trikerbob
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Posts posted by trikerbob
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Hi guys, I purchased a reman Dist off Ebay. Wasn't exactly what I thought it would be, but I'm sure it will work for my use. I Belive it might have been a Brat dist about 87'. Inside it has 4 little posts to plug wires into. they are lettered D,B,T,C. I need to know the 2 that go to the coil. What one to - side and what to + side. Thanks for your help.
Bob
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Thanks guys for your responses to my questions. I kind of figured it wasn't going to work without an adapter. This info is for a friend of mine who already has a left over EA82 trans that he wants to use just because he has it and it was a freebee. So he might just go ahead and stay with the Ea82 motor, but he has been interested in the EJ22 with the mods to Dist and carb for the extra 400cc's it would bring to the project, but it might not be worth the extra problems it will take to mate them up. We'll just have to wait and see.
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Hi guys, got a question for you. Will the EJ 2.2 motor bolt up to the Auto trans of the EA82 1986 car? This would be used in a Trike build so no problem with sensors of other wiring issues or fitment problems.
What needs to be done to make them work together?
Thanks, Bob
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Thanks Jerry, I'll take a look.
Bob
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Hi guys,
I've built a few Subaru Trikes now using the EA82 motor with great success. I'm now ready to build with the EJ22 motor. I understand the EJ22 can be carbed (intake machined top except a carb) no problem there. The part I don't know, is what Distributors can be made to fit. I have read on this forum that the 82 to 84 Ford Escort is one that has been used. These being very hard to find these days, are there any others that can be used?
The Dist. would have to be vacuum advanced type as I need the complete setup to be as simple as possible with no wire harness or computer needed.
Thanks in advance for any information any of you can give on this subject. Please be as detailed as possible so I will know for sure what I need to look for.
Thanks, Trikerbob
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I'd get a EA81 or EA82 N/A and bolt a 3.8L buick regal supercharger to it... that'd be a blast on a trike
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions.
Since this build will be for a women, and since I don't charge a bunch for my labor, I do my very best to keep things as simple as I can. My ideal thing would be to find a complete take out motor with under 150,000 miles that is known to be a solid runner. It could be a SPFI or a Carbed motor as I do have a carb manifolid I could replace the SPFI one with. We are not required to be smoged on a Trike so that is not an issue, but as I move up into the EJ series of motors, things start to get more complacated and heavier and needing more cooling. Plus its an area I haven't ventured into yet with one of my own to know where the problems might be. So I don't want to build for a buyer and possibly find it back in my garage every week to adjust or fix something that we didn't know would happen.
In my area, I'm having a hard time finding very many good running cars with EA82's or EA81's that are cheap enough to pick up just for the motor. Others that are cheap, are wore out or don't run to be able to tell if its any good or not. I'd jump on a
40K JDM complete crate motor, but its rare to see one of those now too. Its all 2.2 and mostly the 2.5's out there now, the EA's are to old to be that low in milage.
Bob
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We routinely use the EA81 and EA82 radiators for the EJ22's. Just because the engine *can* make more power doesn't mean it is going to most of the time. The differences in power are largely a product of larger displacement and better valve/head designs. The cooling systems are quite similar and shouldn't be a problem.
GD
Thanks to you all for your answers and comments. One of my concerns about the EJ22 is that I have not done that one myself yet to fully understand the problems I might incounter. I'm building for a paying customer and hate to get involved in something I have no experience with. The extra weight of the EJ22 is also a concern as there is already a lot of weight back there the way I build off the VW torsion bar. So I guess I better either stay with a VW motor for her or find a good carbed EA81, but thats getting harder to do these days.
Thanks guys
Bob
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They are all computer conrolled MPFI, so yes you would need all the wireing and the ECU.
I would sugest you consider using the EJ22 and doing the Weber carb conversion using the Ford Escort distributor. Look for threads concerning this in the modifications forum.
GD
Hi GD, my concern about the EJ22 is that it is quite a bit more powerfull and requires more cooling than the little EA82. I doubt that the 2 small radiators that I have made work on our Trikes with the EA82's probably wouldn't keep the heat down. There is so little room to mount radiators now, that I'm not sure I could make it work very easily. I'll have to think about that one some.
Bob
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*remembering* that turbo motors are low compression I would expect a small difference in power without a turbo.
Ok the Trike I'm going to be building is going to be for a Women. Just how much difference would the lower compression make if I removed the turbo and carbed it? Is the turbo single port or duel? I have a single port manifold that I could use.
My big problem is finding a good carbed EA82 is getting very hard to find. I seem to run into Turbos more often, thats the only reason for my post. If its not a big difference in the performence of the motor, I'd just buy the first one that comes along =turbo or carbed, as long as I know I have the right intake to convert it.
Thanks for your feed back
Bob
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I'm looking to build another Trike soon and I run into the Turbo motors sometimes in my search for the carbureted EA82's I know nothing about the turbo's so I need a little help from you guys.
Question: would the Turbo require the computer to work? Remember I don't use any of the car wireing harness or computer. Just want it to be as easy as possible to set up in the Trike.
What would need to be there to work?
Question2: if it did have to have the computer can the motor be converted over to a stock intake manifold with the Weber Carb setup and run as well? are the turbo's duel port or single? I have a single port manifold I could use.
Any info about this will be very helpful in my search for what motor I need to look for.
Bob
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Hi GD, could you give me a direct link. I'm not haveing any luck at all at the Summit site. tried other sites using the sandwich and flex-a light name and didn't get anything.
Isn't there a way to hook it up so its just a by pass cooler where the pressure wouldn't be an issue. I was thinking I could get the input by using a T at the oil sending unit, so I'd still be able to use the sending unit light hook up and maybe tap a hole into the oil pan to return the oil. This would give me added valum of oil as well. Probably another quart to fill the cooler and lines.
Whould there be any problem with that kind of setup?
Thanks for your input.
FYI, I picked up an 180 degree stat today also to see if that might help to lower my temp a few degrees. Haven't tested it yet but will later today to see if it runs any cooler.
Bob
Ok, I found one at JC Whitney for $24.99. I'll get that and get it hook up.
Thanks, Bob
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You use a "cooler sandwich" that goes between the pump and the filter. Look on Summtracing.com - Flex-a-Lite makes one that will work. About $30.
What you have to watch is the flow capacity of the cooler. The EA81T oil cooler was only designed to flow enough oil for the turbo itself. At 2500 RPM the EA81 pump puts out 3 times the amount of oil the cooler can handle....
Just a heads up.
GD
Hi GD, could you give me a direct link. I'm not haveing any luck at all at the Summit site. tried other sites using the sandwich and flex-a light name and didn't get anything.
Isn't there a way to hook it up so its just a by pass cooler where the pressure wouldn't be an issue. I was thinking I could get the input by using a T at the oil sending unit, so I'd still be able to use the sending unit light hook up and maybe tap a hole into the oil pan to return the oil. This would give me added valum of oil as well. Probably another quart to fill the cooler and lines.
Whould there be any problem with that kind of setup?
Thanks for your input.
FYI, I picked up an 180 degree stat today also to see if that might help to lower my temp a few degrees. Haven't tested it yet but will later today to see if it runs any cooler.
Bob
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Ok, I have an oil cooler thats been laying around for a couple years, I might as well use it. I know where to hook up the INLET hose, but I don't see a place where It can feed back into the crankcase. I'm sure many of you are using oil coolers, so how did you hook it up?
EA82 1.8 Motor
Thanks, Bob
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Did you ever put the cam case O-rings in???
Yes I did
Bob
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At that temp you are getting into the range where you really should be running an oil cooler and synthetic oil. The spec Subaru thermostat's are 192..... 225 is a tad bit high for my liking but an oil cooler should bring that down a bit - and synthetic would be best.
GD
Hi GD,
It was my understanding that the normal operating temp on these motors is 212 degrees.
I don't recall where I found that information, but I think it was somewhere on this site. So I have never thought much about it running in that range. I'll have to do a little more checking on this. Thanks for the heads up.
I am using full synthetic oil too.
Bob
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Ok, I've been checking everything out today and it looks like I have all the little leaks stopped and I spent some time re doing the way I had my radiators setup and it looks like its going to run at or near the proper temp that this motor should run at. Around 212 to 225 degrees.
I won't have a chance to take it out on a long road trip until Monday, my day off, but I am going to run it around town today on my lunch hour just for a short test in city driving conditions.
Here are a couple pics of it in the Trike. Someone had wanted to see these shots, so here they are.
Bob
Well, I took her out for a 30 mile ride at lunch time today. Half the drive was around and through town, the other half was freeway at speeds up to 80mph. My temp held at 212 to 225 through it all. Looks like she is going to work just fine. I really like this motor in my Trike. Subies rule!!
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Loud, is fine, but only if it has a nice mellow tone to it. When I built the first Subaru Trike, I mis-measured the size of the pipe and muffler needed and wound up with a muffler nearly 3" in circumfrence. The sound from that Trike is awsome. This Trike is just noisey and not what I'd call a very pleasing sound. The difference between a rumble and a roar.
Bob
Ok, I've been checking everything out today and it looks like I have all the little leaks stopped and I spent some time re doing the way I had my radiators setup and it looks like its going to run at or near the proper temp that this motor should run at. Around 212 to 225 degrees.
I won't have a chance to take it out on a long road trip until Monday, my day off, but I am going to run it around town today on my lunch hour just for a short test in city driving conditions.
Here are a couple pics of it in the Trike. Someone had wanted to see these shots, so here they are.
Bob
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Sounds pretty bad rump roast, but there is no such thing as a bike (or trike) that is too loud!
Loud, is fine, but only if it has a nice mellow tone to it. When I built the first Subaru Trike, I mis-measured the size of the pipe and muffler needed and wound up with a muffler nearly 3" in circumfrence. The sound from that Trike is awsome. This Trike is just noisey and not what I'd call a very pleasing sound. The difference between a rumble and a roar.
Bob
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Well today I finally got the little issues worked out and got the Trike running again. I haven't had a chance to put it through a good hard ridding test yet, but so far with just several trips around the Storage Facility and then a 2 or 3 mile ride up the street aways so I could get it up to speeds more like road driving, It seems to be doing just fine. Tomorrow morning will be a good test to see if I see any signs of leaking over night as it sits and cools down from a 3 mile ride before I put her to bed.
The first noticable difference was the exhaust sound. It was faily load before, not it sounds like straight pipes on a V8 motor. If this setup continues to work ok over a couple good road tests, I'll have to consider investing in larger mufflers. Its to load like it is now.
Power wise, I can't say that I have noticed any real big change there. It just sounds like it though. So I really don't know. I think its going to show up in the overall driving experience. I expect that it will climb the hills easier with less effort and probably produce a little higher RPM at the top end. I rarely ride over 70 or 75 mph anyway, but I think it will cruise at 65 & 70 easier now. It will be awhile before I know if it will use more or less gas. I suspect it won't change much one way or the other. I've been getting 25 to 27mpg on average. Doesn't seem to matter what the driving conditions are, pretty much stays the same all the time.
I'll try to get a couple pics tomorrow of it in the Trike and report more if there are any issues from overnight.
Bob:)
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Another view.
Well, I ran into a few little gliches in trying to make this setup work ok. The manifold turned out to be slightly warped. I suspect it warped due to the heat when Scott welded the adapter in place to accept the Carb. I am trying to use thicker rubber type gaskets to see if that will compensate for the warping, but haven't got to test it yet. I also have been dealing with coolant leakage from a couple places.
At this point it doesn't look to promising as the manifold is warped pretty bad and I don't know how reliable it might be even if the heavy gaskets might seem to work at first, I'm concerned about after awhile after it heats up real good that it might start leaking into the cylinders. I'll just have to wait and see.
Anyone have any ideas? That will be my main issue to deal with, the other little leaks will get taken care of without a problem. I thought maybe a machine shop might be able to remove enough metal to get them flat again, but I'm afraid the warping is to great for that to work very well. But maybe that along with thick gaskets might work.
Bob.:-\
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hmmm, i dont think it would be coolant in the cylenders, but it could be fuel. ill try the spark plug trick when i get home from work.
Another way to check to see if its hydolocked. Put a wrench on the pully bolt and try to turn the motor over by hand. If you can't, then thats most likely your problem. Pull them plugs
Bob
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Well it was pretty mean as a single port, so I do expect a little better getty up from it with this new setup on it. I would expect another 10 ponies out of it this way at least, maybe more.
I hope to post more photos tomorrow of it in the Trike.
Bob:banana:
Another view.
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Damn that looks mean!! Gotta get us another pic when its mounted in the trike
Well it was pretty mean as a single port, so I do expect a little better getty up from it with this new setup on it. I would expect another 10 ponies out of it this way at least, maybe more.
I hope to post more photos tomorrow of it in the Trike.
Bob:banana:
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Hi guys, Just wanted to stop in and let you guys know that I got the new Duel Port Heads and Fuel injected manifold that Scott machined to accept the Weber 2bbl Carb, all bolted up to my EA82 motor. Very clean install. Of course this is going back in my Trike so there are no Smog crap on the manifold. Its been stripped clean and is now just a bare manifold with a Carb on it.
I just finished putting it all back together and its just waiting to be put back in the Trike. I expect to get that done tomorrow. Pretty quice and easy job to pull the VW motor out again and hook this one back up. Should be done before noon.
My only concern is that this motor might need a little more cooling than it did as a single port, but I really can't see how it would be much more. But I'll deal with that if it becomes an issue. Hope to have a full report tomorrow.
Bob
Need help with Dist wiring to coil
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Yes, I thought it was for the turbo, but I can't see any reason why it won't work on a non turbo just as well. I just don't want to play roulet with the wires and risk burning something out. One wire has to go to positive and one to negitive side of coil to run, the other two will not be used. Was hoping someone might be able to open one up and see where the wires go.
Bob