Gloyale

Double check the ground cable connection. But if that is good I would get the Denso starter.

I buy it at Napa

All SOHC 2.5 belts are the same in terms of # of teeth and width. The lower smooth roller w/lip is the same for all. There are some differences in specs for the lower cogged idler, and the upper smooth one. Some of them have a single row of balls, some of them have 2 rows of balls. Not sure which was OE spec'ed for what models, But I don't order kits, I buy individual parts. And I always buy the double row rollers.

I've got a 2010 Impreza i my shop right now with a weeping drivers side head at the back corner. Exactly the same as all the other SOHC 2.5s It still happens

+1

Super nice looking brat. I gotta say though, I'm torn about the price. Any "original" stock cleanness is gone with the lift, the bumpers, the hood scoop etc..... But then it's still got an EA81? If your gonna go custom go full custom and upgrade the drivetrain. I think for that price it would either need to be super clean totally stock. OR fully modified with at least EJ22 or even a EJ20G. Basically its a lift, a set of swampers and a bunch of nice accessories.......not 15k worth of em though. PLUS, it's in Tennessee, which means that a rust assessment would need done before determining any value. I'd put the value around 7-9k tops.

you're not

get a timing light on it and make sure you have consistent spark at the correct time You may be 180 out. Try this. Set the crank to 0 TDC (not the III hashes, but the numbered TDC) Look at cams....If the dots are at 45 degrees pointing "in" towards eachother and center of engine, then you are on compression stroke for #2, not #1. Rotate crank once fully back to TDC. Check if Cam marks are 45 degrees to the outsides. Pass side up and out, drivers side down and out. This is TDC on #1 compression stroke. when you've got #1 compression....THEN check disty rotor is on #1.

+1. sometimes referred to as a "ghost code". Happens when ECU sees the start signal but the engine does not turn so no Crank sensor pulse. GDs relay mod is great for helping out when the Ig switch contacts/circuit get old. I might suggest to use minimum 14 gauge or 12 gauge wire for ground and "30" pin. And add a 25 amp fuse to that wire from "starter post Batt +" to pin 30. At a minimum a 2" length of 14 gauge fusible link wire should be used. You don't want to add any unfused direct to battery + wires to the car. Fire hazard.

doesn't make a damn bit of difference. The sway bar operates on the principal of twist placed on the bar from wheels at uneven position. Nothing about the way the bar operates depends on a link of any excact length, just that they both be attached with an equal link. Unless you feel like it's so short that you are losing down travel, which shouldn't with stock Fozzy struts. Hundreds of folks have done the OB/FOR strut swap/lift without needing new front links. I never have. the rear swaybar is mounted to the body, not the subframe. On Outbacks and Foresters they are mounted lower on a dropped bracket. So that's why the rear didn't work as well. The links are not long enough and limit the "droop" of the rear wheels. Grab a mount bracket set from a Forester or 96-99 Outback. Personally I just remove the rear swaybar on most cars I do lifts on. The rear articulation improves so much. With teh bar on it's to east to get "crossed up" diagonally over an obstacle or staggered dips in a trail. with open diffs, that mean you are not moving. Body roll increases, but that happens anyway just from the lift......If you want it to handle like it's on rails, don't lift it.

+1 FWIW, I use a slide hammer to pull the hubs and remove backing plate, and then I remove the knuckle and take it to a press for assembly. Found hub tamer kits to be a crapshoot, and awkward. I also repack all my bearings with High temp bearing grease. Don't trust the quality or quantity of shipping grease. Just my $.02 and I know others disagree so I won't rehash in hear again.

Ahhh......My mistake. Small pic looked like the entire electronic VSS unit used in 95+ I see now it is a replacement end for the cable setup. It should be apparent if the cable or end is a problem, does the Speedometer work? If the speedo display works, but the car throws VSS code, then the issue is with the VSS in the dash. If the speedo is inop, then it's clearly a cable issue. Seen cables break in the middle too, so it isn't always the tab in the part pictured.

I personally don't replace the tensioner or it's roller unless there is a sign of damage. I do replace all 3 other idlers. In my experience the large rollers of the tensioner are more robust, and rotate at an effectively slower rpm than the 3 smaller idlers. I've only ever seen 1 seized tensioner roller. it was the new style, and was actually a genuine NTN replacement but failed after about 20k miles. Defects do sometimes happen. Ironically the original probably would not have failed if they had left it alone. (this was a job done at another local shop, not by me) I am always very careful to compress the tensioner VERY slowly. I put it in a vise and move the handle in tiny increments, taking several minutes to fully compress the tensioner.

Nope. They didn't use this type in the first Gen legacies. 90-94 VSS is built into speedo head and relies on the speedo cable. The cable screws into the spot on the side of the trans. VSS trouble in those years is almost always a broken or disconnected cable.

Why would you need longer links? The swaybar is mounted to the engine crossmember, so it drops with the lift. I've never seen anyone need to remove or alter the front swaybar.

Are you looking for the CEL to blink? Because that's not how to read codes. Got to look at the LED light inside the ECU, visible through small hole in the front of ECU if you drop the lower dash cover. Don't connect either test or read connectors. Just look at the LED while the engine is running with a lit CEL.

What GD said Check your speedo cable. The VSS that the ECU uses is in the speedo head. Assuming by "first Gen" legacy you mean 90-94

I think he meant he unhooked the test and read connectors And since he did, and the CEL is on there is a code. If it's 34 (3 long, 4 short) it's the EGR code for a faulted solenoid.

CEL will light if you leave the test connectors hooked up. Disconnect the green test connectors and the black (or white)read mode connector.

Not really. Those bolt holes, especially the "left" one as pictured, are basically ontop of the main oil feed gallery to the entire engine. Welder could blow through, or melt closed without knowing. I've actually seen a ruined block from someone drilling through to helicoil a stripped one of those mounts. Possible that a really good TIG welding expert could do it, but I would make absolutely sure to inform them that just Milimeters behind that hole is the main artery of the entire engine. Personally, for my own car or a mechanically inclined owner, I would use JB weld and the one bolt on top and watch it closely........Or I would find another block.

NGK standard or v-power plugs (no iridiums, no bosch)?

Up under dash, sort of behind the fuse box, there should be an inline fuse holder with a tag that says fuel pump. 5amp. That is for 81's with glass type fuses and external reg alt system. For 82, with bladed fuses, it should be the fuse #11, for choke and fuel pump. Is the tach wire hooked up to the coil? 82 system will not operate fuel pump if no tach signal present.

It won't. Will get soft and will seep oil through the hose. You need 5/8th evap rated hose. They can't fail you just because it's not the right shape. If it's proper rated EVAP hose, it will be acceptable. Besides, Dealer support for EA cars is 99% gone.

there really isn't a point. EGR helps keep cyl temps lower and reduce NOx emissions And the code isn't related to the valve actually, but the solenoid that keeps it inoperarble until engine warmed up. These old ECUs have no way of knowing if the EGR is opening or not. The ECU just sees a faulty resistance from the dead solenoid and throws the code. you are better off with it the valve restored. It may or may not be operating depending on wether the solenoid is fail closed (non-op) or open (EGR cold or warm) but either way I will bet that it was leaking exhaust from the soup can.

I've had bad experiences with East Coast dealerships. They WANT your treat cars with 60k plus miles as "high mileage" and "old" and will purposefully not do good jobs, and then pitch the idea of "trading in" for the new model as a better option. Dealt with this with a PA dealer "reflashing" the TCU software on a perfectly running car (reflash was done without customer knowledge or approval while car was there for remote start install) After Reflash, trans would not shift, and solenoids in the trans were fried. TCU and Valve body had to be replaced to the tune of $3500! Dealership tried to get my cousin to "trade in" and finance new model.......The car was 7 years old, but only had 64K miles, AND WAS PAID OFF already. I got SOA involved and SOA covered 1/2 the repair cost......still my cousin was out $1700......that was a damn expensive remote start.