Gloyale

He said he did that in the first sentence. He called them "the solenoid" but both are true, they're actually set of solenoid switches. He also said he's reversed them to no affect. Gary.....What I would do is first check for 12v alternately to each solenoid as the button is switched. Just verify voltage....if neither has voltage both will be closed so no 4wd movement....OK? No power....test at switch and so on. Got power? If yes then next, to test the diaphragm find the 2 vac lines leading down to the diaphragm from the solenoids.........take the Vac supply line while the engine is running (make sure it got vac) and alternately apply vac to each of the diaphragm lines......IIRC the line on the cable side is the "pusher" side that moves the cable into 4wd. If you get no response, try pulling the cotter pin from the cable and testing the actual lever on the lower pass. side of trans rear. If the lever moves but still the cable will not then the diaphragm is bad.

That's the Knock sensor. Not air temp. There is no air temp sensor on EA82 MPFI. engine CTS and gauge sender only. Ironically......old carbed ones DO Have an air temp switch. To the OP.....you're CTS, the one used by the ECU.....should be on the rear, passenger side of the intake......kinda below the turbo intake on the crossover part of the intake. Brown Bosch style connector...2 pins...you will probably want to buy a new conncetor and splice it on the OE ones get corroded. Likely not the stalling issue though......I'd suspect air leak.....check all the PCV hoses and check the intake boot for cracking where it mates to the turbo.

Your comparison to jeeps is funny. They wrap their wiring in duct tape.....seriously.....duct tape. Subarus are VASTLY better wired. And my wheeler has been submerged above the window line on the doors.......MANY TIMES..........Starting in 2008......5 years of mudholes and river crossings and literally hosing out the inside when done. I didn't say that the car would never have any problems.......I said it'd be "fine" which means driveable and useable for another 10years or whatever the regular lifespan of a car in finland is...(lots of de icer) Yeah.....maybe the wipers will quit and need fixed, or maybe the vents will get funky......but it will keep running.....It's a Subaru.

Needing an Oil change won't trigger the CEL or CC lights. Your mechanic should know that........you should get a different mechanic. I'll bet the code is for VSS (speed sensor)....it's one that trips both CEL and CC lights. Fine to drive....but your gas mileage may suffer.

Hmm.......Not sure why you think I'd be better off?......I'm fine.....you are the one breaking oil pan bolts and blaming it on "slow cooling"........g'me a break..... Well....let's see.....you are the "one" giving you're "opinion" getting new bolts for the oil pump. I represent 15+ years of owning and working on these particular vehichles we speak of. I have sealed more Subaru oil pans than you have posts. So ......yeah......you're right.....we should let people to decide whether to listen to "one persons opinion"........or the experience of others.

XT engines have that multirib pulley......but that would be dual port heads...

That's not the ashtrtay. Look closely...the ashtray is still there. It's the cubby below the ashtray, were you would keep a phone or whatever.......which I personally would hate having that area filled by the useless trip computer.....it's only useful function is the temp gauge...... Which subaru figured out and since then equipped almost all newer ones with Outside Temp gauge in the dash....but no "arrive estimator" or "range" features....LOL

If you put both back to the marks....there is no problem. There shouldn't be any "preload" at all on the ring gear while doing this.. Feeling the cup binding a bit as you thread it in is normal......especially if you didn't use a new o-ring and lube it up.

Those were salt water flooding events. This is a fresh water lake.....I'll bet it keeps working fine

We can see now that you don't like to listen to good advice............keep on fryin them clutches buddy.

EA71/81 cranks MIGHT be swappable between blocks...... But Neither will fit in an EA82.....there is nowehere for the disty drive gear to go.....it's right were the #1 main would be. They all share teh same bore size. So.........an EA81 IS ALREADY a Stroker EA71....... So you could say an EA71 is a DESTROKED ea81.... And the EA81 and 82 share the same bore and stroke......only HP difference is in the heads and the cams. If you really think Destroking an EA82 would be a good idea............try driving a Sube with an EA71.....you'll get the idea what that combo would be like.

Useless advice. a 200 degree engine is not hot enough to affect the strenght of these bolts. Besides.....how strong do they need to be to hold 4 ft/lbs........LOL I've reused 100's of oil pan bolts....... I don't bother with the crappy cork gasket anymore. Relying on cork for gaskets is waiting to be let down. I seal the pan with "the Right Stuff" high grade RTV same as with EJ oil pans and 4EAT trans pans. Works great. Done it to EA81 and EA82 engines now. Besides.....cork trees are becomeing endangered.

Well.....if you are talkin about the rear output.....then yes it pops out, presses in .....>E-Z> When you say "transaxle" seals I think we all assumed you were talking about the front outputs......which are the transaxle. That's what this whole thread is about. The rear output on anything but a subaru......would be part of a RWD "transmission"........no axle.

Actually the MPFI cars, including the turbos......have a slighty different block......vent baffles for the crankcase not just in heads. Nahhh......The "T" designation is unofficial, and used by the community to easily tell when we are talking Turbo engine or N/A........There aren't any "T"s cast in the stamps on EA or EJ engines. If you find it burns coolant......pull the exhaust off the heads, and look inside the exhaust port for cracks in the wall between the cylinders.

Best way to do make these is to press the material over the hole in the head.....then use a small ball peen hammer to "imprint" the pattern into the material..If you do it just right, the "drops" will just peel right out.....no need for scissors or razor knife.

Get the crossmember and trans mount spacers off of a 95-99 Outback or early forester. These are 1 1/4" and will bolt right in. 90-94 Legacy steering coupler will fit.

Nah....that's the old add-on EA82 style cruise. Factory EA82s, and all EJ body cars (Leg, Imp, For) use an electric vac pump.......there is no Vacuum supplied by intake manifold for cruise. The OP's car the electric pump and the cable solenoid are a combined unit.....with only a 1" long little bent hose connecting the 2 parts of the unit....Potter, you were probably looking right at it with the cable...the "vertical box" you mentioned.

No...there are o-rings....not a tapered compression fitting.

Then your not noticing, or the Temp switch in the radiator is bad.

Or at least file the lip off. If that washer can't compress into the hub it won't lock down onto the axle. It would also be good to check the condition of the splines in the hub, and on the axle.....if the splines are pointed at the top....they are worn....each spline should have a flat spot on the high part of the ridge.

that's why. All with automatics use the same length driveline. No.....they mount in the same place....you can't move the trans back....it would put the front inner axle cups out of line with the wheels. Different shape to bracket is for the H6 dual exhaust vs. H4

You don't need to do that. Install the cup back to the spot you marked it. Done. I never use the special tool. if anything, pull the drain plug, and put your finger in the hole and wiggle the ring gear back and forth against the pinion......it should barely rock a tiny amount. about .010" or .25mm. If there is a big play or non at all adjust. Myself and my customers have put 200k+ combined miles diffs I've serviced....and I've never used the "special tool". A deflection gauge is helpful but it's not hard to feel a .010 gap.

2wd front struts will lower the front. Different design up front, common between 2wd and 4wd so on the 2wds the front struts are shorter. But as said, because of the different mountings on the cars 2wd vs. 4wd the 2wds are longer in the back and will lift the back of a 4wd car. Use the older, compressed rubber bumpers and I'll bet it'll fit.

Short answer is yes. details depend on excact year/models of car/engines. but generally any subaru engine can be swapped into another subaru with some amount of work.

I'll bet the Cam caps were mixed up or on upside down. They all only have one loctaion and direction.