Rooster2

23K miles since rebuild. Looks like you did a good job. Looks like you are getting great gas millage. Your gauge has barely dropped in all that time and miles. LOL

KYB has been my choice of struts for years. KYBs are excellent at a good price. They last a long time. I have seen them for sale on e-bay motors.

Good thoughts.............Thanks!!

I did this. New sensor is tripping a code, saying it is defective.

Nope..........not fixed yet. The sensor I installed must be bad. Acts like it doesn't work at all. Car barely starts, no power till it warms up. Will install another sensor tomorrow. I hate doing the same job twice in two days! I bought a Borg Warner sensor from Advance Auto. Even new parts can be bad.

I got the temp sensor swapped out tonight. A friend came over, who is smarter then me. He got the connector to disconnect in about 30 seconds. It is all about where, and how to unlatch the connector. Yes, on reassembly, the big PVC hose that connects to the block was as hard as rock, and would not flex to attach to the tube on the block. A trip to AZ worked great. The counter man gave me a small replacement section of hose free gratis. That would never happen at a stealership. All is reassembled, 2.2 motor is running well. Thanks for all the advise. I really appreciated it!!

Prolly a good idea to disconnect one of the cables from the battery before working further with the fuse block, if you haven't already considered this.

I still don't have the sensor removed. I considered removing the IACV to add to the work space area, but looking at the IACV, it has a paper gasket sealing it to the block. I am reluctant to remove for fear of ruining the paper gasket. Any thoughts?? I have a buddy coming over tonight to help me. I hope he is smarting then me, in figuring out how to release the connector. Thanks for all the replies..........Rooster2

Non-running Legacys with bad motors, and bad trannies, are what you find in a wrecking yard. A wrecking yard would buy this car for max of $400. You needn't spend more.

Yea, pouring on coke or pepsi will clean off the terminal, repeat several times for best results. Then wash off with lots of water to get rid of the sticky liquid. If no dielectric grease available, use white lithium grease to prevent further corrosion build up.

Thanks guys............I appreciate the advise!!

I will try all of the above. Thanks for the advise, I really appreciate it. I am thinking about using a very small screw driver blade, or very small knife blade to unlock the connector. Then, if no success, I will remove the IACV. What a PITA. Glad I bought a deep well 19 MM socket for sensor removal. I can see that it will be necessary to use that socket.

I am having a devil of a time replacing the ecu coolant temp sensor on my EJ 22. My problem is how to disconnect the electrical connector. The unit is buried so deep down on the side of the motor, that there is very little room to work or see how to disconnect the connector. Anyone know, is it a push down on a lever, or pull up on a tab to separate the connector? After spending an hour fooling with it, and practicing on other electrical connectors to see how they release, I am still stuck. Anyone know "the secret hand shake" to get the connector to separate? Thanks...........I am really frustrated at the moment!!!!!!

Yea, change the oil & filter right away for sure!!

I don't recommend the Leggie Outback seats in cloth. They are not that comfortable. Recommend the Leggie/Leggie Outback seat in leather. Much more comfortable.

Could be something as simple as buying a tank of bad gas. Any chance you bought gas after a heavy rain? If so, water run off the drive way, and past a faulty gas station fill pipe will put water in the tank, then water in your tank. If so, adding a can of "dry gas" may help.

It is a little late in the scheme of your problem, but in the future, it is not a good idea to drop the pan on a Subie AT. I did it once to find a clean filter, and then had a devil of a time getting the pan to seal without leaking. It was nasty removing, then replacing, the gasket for pan reattachment. Changing the fluid is all that is really needed for proper maintenance. There will always be some metal grit found in the pan and on the magnet. That is normal. Others have said the same thing on other posts. As far as a replacement trany for your car, the best solution is to buy one from a wrecking yard. To find out which trany will fit your car from what range of years, it is a good idea to ask that question as a new Thread.

Low mark to high mark on the AT dipstick is only about a pint. Trany fluid should be checked with motor running, engine warm, and trany in park.

There is a recent post that the torque down to 78 foot pounds is incorrect, and is a book misprint. I seem to remember one guy saying he torques his to 185 foot pounds. Read all about this in a recent thread, use the "search" feature if need be.

Thanks guys for all the advise and pics. I will get after it tomorrow, weather permitting!

Just bought the correct sensor. Looked to install it, but cold temps and blustery wind blowing across my driveway will have me installing it another day. It is just too uncomfortable to work outside today. From the downloaded picture I have, it looks like the sensor is located on the passenger side of the motor, somewhere in front of the PCV valve. I looked in my engine bay, but couldn't find the sensor. Looks like hoses need to be moved, or removed to gain access to see and remove it. Someone wrote that changing the sensor is somewhat a PITA, I am beginning to believe it. I was wise enough to purchase a 19 MM deep socket to R&R the sensor. I think I the job is going to require it.

Thanks for the pixs of the sensors, very helpful. Unlucky me, I bought the wrong one. Well it is back to the store to buy the two wire sensor. Thanks for the help. Looks like a deep well socket is needed for sensor removal. Looks like maybe a 12 metric size would fit. Is that right?

Well, I bought a Water Temp sensor this morning. Hope to install it over the lunch hour. Looks difficult to install. I think I can find it. A picture in the archives roughly shows the location on top of the motor. Any advise on installation??

I went to my local Advance Auto Parts to have the CEL read that just came on. It has done this a couple of times before now on the 1995 2.2 motor transplanted into wife's 98 OBW. The last CEL read said the gas cap was bad or loose. So, instructed my wife to really crank the gas cap on tight. She says she has been doing so. So this time, I bought and installed a new gas cap thinking this will solve the problem. However, a second code also presented itself, and said the coolant temperature sensor was bad. I haven't noticed any cold start, or driveability problem, when I have driven it recently. However, after the codes were cleared, I had a devil getting the car started. It would crank and crank, and not start. Finally, giving it gas while cranking, I got it to start. Once started, the idle wanted to stay at 1200 rpm for the first 30 seconds, then the idle settled down to normal. Subsequent starts, idling, and driving have been just fine, So, hard to tell if the CTS is really bad, or just what is going on. The CEL has stayed off since the reset. Should I wait to see if the CEL comes on again, or just install a new CTS, and be done with it? Advance Auto sells CTS, pricing from $14 to about $30. I read the archives, and was told that the sensor is a simple thermister, so is one unit that much better then the next? A picture in the archives shows the CTS in front of the PCV valve, buried down on the top of the block. Looks difficult to remove, but couldn't find much description on "how to" replace. Any advise on need to replace the CTS, and advise on how to do so, if needed. Thanks, Rooster2

I still think your caliper is the source of your problem. Replace or rebuild it. If I were you, I would replace it