Rooster2

A red neck fix that works pretty well, is to add some CV axle grease back into the split boot. The grease can be bought at any auto parts store. Then, wrap the split boot in seran food wrap, then over wrap the seran with duct tape. The whole point is to keep the grease in, and road grime out of the CV joint. This fix works pretty good.

Have you tried using a wobbler on your drive? That, and different length extensions, I would think would do the job. Looks like the bolt is near the exhaust system, so lifting the car as high as possible on ramps or whatever would be helpful as well. Use PB Blaster if bolt is really rusted in tight.

Are you sure the clicking is from the relay that controls the rear wiper? Yea could be a bad relay. See if any of your other relays are the same, as the one clicking, if so, swap relays to see if that fixes your problem. Suggest you pull the electrical connector off the rear wiper, and check to see if you have power at the connector using a light bulb tester or multimeter.

I rented a Nissan Ultima 2.5 with a CVT tranny that drove well. Driving felt a little strange like the motor/tranny connection was with a large rubber band. At slow speed it seemed to take a little bit of time to tighten up the rubber band for acceleration. This felt a little strange, but I got used to it. The great news is the fuel economy, which prolly approached 40 mpg. I drove from Washington, DC to Indianapolis on one tank of gas. My recent drive to Charlotte, NC was in a Kia Optima. I am uncertain if the tranny was CVT, as the tranny could be held in gear through 6 forward gears, according to the gear display on the dashboard. So, don't think it was CVT. Kia/Hyundai cars have gotten a lot better, however, the rental Optima needed suspension tuning in my opinion. Seemed like there was too little shock absorber travel, or tire sidewalls too rigid, so the car rode rough like a cowboy buckboard. Also, the steering was too super quick. On the positive side, trip read out recorded 37 mpg during highway driving. Overall, the car tired me out as a driver with its steering and ride. My 98 OBW would have been a better driver for the trip.

I used to use Fram oil filters, for no particular reason. It was so easy to buy them, since they are sold just about everywhere. Then, I started reading negative reports on them on Forums. Someone even detailed that their Fram split open while the car was being driven, dumping oil onto the pavement. So, after an oil change, I dissected the Fram oil filter that I had just replaced. I was not impressed with the quality of materials inside the cartridge. Everything looked so cheap and flimsy. That was the last time I bought a Fram. Just my .02 cents worth.

I just had my HGs replaced in my 99, and learned a lot in the process, as to why 96-99 Subarus with the DOHC 2.5 motor break head gaskets. Your motor has a weakness in design, which has the pistons protruding slightly above the head when running. This forced Subaru to use a thicker then normal head gasket to seal the head to the block. Over time and miles, the thick head gasket gets burned thru to permit exhaust gas to enter the cooling system, and hence create the over heating problem. With a block sealer, I don't see how the product is going to correct the problem of a burned thru head gasket. The other down side, is the additive may plug up your radiator and heater core, and that is never good. Well anyway, please report back on this forum what results you got with the block sealer. Who knows...........tell us if it worked for you.

I think it is the head gaskets. I have the same motor in my 99 OBW, and it blew it's head gasket. As I speak, a shop is currently replacing the HGs. Yes, with a blown head gasket, the car will idle all day and not over heat. However, just stress the engine with some highway travel, and the temp gauge will spike to HOT. Easiest way to confirm bad head gaskets, is to remove the top off the radiator over flow container cap. With the engine warm, and running, look in, and if you see bubbles in the over flow tank, it's bad HGs. Whatever you do, don't let the motor over heat. If you do, the motor will not be repairable. Sorry to confirm what others have said here about your HGs being bad.

I have the same motor as yours in my 99 Legacy. When it fails, the car will still be very driveable, however the computer will retard the timing, so horse power will be down, and gas millage will be lower. Swapping out a knock sensor is not difficult, just arduous. Read the "search" feature on this forum to see instructions on how it is done. There will also be pictures on the write-ups to help you do the job.

Good advise...........Thanks!

Marvel Mystery Oil has been around a long time. I have used it for lifter ticking, and have found it to do a good job of quieting things job. Suggest you try using it.

Thanks Grossgary, pretty much what I was thinking. 30K miles is too soon to be replacing spark plugs, etc. I think I will change her oil/filter, get the tires balanced & rotated, and add a can of Techron to the gas tank, and call it a day!

A friend has a 2010 Forester due for 30K dealer service. Yea, I don't fault the dealer for wanting to service a customer's Subie, but at an expense of $629.95, I question the value for servicing provided. I can understanding the need to: changing the oil/filter rotate and balance tires However, I question that the spark plugs need changing at 30K miles. Don't plugs last longer then 30K miles? Fuel filter should last more then 30K miles? Replace cabin air filter.......well maybe?? The rest of the list is mostly "fluff" check & inspect work.......... check and top off all fluid levels, inspecting brakes, lubing body hinges, replace cabin air filter, test charging system, and perform Multi-point Inspection, (whatever that is.) I am thinking all car companies offer this service through their dealers, at prolly the same cost. It just seems way over priced to me. Any thoughts??

The new 2.0 motor has gone to a timing chain, so no timing belt.

If you sit next to the door, try really ramming your shoulder repeatedly into the door to get it to open. If that doesn't work, then study the mechanics of how the latch works on an open door. Observe how the catch releases from the striker plate. Then, if need be, insert a screw driver, or knife blade between door and door jam opening forcing the catch release to let go of the door. With a little luck, you should get it open.

Not long ago, I sold my wife's "cooked" EJ-25 motor to a wrecking yard. It was a complete block unit. I had it placed in the back of my OBW from an engine stand for transporting to a yard. One of the yard workers physically lifted the engine from my OB into the front scoop of a front end loader. I was impressed that this skinny guy in his late 20's with more tattoos then teeth was able to lift the block by himself. He said it weighed close to 200 lbs. Life is never dull!

If you can learn the color code for your exterior paint job, it makes it easier to find same color doors from a wrecking yard. Shopping for doors on line at many wrecking yards. Buy the doors, and they will ship to your home via Fed X, or UPS, well wrapped in cardboard and heavy duty industrial seran wrap. Securing replacement doors could not be made any easier. Let us know what you have decided to do.

Great to read all this info regarding HGs. I am still undecided on what to do with my 99 with failing HGs. The engine is not damaged from over heating. UPDATE.........UPDATE........ Got a lead, and just now, I spoke with a guy that is a Subie tech at a local dealership, who will replace the HGs at his home garage for a low price. I will get him to do the work, and save some bucks.

Subaruplatt posted this link recently..........it's a website for an independent Subaru shop in Seattle, WA http://www.smart-service.com/blog/20...t-for-a-subaru Click onto "Subaru Parts" topic. This link takes you to Six Star Head Gaskets. There are a lot of threads available to read about HGs. Anyone here using their HGs, and can testify regarding the quality of their head gaskets?

My vote is to keep the car and get the $4,3XX. the insurance company is offering to you. Owning a car with a "rebuilt title," is no big deal. Just take some pictures, print them out, and keep them in a file with your title. When you sell the car in the future, show the buyer the pics, which shows the minimal extent of the damage. I had a similar situation a few years back. I kept the car and fixed it myself, and pocketed the money. I recently sold the car directly to a buyer, showed him the car damage photos, and he didn't care. I still got top buck when selling the car. Like others have said, replacing doors is really easy. Simply buy doors, and install yourself, or if you are not handy doing this, take the car and doors to a car repair shop, and have them install the doors. It wouldn't have to be a car body repair shop, any auto shop could do the work, and it won't cost much. I am always happy when this situation arises, because I know I am going to make some easy money. I am guessing that you will clear a profit of at least $3,500, prolly more, after you have had the doors replaced.

GD.........I think you mean well in your advise, but like posted earlier by Mikaleda......."i think your ego is ahead of you there." Instead of presenting yourself as a "know it all," on this subject, you would be better serving others here by simply offering advise in your humble opinion.

I have changed spark plugs on my EJ25, so well aware how miserable it is to work on the sides of the motor. I gotta think replacing HGs, is not easy for the same reason. One big advantage is not having to make sure the engine bolts up to the AT properly. I have read numerous posts of ruining the AT, when installed incorrectly. Thanks for taking the time to list part numbers etc. I appreciate it! Gaining knowledge helps to make the best decision on what to do. Larry (Rooster2)

Grossgary...........Thanks........all good thoughts and ideas. I may have read, but didn't remember that the HGs could be changed without removing the engine from the car. It is a thought! I did look for OEM HGs on line, but strangely could not find a website that would list Subaru part numbers, so I was reluctant to order without specific numbers. I figured it is just too easy to get wrong parts delivered. I haven't done a thorough forum search for part numbers when replacing HGs, maybe the info is there, or someone has easy access to it, and can post on this topic.

I think the Brighton is a Legacy model. For 99, I think all Leggie models came with the 2.5 phase 1 motor. However, some 99 Impresa models came with the 2.2 motor, but I believe they were still phase 1. It is my understanding that the Subaru coolant conditioner was made for phase 2 SOHC motors, not for phase 1 DOHC motors. Someone correct me, if I am wrong.

Yea, I know that a major stealership, not mom/pop lot, sends their high millage trade-ins to the dealer auto auction, that's where the mom/pops buy their cars. It is buyer beware at those auctions, so I don't feel bad that someone could be buying a problem. The buyer has to expect that as well, and takes their chances. I am experienced on selling cars out of the yard on side of my home, but feel selling the Subie could easily prompt a return with the buyer wanting their money back. At this point, I am leaning away from having work done on a 196K mile motor.