Gloyale

Yeah....but OE isn't goin to exist pretty soon.... Dealerships aren't going to keep ordering parts for 30 year old cars..... Mark my words.........by 2016.......you won't be able to get any OE parts for EA cars at all. Espescially EA81

The light the OP talked about is not an alarm....... BUT>>> there is an alarm on the Digidash turbos for overrevving........take it to 6500 rpm and it will beep at you!! no kidding.....not his problem but interesting...... To the OP......definately check the disty rotor screw.

I am only talking about the front spacers. The Front Crossmember spacers do fit a Gen 3 L series perfectly. Will not fit Gen II. The trans mount spacers are just a single "puck" of steel that goes between the body and the trans crossmember...Sometimes they are stuck by paint to the Outback transmount, but wack 'em and they come off........you'll need longer bolts than stock.

So....on the fuel pump relay....The Green/Red wire....are you providing that with switched power????.....I'm pretty sure it should get powered on by the ECU..... And the main relay.......When you say 3+4 are switched power....are you saying you put power to thoses wires?? Or that those are the ones that get powered on when you turn the key? IIRC.....I think you on;y need to provide a switched power to the ECU...and it should turn on the FP relay. What year model is your harness from???

Works on an EA81 in an EA82 body car with EA82 radiator.

Check all the connections of the fusible links under hood, and the big spade that feeds the fusible links box. Also, check the connection of the ignition switch to the harness (6 pole pink) Either of these having bad connection/corrosion/heatwarp will cause the voltmeter to give faulty readings. This will cause the alt to sometimes overcharge because the "sense" wire coming from Ig. reads low so the Alt cranks up to try and maintain voltage.

That's not annealing. It is not softening......it is even heating and slow cooling to not create stress zones in metal that has been worked, heated unevenly, reshaped or of varying thickness. The term also applies in the same way to Glass, Ceramics, and Precious metals and Gem setting. Annealing is the process of relieving strain and uneven packing of molecules within metal after welding/forging/bending or what have you. +1 this is why....

4/3 will leave you in the range of adjustable to get to level using the torsion bar bolt.

The EA81 formerly known as Prince.

Yeah.....but the posters in this thread are talking about breaking on torque down.......and breaking when reusing to reseal a pan. That too is often due to corrosion....but more often from the driving environment, salrt on roads.....etc....and of course overtightening.

was the speedo not working? That would definately cause no Curise Control.

Probably the rubber insert from a spark plug socket that got left behind by the last person to change them. What I do is take a coat hanger, and bend over a tang all the way back on itself....about 1/4"....hammer it flat and tight kinda like a spear end.........Lube it up with WD and try to shove it down inbetween the spark plug and the rubber sleeve.....if you can get it all the way to the bottom past the lip, it will catch as you pull back out and remove the rubber sleeve. I have a socket with a glued in liner specifically for doing 2.5 DOHC plugs......Make sure the socket you use to install the new plugs has a liner that won't come out.

Which one are you talking about being the one that solved the code on your XT? The part you listed is a 2 wire....? .........a single wire sensor would be the one for the gauge that the computer doesn't care about.....or even monitor...How would it solve a code? The FSM flowchart shows for the aspirated air code to inspect and/or replace the MAF......not an individual sensor and certainly not on the back of the block..... There is just something inaccurate or confused with your claims..... I'd like to see it solved....., and I will certainly take you up on a beer sometime.....Perhaps this summer at the Evans Creek run...

I would love to see a picture. And think about it.....how could a sensor screwed into the block measure intake air tempature??? Not trying to "argue" either. And I'm not calling you a liar. It's just I am A stickler for accurate information being distibuted here......otherwise.....what's the point right? Something just doesn;t add up with your claim of a that a 2 wire, aspitrated air temp sensor located ont eh back of the manifold of an 86 XT had anything to do with a code or even exists on your car.........I would love to figure out what the discrepency in our perceptions is? Perhaps you are remembering work you did to the Brat?

A quick seacrh of the internets brings up lots of reports of Vivas being cheap, wearing excessively on the outside, and blowing out.

Yes Digidash always also had trip computer for EA82 (Leone/L series gen III) models It is possible to swap between the 2 by cuting/spliceing/repining the wires in the car to match either Dash.... You would need to find a very accurate wiring diagrahm for your Finland model dash......and then If you get a USDM or JDM digidash you need the wiring pigtails with it and again an accurate diagrahm. I could provide you with a USDM wiring diarahm /pinout for either type of digidash..... Now ALSO adding the trip computer.....you would really be best to get the whole front harness from the GL-10 add to the car. Trying to splice in the trip computer would be tough......But anything can be done with accurate wiring diagrahms.

Also this beck arnley 039-6309 This part # brings up a big variety of more correct looking type. I don't like the "triangle shape" of those aftermarket.......leaves a narrow spot rather than an even contact surface like the OE type.

These look better.....more exactly shaped and same looking material as OE. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ITM-Engine-Components-09-51326-Intake-Manifold-Gasket-/321355972685?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4ad24f004d&vxp=mtr

I have an 86 with the glue on trim...... When I painted the car, to reapply the trim I used "the RIght Stuff" sealant/adhesive.........masking tape for the first 24 hours to hold mouldings in palce while it sets........and it's been on there for 3 years now..... Might be easier than trying to find clips.

Oil cooler O-ring. The get old and leak......same as on the 4 cyl engines, but on the H6....it sits "sideways" makes installig the new seal just a bit harder than the 4cyls.

Hmm......I know it's been done.

There is not an Air intake tempature sensor on the posters 88 turbo. there should not be a seperatae air temp sensors in an 86 XT either. There is an air temp sensor built into the flapper MAF. There are only 2 "sensors" for temp on an 88 turbo and only one that the ECU cares about......it's behind and below the intake runner on the passenger side of coolant crossover. (spider intakes it's drivers side) The single prong one is for the gauge. Tat2Brat......that's the knock sensor at the back of the block. Not temp sensor. The part # you reference is correct for Carbed models...but has nothing to do with FI models. Not sure why they list that....but it's clearly not in the daigrahms. The ECU of the flappers pin 2 Lg/W wire is air intake temp signal FROM THE MAF.......not any seperate part.

With this being a 99......and the fact the cruise does work after a bit of time......I'd guess this to be a speedo issue. 99s are known for a faulty ground in the board, and the speedo failing. If the speedo head doesn't send a proper speed signal to the CC it will not work. Just a guess.....I betting the buttons are good.

Diesels don't care how much air there is. Gas enignes do. Air leak= not enough air pulled thorugh Air Flow meter = not enoguh fuel injected to start.

No all xt's do not have trip computers. Many were "DL" trim with manual windows, and no back seat.