Gloyale

22mm socket. Weak ig. switch. Add a relay to starting system......or pushbtton.......or both.

Starter contacts help.....sometimes..........but what's really going on is the ignition switch is getting weak. Adding a relay at the starter is the way to deal with this. Fused power tapped of the Pos cable.....triggered by the original starter wire.

You need to unload the self adjuster. it's holding the brakes close to the drum.....and they are catching on the lip. Look on the back of the arm.....at the backing plate........close to the spindle, is a small rubber plug. Remove it...... Looking inside you should see the back of the adjuster.....it's got a Cam shaped lobe with fine ridging/teeth on it. Use a long skinny screwdriver to push the cam off the ridges/teeth........ It's akin to "backing off" the starwheel type adjusters of most drum brakes. It's just that these subies use a funky Cam based adjuster.

Hmm.....Well you could be right about 85.......My 85 FSM doesn't have much XT stuff....but has some.....it's weird.....the 85 FSM is kinduv a mess with typos, editing, and old school crappy wiring diagrahms. Maybe they produced a supplement for the XT? My 85 parts catalog has all EA82s toghether as well (and not any EA81 stuff) 86 FSM definately has both lumped in toghether. Shows a picture of the XT on the cover. And has complete seperate sections in body and wiring that covers all XT stuff. 87 starts the seperate, Red colored, FSMs for XTs.

I've got part #s here......not sure if you can still get them from Subaru though. 48587 7000 is the Friction Plate 48590 7001 is friction Disk......1.65 mm 48590 7002 is friction Disk......1.90 mm 48593 7001 is thrust washer 1.60mm 7002 is thrust washer 1.75mm 7003 _____________ 1.85mm 7220 40000 is the Full LSD assembly.

I've got section 2/3 (engine and transmission) for the 87 model......It covers the Spider intake/Turbo model. It says "87" but covers the 87.5 updates. I actually think this was the time they seperated the XT into it's own FSM......previous years it's lumped into the EA82 FSMs. What is it excactly you need to reference? 87.5 was the last of the Turbo 4cyl model......and the only turbos to get the Spider intake. (85/86/87 use the "flat" intake....Flapper MAF, 3 plug ECU) 88 they introduced the XT6.....Dropped the Turbo 4cyl. N/A 4 cyls were still available in both 2wd and 4wd til the end of the production run.

Make sure to get a Tungsten-Carbide bit.........the standard Carbide bits aren't really up to the task. Tungsten bit.......Shallow, light passes.......just like in a mill.

Don't do this. Youd notice more issues than just running hot if it was a Cam timing issue......... And retorquing heads with god knows how many 100k miles is not a good idea either..........big risk for the amount of work invovled to even get to the head bolts....a retorque could seal a small leak......or it could move the gasket and make it gush instead of seep. To the OP....sounds like a combo of a cheapo thermostat (slow to open.....resticted flow).....and air in the system. Park on a slope.....nose up......let it cool off......fill radiator, fill overflow. Cap it and run it til its' warm........then let it cool off again til you can open it without steaming out.....then fill again.

DON"T USE A HEAT GUN!!! Put em in the OVEN You want the entire glass lens to heat up at the same time. Heating one edge only will crack the glass. A blowdrier isn't hot enough but a heat gun definately is hot enough to crack the glass.

This is why I bought my own tire machine....... I routinely mount up and run tires up to 15 years old........it all depends what condition they are in, how they were stored, how many miles.....etc.. It's just stupid to say that a tire with zero miles that sat on a shelf for 5 years is "a bad tire". I buy 5-10 year old used tires all the time and run em... I'm pretty sure the tires on my service truck are from the 80's.......recently put a new tube in one cause the stem ripped.......Tire was still flexible and mounted easy (split rims)

86 was the last production year for the Brat in the US (87 models)....last model we got with an EA81 (some STD hatches with fat EA71 til 89) 30 years is the cutoff.......they will not make any new parts for these cars.....and what's in stock is nearly gone. If there are any true "OE" parts available.....they will be contracted to be made by the OE supplier but sold directly to the parts houses like worldpak....OPparts....or other. Subaru is not goin to sell that stuff anymore......Their new computer systems don't even list them.....My dealership has to open "the old program" or straight up the paper catalog to look up anything.......they call me now cause I have better catalogs than them for EA81 and EA82 parts.

I did that with an old GL-10 wagon......... The sunroof had blown out......the mounting brackets/rails were gone.....So..........I glued in a new sunroof panel. It had a few supports underneath holding it from falling in........ And the roof rack rails added on the top just barely overlapped the edge of the sunroff so it couldn't blow up and out.....It was glued in so well it never tried to move.....but the rails gave me a little insurance that it wouldn't fly out and damage the car behind me on the freeway.

No cable = no latch Should just push open.

Since I am not familiar with the FI setup on your AUSDM I can't say for sure..... But ussualy the big issues going from Phase II back to Phase I is the IAC. Phase II use stepper motor multiple stage.......Phase I are simple push/pull coils...... When I do Phase I into Phase II cars this is the recipe Phase I engine/heads. Phase I 2.2 intake.......But modified to work in the Phase II car........with the wiring harness from the Phase II merged onto it (may require splicing Injector tails), and Phase II throttle body......possibly with a plate fashioned to sit between it and manifold to block off the open IAC port on Phase II TB. And likely need to block off the Phase I IAC...... with this setup the car will run great....but may set idle control codes.....and will need warmed up for 30secs-1min in the mornings.

They don't work as turning brakes......But do work very well if you get a rear tire stuck in the air spinning like crazy. Stop first.......set the handle then PUNCH IT.

No Brat and Wagon lights are completely different

Re-headgasket and seal the one she has. Nothing used to drop in will have much less.....and will soon need maintained. Whereas if she has a good running engine with a known history of oil changes and care once resealed (w/ new t belt and w.pump too) it will be good for another 100K. And that could all be done for the same money or cheaper than used unless you didn't touch any seals/pump/t-belt on teh used jsut dropped in.......but that's waiting for more problems soon......gotta do all that to keep any warranty anyhow.

If you are "crawling" though a mudhole deep enough for your belts to submerged you WILL skip teeth quickly......at least in the clay soup we have up here you will. Every time......If you are lucky you might make it out of the hole running on 2 cyl or half advanced or retarded (correct use of word) New belts, tensioners and seal the timing covers well each time won't be any mud in there.....inspect them once in while in the nice warm shop with air tools. Not covered in mud......after lookin like a noob getting swamped out and pulled out or worse trying to reset the timing with the engine still half underwater ............NO THANKS. I can't see taking that risk all for saving a few minutes with a 10mm on a 1/4 drive ratchet. And if you wheel alot and break belts they add up quick $ they are cheap but not free......I'd rather buy gas. Covers FTW every time unless it's a grocery getter flatlander car. And even in that case unless you are so broke running old belts crap expetin them to break or somethin. My $.02

I was somewhat confused.....It is the Main relay, not the Fuel relay that is given 12v+ by the ECU. But in red above lay the problem. Those wires BECOME energized and switch to ON by the relay.......they are the Load sides of a Double pole relay. (they supply all the solenoids,IAC,Maf,Coil transistor in the engine bay) The Green/Black is the 12v+ side of the relay's coil and of course the ground is ground. The Green/Black wire is supplied power by the ECU when the ECU is given power. Powering on your EJ's harness should be done at pin c10 of the ECU connector.....Which should be a Green/red wire. You are indeed correct that the Green/red wire at the Fuel pump relay should get Ig. 12v+..........This wire should connect back to the ECU at pin c10. Somewhere in the strip down they got chopped apart......but should connected.

Won't keep out watery mudhole debris.....not unless you turn it into a boat.

It's actually the Neutral switch not the clutch switch that the ECU monitors to know weather in gear or not. The switche(s) on the clutch pedal are for the Starter lockout, and the Cruise disable......neither are connected to the ECU. An ECU switch on the clutch as well could be a good thing....but it's not there. People sometimes use a Clutch mounted switch to mimic a nuetral switch when installing EJ engines in older cars.....or old trans in newer cars. Combination of cold engine, A/C on, and coasting w/ clutch in but shifter still in gear through a turn (really a no-no......shift before or after the turn.....not in it....and definately souldn't coast through turns with clutch in) If you are goin to coast.......move the shifter to Nuetral immediately and let clutch out........when you coast w/ clutch in but don't move the shifter the engine trys to cut fuel thinking you are rolling downhill in gear trying to engine brake. Combined w/ AC on and just an old engine.......you stalled....that's why the warning lights came on and power steering stopped working.

If it got ran with that mocha Latte in the oil......I would trash it or do a full rebuild....the bearings are toast. been down that road......regasketed an EA81 engine that was like that on;y to have it toss a rod 2 months later.

You can loosen the tensioner bolts.....and let the spring take up the belt slack.....then crank the bolts back down. That's all you can do through the access holes....helps to do every other oil change just to keep belts tight...... But to actually reposition the belt timing......you will need to take off the covers. I personally wouldn't run no covers unless its strictly an on road car.

So......the projector headlight thread has alot of talk in it about relocating the Turn signals to the corner markers.........For better visibilty to other drivers, and to upen up room for foglights in teh stock location below the bumper. So I thought I woudl post about how I did mine..... Originally just wired the marker lights to be turns......but that left no marker light......and the old fixtures were cracked and broken, and they blinked clear not amber... and the wattage being off makes em blink fast. Plus....Like I said the old fixtures for the larger bulb are ussually cracked and wont stay in place cause the tabs are busted off. So next I tried this Ford pickup dual filament socket.....with a ground spade on the edge. Used a stepper bit to hog out the OE hole until the ford socket slipped in. Wired it up.......Amber running light, Brighter Amber Turnsignal...the small yellow light is left as a Corner makrer. Works excellent.......I'm gonna do this to the GFs car real soon.

That's an EA81 GL , not an EA82 DL..... Those housings won't bolt up to an EA82 car.