Rooster2

Yea, read in the archives that disconnect under the dash was easier. Prolly, because of more space to work, vs reaching in the slot where the climate controller resides. Anyone have any special advise on how best to swap the cable across at the back of the controller? Someone said to don't loose, or drop the attachment clip, as it is hard to find another one the same size. Thanks for any help!

I am back again with the climate control unit not working right. Buttons won't stay "pushed in." It is time for control unit replacement. So.............. I got a Subie replacement unit from a wrecking yard. How difficult is it to reattach the cable to the temp slide unit at the back of the controller?

bad top hat at top of strut??

If it were me, I would go with the rating for the fuse that controls the rad fan. Should be easily enough found in the fuse box, or listed in the owner's manual on the page showing the fuse lay out.

For what it is worth, I have put brakes on a 91 Leggie, 98 OBW, and 99 OBW, and never had any issues on replacement part sizing. I checked Advance Auto Parts website for a 95 Leggie, and found brake pads listed with no mention of wheel size or build date consideration. I am confident that Advance will sell you the right size part.

I have a 99 with the 2.5, and a 98 that I had a 2.2 put into. Both are automatic. I drive both, so I "hands on" experience on a side by side basis. Yea, the 2.2 looses some power, when compared to the 2.5. In most daily driving, the loss is not a big deal. In merging onto on going traffic on an interstate ramp, full throttle is weak, but again you get used to it. Switching to the 2.2 is a good solution, when a 2.5 craps out. I would do it again for sure.

Good that you got the compressor to kick on and pull the 134 into the system. I don't think that 2 and a half cans of 134 is too much refrigerant, but maybe just a little bit too much. The gauge on those 134 (do it yourself) are not very accurate, but usually close enough. On the last can, was the gauge reading in the red zone at time of adding the 134? If so, it is possible that you have just a bit too much 134 in the system, so the sensor won't let the compressor turn on as it is suppose to. My advise, connect up the gauge again, and see if the reading is in the red danger zone. If so, remove some of the refrigerant from the system. Get the gauge to read at the high end of the green zone. Hope this helps.....if not, then you will prolly need to replace a sensor or two.

When converting from R12 to R134A, it is better to use Ester Oil, not PAG Oil in the system. Ester will be more compatible with any remaining oil from when you had R12. I converted a '91 Leggie to R134A, and had no problems. I was surprised how well 134 cooled off the car. The conversion worked well. When I converted, I connected R134 can to the low port, started the car engine, turned on the A/C to max cool, slide lever to max cool, and fan on high. My compressor kicked on pretty quickly upon the R134 entering the system. I am surprised that your compressor won't turn on.

Agree, these tires will be noisy, also, with a chunky tread design, you will get great traction in mud & snow. The down side is the tendency to "scallop" wear, which is not good.

I have a harbor freight "hub tamer" set. I have used it once to replace the wheel bearing on my OBW. I will sell it to you at half price. Let me know if you are interested. Larry, (Rooster2).

Don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but thanks.....there is an O'Reilley' part store here in Indianapolis, IN, not far from where I live. NAPA is near by too. Good to know their NAPA brand is really Wix products.

I have always thought highly of Wix products, but difficult to find at a retail store. Any national chain stores carry them??

If you have a sun roof, if so, it is common to have the drain hoses plug up, and dump water to the interior.

I think that $1,000 is a good asking price, then maybe drop down to $800 if need be. I have sold a number of cars on CL, and have found a lot of responders are not serious buyers. As others have said "cash" is what is important, and who shows up first with the cash, gets the car. I won't take checks of any kind. Ignore the scammers, who will send you emails, wanting you to ship the car somewhere, in return, they will give you a phoney check as payment. Invite all the responders to come and look at the car, less then half will show up. I will "hold" a car as "sold" for 2 days, if the buyer gives me earnest money of $100-$200. The "hold" money is non refundable, if buyer does not pay the remaining agreed to amount. I write up a short contract with these terms on the contract, and signed by both me and the buyer. Once the car is sold, I go back to CL, and cancel the ad. Good luck in selling your car. Let us know how things are going.

I just had that swap done last Fall. I had a '95, 2.2 put in my wife's 98 OBW. With the motor still on a stand, suggest you replace the timing belt, and the tensioners, the water pump, and seals. Good cheap kits available on ebay. Much easier to do the work, when the motor is out of the car. A couple of months ago, I had to replace the crank sensor and the knock sensor. Be sure you know what you are doing, when re-seating the engine to an automatic transmission, if that is what you have. Do the seating wrong, and you will ruin the A/T, so be careful.

Yep, that is a good write up. I viewed another thread with about the same pictures. Don't be surprised if your knock sensor bolt up unit is covered over with wiring or a loom, making it even harder to find. Just move stuff out of the way to find the unit.

I am thinking that ultra grey will be too flexible, and not work. Think about using JB Weld. Adjust to the height you want, before JB totally sets up and dries to be rock hard.

You don't say what year your car is, but I don't think it makes much difference. The knock sensor is prolly in the same location on all Subie motors. I just replaced mine on my 99 OBW. It is difficult to locate. Check the archives on this forum under "search," that is where I found a good write up, and pictures, when I did mine. No need to use a torque wrench. Just snug up the new one upon installation. You don't want to crank it down hard, or you will break the plastic housing of the unit.

check for a bad fuse.

A bad knock sensor won't cause your engine to make knocking noises. What it will do, is give a bad signal to the engine computer, so that the motor runs in a lower performance "default mode." In default, your engine will have less power, and your gas millage will go down a few mpg. Your car will continue to run in this situation, and won't leave you stranded. It is just better to get it replaced. Replacing the knock sensor yourself is not a difficult job, but kind of difficult to get a socket onto it. Plenty written on this subject can be found using the "search" function on this forum. Let us know how you come out on this problem.

I hope your after market T-stat is working properly. I have an after market T-stat in my 98 OBW, but made sure to buy one that cost $30+, with a long large coil spring design like OEM. It is the cheapie T-stats with the short coil design that don't work well, even if tested in water on your stove. I run an after market rad cap with no problem. However, your over heating does sound like a faulty rad cap. With dealer closed over the long holiday, I would recommend after market cap. Buy the most expensive one they sell, for just a couple of bucks more then their cheapest. It is hard to imagine your head gasket job is faulty right after rebuild. Are you sure the heads are bolted down properly??

Vacuum hoses are inexpensive. I doubt that you will find a kit for sale made up for a specific Subaru motor. When I need to replace vac hoses, and it has been on just a onesey or twosey basis, I have just taken the bad hoses to my local Autozone store, and had the counter guy match it with one of the various size of hoses they sell from hose wound up on bulk individual reels. Last episode, the counter guy found the right size hose, matched up the length, and cut a section off for me. Nice thing...... he said "no charge," and sent me on my way. Now that is good store PR.

I am thinking the spring was perhaps cracked at the time you had it to the mechanic, but had not broken into pieces, so the mechanic would not have been able to spot the trouble.

I think you have to ask for an alternator for a 97 model, but I am not sure. Someone else needs to clarify this.

From what I have read, it is not an easy swap out. ECU, wiring, exhaust hook up, and instrument gauge hook up would make things difficult. It just would not be plug and play. Of course, anything is possible with tons of time and research. If so, plan on your car being out of service for several months, maybe more.