 2 years ago, and knew not to over tighten the bolt, and do remember the awkward bolt on angle. What is CTS. TS probable means Temp Sensor?? Right?? Don't know what "C" stands for. What is it, and where is it located? Thanks grossgary...........you have given me great advise in the past. Thanks for your imput on this problem. Regards................Rooster2

Engine has been running great, until last week, when engine started to bog down, but doesn't stall. It is worse when the engine is less then fully warmed up, and accelerating from a stop light. If I slightly pump the gas pedal, I can get the engine to "catch" to get beyond the bog down problem. Driving at 30 mph+, I have no problem. I have NO CEL to tell me what the problem is. My thought is that I may have gotten a bad tank of gas. Maybe some water came with that tank of gas. Since then, I have refilled the tank, but still have the problem. I am thinking of adding a can of "dry gas." Maybe that will fix the problem. Is it possible to have a bad cold temp sensor? Should I be cleaning the MAF sensor? I just need to fix this before the driveability gets worse. Thanks for any advise.

I have replaced auto antennas before, but not on a Leggie. Your main issue is matching up the antenna mount with the existing hole drilled in the body work, if that is your thought. I had a 91 Leggie wagon, and remember that the antenna mount was through the roof. You don't want to do something that ruins the water proof seal to allow rain water to enter the roof of your car, and get the car interior wet. Also, snaking the new coax cord down from the roof to the back of the radio would be challenging. Upon that thought, you prolly will be better off mounting the shark fin somewhere else. Suggest you look at the mounting instructions for the shark fin. I bet the instructions can give you ideas on how, and where to install. A front fender is not very cool looking location, but does give ready access to the top and bottom of the fender for installation, and makes it easy to snake the coax through the firewall to gain entry to the car interior.

Trans-X has worked well for me for a year, then drain & fill with new ATF, and add Trans-X will give me another year of good service. I have been doing this for 4 years now. This bottle fix sure costs less then a whole trans tear down. With 204K miles on my odo, it is hard to justify throwing big bucks at my car for repairs.

The 2001 Outback in my opinion is the better choice. A motor with a reputation of higher reliability. vs the 99 model. I hope you can get a good deal on the 2001.

Like others have said...........nice car................with concerns. I own a 99 OBW, that has the same drive train as the SUS you are looking at. Yep, my car blew the head gasket. I caught the problem early, seeing the temp gauge rising, shutting off the motor before the motor would over heat. You just don't know the history of how the motor was treated, when it blew it's head gasket. How many times, and how long, it was driven while over heating? If the motor was abused this way, then it's future life has been shortened. The 99 model auto tranny is prone to "delayed forward engagement." It presents itself when shifting from R to D. The tranny will be lazy shifting into D. It may take 2 to 10 seconds to finally shift into D. It just becomes a PITA waiting for the tranny to engage in Drive mode. Adding Trans-X additive to the ATF fixes the problem. IMO, the SUS is a nice car, but with pitfalls. Asking price of $4,900 is way more then what I would be willing to spend on a car with serious motor problem potential. Suggest trying to buy this car "on the cheap." That way, if it needs repairs, you have saved the money to pay for repairs.

I think the difference is that regular ATF is petroleum based, ATF labeled "synthetic" is not.

Best ATF??..................IMHO, there isn't much difference in ATF by all the manufacturers. To me it is all the same, whether it be ATF or synthetic ATF. I have used Walmart ATF for the past 10 years with no issues. The important thing is to change the ATF at 30K intervals. Subaru makes it easy with a screw in drain plug on the tranny, so the ATF can be drained just like doing an oil change. Your Forester will have a screw on ATF filter. Looks just like an oil filter. Prolly good idea to replace the filter every 100K miles.

Sounds like you have thought this swap through very well. Hope all goes well upon assembly.

Also check to see if the pulley is the same size, and the pulley shaft length is the same on $22 unit vs unit on your car. If so, should work. Be careful, if you need to bend a line to do a hook up. It is very easy to split a line open, when bending the line.

There is a stronger demand for Subarus in Oregon then Texas, so the cars would sell quicker in Oregon at a higher price.

Since a 98 OBW does not have a dash board idiot light indicating water temp, it is advisable to keep an eye on the temp gauge while driving. Your engine is prolly good to go, just watch the temp gauge.

Good thought, maybe a "finders fee," for the testimonials I have given them.

Update............it has been 3 or 4 years now. I am the guy who wrote the original thread regarding Trans-X. My car's tranny started getting lazy again in shifting from R to D. I drained/filled twice with ATF, and added a can of Trans-X with the last fill. I am happy to report that the lazy shifting is fixed once again. This has come to be a once a year event to change ATF and add Trans-X. So far, so very good. Sure beats the cost of replacing the tranny. Singing the praises of Trans-X....................................Rooster2

If you charged with only one 12 oz can of 134A refrigerant, then I don't think you have enough refrigerant in the system. It is my experience that when a system is low on refrigerant, it behaves exactly like what you are experiencing.............the compressor only casually comes on lazily, and blows just slightly cool air, then shuts off. Add another can (smaller size can) of 134a, and see what happens.

Is this from the front or rear O2 sensor? I just replaced my rear sensor that is a three wire unit. The sensor wiring and connector wiring are color coded the same. So, the colored wires matched up the same upon pushing the connector together from the sensor pig tail to the car wire harness (receiving) connector.

I agree that a used tranny is the way to go to fix this problem. It is just very expensive to have your existing tranny repaired, and time consuming. I checked into all these options when my last Leggie lost its tranny. A used tranny from a wrecking yard is my advise.