Gloyale

The shorting out happens from running 12v directly to a ground source........which the "L" terminal is until the alt starts spinning. Adding a diode would not help. your are still putting 12v directly to ground........if there is no load.....it will fry the circuit. IN fact the diode will PREVENT the Alt from being able to turn off the charge light........not excactly sire what that would do but it wouldn't be good......could make the Alt full field all the time...(until the fuse blew or wire fried) If anything......you'd need a Resistor.....not a Diode. Look......I've wired up EJ alts in DOZENS of vehichles now.............went through lots of headaches with Gen 1 external regulated setups.......Studied and seached and figured this all out to were I could wire your EJ Alt to any 12v system and make it work.............BUT IT WOULD NEED A CHARGE LIGHT! I don't understand the resistance to having a charge light......It's a great way to monitor the Fielding cicuit. I also don't understand the resistance to good advice........You asked.......we gave the answer. Fry your wiring all you want or listen to the answer since you are the one that asked in the first place. B/W wire is Switched 12v White/red is charge light

Sounds like someone used a cheap paper gasket. Make sure you use a metal, OEM one.

Flip it over. No problem. Use Permatex "The RIght Stuff" black Adhesive RTV. It's far superior to other RTV........assemble immediately......cures in minutes.........incredible bonding power to clean metal. And easy to reuse since it self plugs.....then you pull out the rubbery plug and good to go..... I would still put sealant on the pan....not the block.......since the placement of the bead on the pan is more critical (the block is flat, the pan has a groove in it) You want the bead to lay right down the middle of that groove. Make sure to use a good O-ring at the back where the PCV drain is......if not you will suck oily vapors into the intake though PCV.

It's cool. I learned after ruining the adjusters in my first Soob (EA82). I sucessfully compressed them with a C-clamp.............then replaced them 6 months later when the E-brake would not release....... That was 1996.

How do you hold it to tighten? Antother thing to note is do not use an impact or an air ratchet on this nut while it's installed in the engine. If it doesn't crack the nut......and the pulley is spun counterclockwise it can destroy the Filter bypass valve. They aren't meant to pump oil backwards.

You need an ALT light. Period. If you don't put a load on that circuit.......when you turn the key to on it will blow the fuse for that cicuit (or just fry it if not fused propely) This is because until the alt starts turning......that terminal is GROUND......go ahead......run a 12v wire straight to it and see what happens. When the alt starts spinning the Voltage goes up and drives that line high........turning off the light.....this balance of 12v at the bulb is critical to properly excite the field. You want the sense wire on the ECU circuit......since that is the most critical place to have stable voltage. I don't know why you think it has to be "electrically distant" They don't hook up alternator circuits to the taillights now do they??? get that out of your mind. You need an alt light. Some alts use switched sense.....other straight to the battery but unless we are talking one wire GM there needs to be a charge light. BTW.......run the Charge wire through a Fusible link.....or a Maxifuse......not just an inline......it needs to be able to handle the Alts max amperage. So......at least 85 AMPs......I would think a 100 or 120 amp maxi fuse would be good.

Well.....you kinduv need one......It needs a "loaded" voltage to excite the feild..... Meaning a voltage not just from Ig. switch......but through a draw of some sort first, so that there is a drop in voltage on that circuit relative to the other "Sense" wire. The sense wire that for that Alt is where the EJ's Yellow wire would be......switched 12v same circuit as ECU power on. Later models there is no switched power wire.....just the charge lamp and battery voltage for sense.

Jono.... the early 87 model we got here had the "flat" intake w/ the last of Flapper MAFs and 3 plug ECU, Vacuum disty w/knock box.....etc...

I Know the book I have clearly lists info, pictures, specs, flowcharts for the Spider intake with and without turbo setups. I only have section 2 and 3 (one book) It's got detail on the setup with the Hotwire MAF/4 plug ECU setup w/ 4 wire single connector TPS (vs. double 3 wire connectors on "flat" intakes of same year) Wish I still had a scanner that worked and more time.......but if any info is specifically needed I can try lookin stuff up.

Yeah.......Still doesn't help the lense chip water in housing rusted reflector issue. But I get were your coming from.....sorta...... I personally think the coolness of these cars is that they are 80's......neither GLs nor DLs really look "modern". For that reason I like the DL's "Old School" look espescialy when coupled with the ease of service and low cost bright light.

It's an EA w/ front ebrake thing. You have to turn the piston to run it back into the cylinder. If you force it with a clamp you ruin the self adjuster in it. Besides............There is nowhere to clamp against on the back of the caliper. The E-brake mechanism, under a big rubber boot is on the back side. If you did your brat that way I'm sorry......you ruined the self adjuster......you may have problems eventually.

For future you don't want to blow compressed air though the fuel supply line. Espescially not though the filter. Compressed air could have trapped pressure between the regulator and the 2 way rollover valve. Fuel could not enter until the pressure was released. If you have to back blow a line use regulated air below ~20 psi.

If the Warning lights are on that means the "charge" light ciruit of the alt. (which also excites the feild) is open. Not working. So......If the Alternator bench tested as good......then I would guess the "charge" fuse is blown........or the connector for that wire is poor. The problem is definately the Alts. charge cicuit if all those lights are on. Check the fuse first.....could be that simple.

If it's a "fat case" EA71 then you can use EA82 SPFI on it. Requires adapting EA82 optical disty to fit the EA71, and of course the intake and harness/ECU. Won't really make much more if any power but may be smoother/ more efficient

Seems like you could achieve the ride height you want by clocking the inners, and using the adjustment bolt. 6mm is barely a 1/4" of difference......and there is way more adjustment than that available from the bolt. Not sure that it's really worth it to try to seperate those......Looking at the design.........I personally wouldn't want that end to be able to slide off........It pretty much relies on being a press fit that WON'T seperate or slip while driving since that could affect the rear end alignment and allow shifting.

Oil pump is driven by DRIVERS side belt. (For LHD) Same as the disty. Smart cause you don't want the engine running with the oil pump not spinning......and they can run with no passenger side belt. This is a broken timing belt. Can tell by the sound

EJ22 is not a WRX swap. WRX swap is completely complicated.......and the Brat trans and chassis can't hold that much power without mods. EJ22 is a Non-turbo engine used in Impreza and Legacy. Search "EA/EJ swap" EJ22 swap can be done without modifying anything else in the car. And yeilds 130 hp........about 80% increase from the EA81

Any 5spd will bolt in. If you get a turbo 5spd you will need to get turbo axles to match (25 spline)

Pretty simple really......Not a hard swap at all. You need the Headlamps, the mounting/adjuster bracket they are in, and the corner markers.....since the DL ones won't fit. FWIW......you are downgrading....the DL setup offers more light, and the easy ability to replace scratched, chipped, or broken lenses. By contrast ......the GL lights are notoriously weak to begin with......and most of them are scratched, chipped, fill with water or worst of all the reflective coating inside rusts and stops reflecting. I too would happily trade you for your DL setup.

Expensive for new. Used one will fail again later. In the late 90's and early 2000's ......it was 80's subarus having this failure. Now it's 90's ones having the problem. Makes sense.....since the ignition switches havent' changed at all really........time/miles/# of times operated........they fail. Replacing it means disasembly of a large portion of the steering column......... By contrast.....adding a relay can be done in 10 mins......by simply opening the hood......and maybe taking off the intake boot. You can prewire it with a Eyelet and fuse to attach to the large post on the starter.....an eyelet to ground to the 10mm bolt near the transistor.......a female spade to connect to the starter solenoid......and a male spade to plug into the OE starter wire.........

96+ EJ22 has both. MAP is right behind MAF and air cleaner..........and there is a Solenoid that switches between atmosphere and intake pressure and the computer compares. Doesn't have anything to do with shifting/trans issues. Hate to say....but that trans is toast.

Oil still needs to be able to flow around each tower and on to the next chamber. If you block the HLA gallery........Oil will not get to the Relief valve, or the relief pipe (the pipe that drips oil on the rockers). You would be effectively deadheading the pump too......since it would be blocked from the relief valves.\ So whatever you make.....just make sure it has the notch in the middle for oil to flow around and through the galleries.

Well you don't want 2.7 stuff......it's all different. This model.....the spider intake Turbo 4cyl.........is basically the same as any 88 turbo......the main connectors at the engine use a different connector, a few different colors wires but basically the operation is just the same......especially I would think in Aus....since you got more spider intake turbo models. For us.....the differences between 87.5 turbo, and 88 turbos in wagons/sedans, is a TPS that is physically different.....alough reads in all the same ranges........and the IAC....which is mounted on the Thermo cap on "Flat" intakes.......and below the runners on spiders.......again physically different, but operates the same. Electrical troubleshooting would be the same with the exception of those few wire colors and device locations.

Yeah......the Reference voltage and signal voltage pins are swapped at the ECU. You can interchange 87 ECUs with later ones by swapping those 2 pins......easier to do at the Disty connector rather than the ECU..... Mine Covers all the Spider Turbo and other cahnges for the 87.5......but just says 87 on the cover. Printed Feb of 87.

I think you are incorrect on your wires....Basically you can ignore most of the EA wiring......since it's for External regulated. White red wire at the Regulator is the Charge lamp. If you aren't using the orignal dash......just ignore that wire and add you own charge light. If you are using an 95 or newer EJ alt......that's the only wire it needs other than the Main charge wire. If you are using an Older EJ alt....You also need an Ig. switched power source. What year Alt are you using? What shape and how many pins in the plug?