Rooster2

From what I have read, I think you have to say that your Subie is a 97 model to qualify. Yes, this is deception, but think others have done this successfully. I am sure someone will chime in with more precise details, but it is a method of buying a replacement alternator on the cheap. I think I read that the electrical connector needs to be changed, but that is no big deal.

I vote with the others....you have a bad ground somewhere. Look for corrosion that has worked itself back along the battery cables, not just only at the battery connection.

The 2.0 motor is what is used in Japan. Going larger then 2.0, puts the car into a higher tax bracket. It is most likely a 2.2 motor that has a shorter stroke, or smaller piston bore to become a 2.0 motor.

I have sold several cars, and have listed them on Craig's list. I have written my own ads, and after a while, I have used the same, or close verbiage in write-ups. With that experience........ The CL listing for the 96 OBW strikes me as a "slick" ad with verbiage that has been refined, honed, and made smooth over a lengthy number of postings on a lot of cars. Pretty sure this is the work, as others think, of someone who is flipping cars. That is not bad unto itself, but just be aware that behind that slick ad, is prolly a slick used car salesman.

Everyone who has responded to your post has given you great advise!! I am bothered that head gaskets were replaced in what seems to be preventive maintenance to the 2.2 motor. That is just not really done in the real world. Head gaskets are replaced when old head gaskets go bad. So, I would really question the sales pitch given to you on this issue. 2.2 motors don't often blow head gaskets, (though I had one blow), and if so, it makes one wonder how often, and to what degree, the engine was driven while over heating. It is the over heating that leads to a shorten life expectancy of any motor. Just my 2 cents worth of caution.

I wouldn't worry about gas that is 3 months old. It should still burn okay. I would just drive on. I would be more concerned if gas has set in the tank for over a year. What is going on with your motor using 6 quarts of oil. Is it leaking oil, or burning oil??

I am the guy, who wrote the original thread, and so have read all the posts and replies over the past 4 years. I am not aware of the 75,000 mile version of Trans-X, and haven't seen anyone else comment on its performance. I can say that the blue bottle product continues to work in my 99 OBW tranny. After a year's worth of driving, the Trans-X looses its effectiveness. However, draining ATF, and adding fresh Trans-X will again fix the problem, and gives me another year of fixed delayed forward engagement. If the 75,000 versions doesn't work as well, then recommend draining the tranny of its appx. 4 and a half quarts of ATF, and then add the Trans-X with new 4 and a half quarts of ATF. Be aware that the AT dip stick is calibrated so that low level stick mark to full level stick mark of ATF is only about a pint of tranny fluid. If you don't that, it is very easy to over fill with ATF. Please report back your opinion of Trans-X on this thread....Thanks......Larry (Rooster2)

My thought, is that it is okay to "turn down" a rotor only once, before it gets too thin. The problem with machining down, is that it makes the rotor thinner, which will get it hotter quicker under braking, and more likely to warp again.

I would bet the starter is bad. Clicking your key on and off, gets the contacts to engage eventually to start the car. Sometimes, lightly tapping the starter with a hammer will get the starter to work too. I have never been one for rebuilding starters with new contacts, and what not on my own. To me, this is best done by a rebuild shop, who do that day in, and day out. I have always found it easier to buy a rebuilt starter from a parts store. Swapping out a Subie starter is not a difficult job.

Rotors are not an item that you would buy from a wrecking yard. All the ones I have ever seen have been rusted badly, and who knows if they are already warped. I still suggest you look up rotor cost on line with Advance Auto Parts. Napa has good quality parts, just 20% higher then other parts stores IMO.

Same thought, warped rotors (prolly what you are calling warped disc). I bought my last rotors from Advance Auto Parts on line. Many discount coupons worth a savings of 20-30% off list price. Makes for great pricing.

Replace the radiator cap. Also, check hoses and sides of the radiator for leaks. You are loosing coolant somewhere. Any drip spots or puddles visible on the ground under the motor, when car has been parked for a while?

Does an after market cold air intake system provide added power or fuel economy? I would like to learn the advantage of this system.

One 12 oz can of R134 is not enough. You will need to have about 2 and a half cans in the system to fill it up. The hose gauge on a 12 oz can have a reputation of not being very accurate. IMO, you can add 134, and have the gauge register just slightly in the red zone on the gauge, and still be okay. If you add too much R134 to over pressure the system, the compressor will not turn on, so there is built in protection against damaging the system. Don't add any more of the stop leak into the system. I learned the hard way that adding the stop leak is a good way to permanently plug up the flow of 134 through the narrow tubing of the condenser and evaporator. When that happens, you are back to not having the A/C work again. On your other car, where you added some 134, you may have added just a little too much 134. When the compressor starts cycling on and off quickly, that is an indication that the system is either too low or too high on 134. Bleed some 134 off, and see if the extreme cycling calms down. You don't say anything about having a vacuum drawn on your A/C system, after having the system "opened" to install the new O rings. This should have been done to draw the atmospheric air and moisture out of the system.

The cause needing multiple burping sounds like a head gasket problem to me. The electrical problem sounds like a bad alternator or battery, or both.

Thanks, I need to pull the TB cover to see what is going on. Thanks for the advise........Rooster2

On my 99 OBW, it has two horns. They are located behind the two head lights. They are not hard wired, so you can disconnect at the wire connector. Just trace the wire back from the horn to find the connector. Should be ez to do.

My 98 OBW, with 2.2 95 motor has a motor squeak at start up. The noise lasts for about 10 seconds, then disappears. I just replaced the tensioner for the V belt to quiet the noise, thinking the bearings were going bad in that unit. Nope, that wasn't it. I still have the same noise as before. Now, I am thinking it may be the tensioner for the timing belt. Guess, I need to remove the timing belt to investigate. The timing belt was replaced when the engine was installed last Fall, but don't know if the tensioner was replaced What, or how should I proceed?

Update.........don't think the Yokohama AVID TRZ model tire is available in the size you need. However, other models are available that will fit.

Cheapie plug wires, even if new, could cause this.

Yep.........head gaskets........your 96 has a reputation of blowing head gaskets. Do a search here on this website for "head gaskets," to read lots about it.

Last summer, I bought a set of Yokohama AVID TRZ tires for my OBW. I really like them, because they drive so nice, and still look like new with 10K miles on them. Winter was very mild in Indiana last winter, so there wasn't hardly any opportunity to see how well they did in snow. Cost was about $100/tire, so they are within your budget. Recommend you put them on your "short" list.

A slight miss........?? Maybe new plugs and plug wires would correct the miss, and lift your gas millage.

check tire wear for any unusual wear pattern. Tires can cause noise.

I am thinking a bad tire or bent road wheel.