DR DLEX

grind edges to the metal (inside and out),Bondo-glass both sides with fiberglass mesh on the inside of the panel(1/2 inch larger than hole).

have you ever thought of pulling the strut towers toward each other.I have seen picts.of Gen 1 rally cars with strut braces with adjustments.Or slotting the strut holes for lateral adjustment. The idea of spacing the engine crossmember may have an unwanted stress-pull on the struts,towers,and ball-joint.

on your acceration issue,check the secondary "flapper"valve(the thing with the counterweight) it should move very easily and drop with a slight "ckink".

sound like the slow-jet is partially clogged. by the accerator pump on the carb ,is a brass cap screw,remove it then carefully unscrew and remove the jet check the tiny hole in the bottom,this may be clogged

When these go bad ,just resoder(then peen) the brass connector back to the post.

....or use washer/spacer...cone it using a punch(to ride the ball)...cut a slice from center to edge...bend to slip over ball...bend back...then grease the ball the wipers may have a little slop,but it works

yep,I thought you were looking at the same box. the pic is from my Brat from when I pulled the motor.if you get that one , it comes w/the airbox,I was quoted 135(new) for the airbox alone 8yrs ago.I had to make a custem box. these ARE old school fun,,,,but a PAIN(censered) on axels and bearings

hello Wallby, sounds like a vacuum leak; close off all vacuum hoses on/at the intake and the carb. including evap can plug or crimp EGR pipe plug the exhast air system this should get your idle manageable...if not cup your hand over the carb to feel the vac ...suction gets higher the more you close your over hand carb with a good suck when it dies=good(for the most part) ...suction gets higher to a point ...but does not die=leaking intake or carb gasket ...carb spits=clogged slow-jet the only problems i've seen with Hitachi carbs are; the upside-down screw in the throttle plate--doesn't stay tight the power valve wearing out and sticking--isolate and remove have fun

here is a pic,,note the hook

First, are you sure this is for an E-81? Second,special heads are nice,, but not required Third, if this is the set-up in a plastic bin at a certain local wrecking yard...... it's for a EA-63,,but will match to a EA-71(re-jetted)

o-kay let me slow this down abit. 1. On a non turbo intake fuel/air system, the cylinder volume creates the vacuum in the intake thus sucking the fuel/air mix at the carb(s).The smaller the carb., the less availible mix=longer time to fill the cylinder=less acceration(i.e.resrictor plates in NASCAR).The larger the carb.( or # of carbs.) more volume of fuel/air=quicker acceleration(i.e.drag racing,six-pack hemi's,etc..) 2.Torqe is made by the the ratio -fuel/air to comrpession.The more fuel/air mix available, and the higher the mix is compressed,the bigger the bang thus more torque. Now with that being said;the dual hitachi would be the choice,,,,BUT ,,,,hitachi's are hiachi's and chasing problems one is often a headache and two=weeks of nightmares.Having run duals on stock EA-71s for over 100,000 miles i've been there. I would suggest that you try each set-up and see which one fits for you

the 26/30 for the hitachi refers to the throttle plate size,thus two 26/30's are accually 52/60 total carb bore. compare this to the webber 32/36 and then do the math. hope this helps

finish it off with psudo-front clip w/head lights and a shortened hood toolbox

don't kill the goose before dinner. check the valve covers for fresh oil...oil on each side=good ...oil on one side =bad ...very little or none=very bad--pull it hopefully you have good wet valve covers. in that case add a pint of 90w oil and drive the hell out of it have fun

one thing to check is the oil pick-up o-ring I have had one distort(melt) enough to loose oil pressure after warm-up... it was the last thing I checked after I swapped 2 oil pumps with the same results