Gloyale

Well......I don't know you could say for sure.........but i feel like it could.....I feel like i've seen this scenario before.

I should have said 2 seperate switches at each pedal. Although, older GL models w/out starter interlock will only have one switch on the clutch. If you dont have a cruise button on the left side of dash, you;ve got some oddball setup. rrgrr......perhaps start your own thread w/pics? I am getting very confused trying to help both of you in this thread......I am very familiar with these setups......retro ftited EJ cruise into my EJ swapped EA82 and EA81.......using EA buttons/switches..... but it's hard to keep track of both types int eh same thread.

That's the second cat, or a resonator depending on the model. On EA82 cars the junction were the 2 pipes meet, What we call a y-pipe, is a CAT...it's the primary one. You gotta just cut it off and either T or merge the pipes some other way. I used a 3-1/2" to 2" step down adapter off the shelf.........hammered the large end down into an Oval.....the shoved 2 pieces of 1-3/4 into the ovalized end......one was a straight piece, one was a 90.......welded up.... A 2" pipe out hte other end to the muffler. Put the 2" pipe into the end before you start hammering the big end to oval.....or it won't fit later..... Then I held this piece up against the existing y-pipe and marked where to cut out.......Sawzall.........slip the pieces in.......tack weld..........drop the assembly and finish weld. It's just exhaust

Some more little things this last few weeks. First...Engine and D/R 5spd installed w/ new clutch. Fits nicely. Don't let the Uppipe fool you......it's not going to be turbo'd...not with this engine anyhow......I just wanted the exhaust to not have to go under the engine. It'll be a straight 2-1/4 pipe from there. A little bit more work on the rear end frame/slider/bumper/gas gaurd. Tererible pics........Passenger side completed........this rail runs from the rear end all the way up to the block at the OE "K" bar mount these tie the frame/body/blocks and eventually the rear bumper into one unit. tight clearance on the pass side had to notch around the gas tank and vent lines. Better views of what these rails actually do on the drivers side.....Since this is were the muffler would've been........this ones not welded in yet. The hitch piece that will make the bottom of the bumper and the rear mount for the skid plate..... And on the interior front..........Reinstalled the XT turbo pedal box........I was gonna use a regular GL one but it doesn't clear the XT column mounts bummer.....(I wanted the spring loaded turbo pedal for my DD GL....Guess it wasn't meant to be) XT steering wheel will get a floating DigiDash mounted atop.......Just for S&Gs really since I will have aftermarket gauges for Fuel/Temp/Oil. I guess I'll need the VSS..... Reinstalled most of the wiring harness.........not sure how this happened.....BUT I CUT OUT THE FUSE BOX!!!!...........WHAT THE HELL!!!! Why did I do that????? I must have been smokin crack 3 years ago when I parted this thing out.......damn.......That's gonna be some soldering.....I guess I really only need to give power to 4 or 5 circuits......most of the rest is unneeded at this point lol. I also mocked up the T-case w/ the body installed .......I though I was going to need to cut and extend the tunnel.....but I was able to fit it perfectly with only a bit of hammering on the drives side.......sadly it's right where the seat rail bolts in so Im gonna fab a Trooper seat frame base onto the floor.......no pics of that stuff yet. Next on the list........Radiator support, Battery tray, and finish reassembling transfer case........

What you are calling the collector should be the CAT. Nothing to do but weld up somethin new.

You'd think but I've seen lots of them like that and they are fine. The wheel sticks out way further so you'll hit the tree with the wheel before the snorkel.

What do you mean "sounds like" it wants to shift. Does it rev up without going any faster? Or just in very high RPM range? What are the RPMs of the engine at 60 mph?

Clean mating face no sealant

Press once the stalk to switch between them. Hold it down for 3 secs to reset.

Not removing head. Removing the spacer block that the ASV pipes emerge from. It unbolts from the head.....but then to reinstall the exhaust.....the EXHAUST (not heads) studs need to be moved to the other set of holes If this is in your engine bay near the firewall you have an EA82 model car. What year?

I do believe non-abs EJ cars have one mounted in the engine bay.......different look but works the same.

Check the condition of the connector. If that's all good then I'd guess the alts on it's way out too.

On EA81 cars the tube that feeds the reed valves is mounted to a Block that sandwiches between the head and the y-pipe. The blocks bolt to 2 studs.....the nthe y pipe flange is rotated 90 and bolted to the block on the other 2 studs.. If you remove those blocks.....you have to move the studs to the other holes.....and use a EA82 y pipe cause the EA81 won't reach the head now. EA82 is not the same just remove tubes....block the ports ont he head.

The diode in the factory EJ setup is on the "sense" wire.....the same circuit that powers on the ECU with IG. switch...........NOT THE LAMP CIRCUIT. And it's there to prevent the ECU from keeping the IG. relay closed..... Nothing to do with the field circuit. The diode is there to isolate the ECU......nothing to do with charging except that is the circuit monitored for voltage regulator.......not exciting the feild. The Lamp circuit is the Feild. Run 12v to it and you will be full fielding all the time.......and cooking the circuit when KOEO. A diode only blocks current one way......so if you put 12v though it to ground....it will ground.....and either short or switch on the load depending.....With a diode there what WON"T happen is that when the ALT exictes and the "L" terminal goes high volts it won't be able drive the light off......Because the diode blocks the flow in that direction. That just is not the correct way to wire the system. If you are the expert.....and know what to do then do it and don't bother asking. You asked.....we answered......you are still totally confused and incorrect. Hope you figure it out and don't burn up your project. I liked wheeling with ya.

You need it even more with the discs. Supposedly......to keep the rears from locking too easily. These are diagonal setups......so each circuit feeds one front, and one rear wheel. The proportioning valve balances the force to the rears against eachother. And no you can't just get a splitter......it's 2 seperate hydraulic circuits.......2 lines from the master.......2 lines back to the wheels..... If you want to get rid of it.......you need to just bypass it.......hook the lines straight toghether after determining which ones are for which side.

There are seperate switches at each pedal...... Brakes: One is for brake light.......closes when pedal depressed.........operates light..........there should be a wire on the cruise unit to hook to this to power when the brake light is on. Then there is a seperate switch......that should be closed normally......and then open breaking the circuit when pedal is depressed. This is for the cruise......There should be 12v to one side when the main cruise "on" switch is pushed.....and it should go through the switch back to pin 16 If I am correct. Then if I'm not mistaken.....the clutch switch should be grounded until the clutch pushed in, opening the switch and ungrounding it. Pin 9 Vent output is to the cruise unit when you want to coast/ drop speed it powers on venting the canister.

No.....he's talking about the ASV and Anti-Afterburn system that was in those old Carbies..... To the OP......you can get rid of that plastic canister........If you want to plug the tubes off the exhaust that feed it.........unscrew the large nut on the pipe......shove a Quarter (the coin) in the opening and screw the pipe back in.........blocked off. You can remove those tubes and their base entirely if you want.....but then you gotta screw with swapping exhaust studs......and possibly extending the y-pipe or using EA82 one.

It is important to check on 3 items. Since you followed Miles' video.....I am gonna assume the first 2 are correct. 1)....You used the center of the 3 hash marks for belt alignment, not the TDC marks....correct? 2)....You did rotate the engine once between installing the belts....correct? This should leave each Cam's "dot" mark 180 from eachother. This is the one I suspect...... 3) The plastic covers distort over time.....moveing the marks slightly. The drivers side espescially, it's easy to put the belt a tooth off trying to get it to point at the marks int eh plastic covers......but you can somewhat ignore them.....and place each "dot" excactly vertical when aligning......straight up and down......even if it's not pointing quite at the notch......

It only has 4 gears. Late shift is the RS shift mapping.

Yeah.....they seem to be. I think it's a combo of the 4.11 trans, and the ECU/TCU interface like you said........I don't think the ECU will kick in the fuel/advance until you stomp it to the floor quickly, triggering the "power" map of the trans......downshift.....etc.....then you get the goods from the ECU. Also the engine's Cams are setup more for torque and efficiency not so much HP. I've always wanted to see what one felt like with a manual.......And I wonder if a retune to a more aggressive fuel map would help? Might kill the mileage......they do really well on mileage considering the additional 2cyls.

Spinning faster than the car is driving? That would indicate broken passenger side axle.....which would produce the "no park" condition after the engine is off.

I don't understand?

Very odd. The parking pawl is purely mechanical........it isn't hydraulically or electircally connected to anything. When the cable moves to park......the pawl should drop into place against the output drum in the trans. I would maybe suspect the cable. One question......if you move it to park.......let it engage (car won't roll).....then turn off the key does it keep holding in "P" or does car start to roll?

Year? Model? Engine? Any work done recently?

You mean it moves into "P" but doesn't hold the car? Or that it won't move into "P"? There is supposed to be an interlock in the steering column to prevent removing the key before the shifter is in "P" not sure if that's connected. Also fix the handbrake.......The shoes can be adjusted out through the backing plate.