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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Vacuum hose disconnected from the 4wd solenoids.
  2. Maybe YOU do that. The rest of us don't. That's a vent hole. One top, one bottom..... That's so condesation doesn't build up inside the chamber and rust around the seal. It's supposed to be open so moisture can vent out. Can't say that putting RTV in there would cause anything TOO bad.......but it's not helping squat......not nessecary at all.
  3. The cone washer MUST NOT have a ridge on it's face, or on it's beveled edge. If it does......it will catch and not seat into the hub. The sesating into the hub forces it to clamp tightly onto the axle shaft. This clamp force is what keeps the shaft from moving inside the hub. You can use a file to clean up the sides and face to get rid of any edges. Beveled washer is absolutely supposed to go only one way......dome out.....It keeps a spring loading on the cone.....install it backwards and it will be more likely top loosen up.
  4. Not much. I'd say between 140-180 Ft.Lbs.... I know I've blown a couple of them up with just an EJ22 and big tires. Gotta be gentle rolling on the throttle.
  5. Yes they need to be angled or you will have bad camber. Can't make them too steep though......not at over 4" since it will hit the body. I make them at 10 Degrees.
  6. The ground side of the relay coil grounds out through the mode panel switch. Red/White wire..............If the selector is "off" the relay does not pass 12v through to fan. It's like that on all models....with or without A/C......since all US models were wired for A/C install.
  7. The square ones in Legacies/Impreza are interchangable with the old round ones.
  8. This could be helpful........but as I said......It shows the factory type that came on GL-10s........with an elecrical vac pump.... The system the OP Is trying to install is the Canister type run off the engine vacuum. But the diagrahm shows a good deal of the wiring. just there is no pump but a vacuum resevior. Edit.....I don't see a canister but it mentions it in the description.......so.......who the hell knows.....it's Chiltons.
  9. 1 and 2 are parts of the Evap system. 1 shows the open port.......2 is the solenoid that should be connected there.....And should be bolted down to the open bolt hole in #1. 3, 4, 5 are unused connectors for A/C and a test connector.
  10. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    A little more today. Hard to get anything done.....every time I get set to weld....the wind picks up.....a 1mph breeze is enough to completely blow away my shielding gasses........aaaaarrrrrrrgggghhhhhh!!! WARNING! THE WELDS YOU ARE ABOUT TO SEE ARE CRAP.................and will be blasted over with the 220v machine, in the still air of a nice warm shop.......once I get this thing trailer ready with steering..LOL Her first flex.........isn't it adorable....... Drivers side rear wheel well clearanced......this is almost completely flexed out......the bumpstops will hit before it touches the body now. I cut the outer skin away, and pounded the inner fenderwell until it met up with the new edge, then welded.....ugly.....damn wind.....but it's good enough.
  11. So....I would like to help.....But the Dealer install cruise kits are not shown in the FSMs...I looked. The FSM has the factory type setup....which came on GL-10's and used an electric pump not engine vac. The kit you have I believe is made by Ford (FoMoCo). Should have a big ball canister, a valve assembly, a group of 4 or 5 wires into the cab, and the buttons for inside. I can tell you the VSS signal plugs into the "T" connector way up in the upper left corner of the Dash....Yellow/Red and Black wires. The Brake switch will need added.....clutch too if it's MT. Newer Set/Resume buttons can be mounted in the older wheels.(I've got an 88 button set on an 86 wheel)...or use the newer button, or use whatever steering wheel you want. You'll need to pull it anyhow to replace the single wire slip-ring with the 3 wire one in the kit. Lt. Green/red wire coming out of fusebox is 12V power to "cruise" switch on upper left dash. The kit should be setup to mostly plug and play.
  12. This would indicate a problem with the selector switch.
  13. Sounds like a difference in adjustment. They should be the same clutch. Both are turbo so should have the spring loaded cable mount to the pedal.....so they feel differnet than the N/A cars...... If the spring has been ditched for an N/A cable that would make them feel different.
  14. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    They are junk. One's bent.....the other has no rebound or dampening Both had the springs cut down about 2" for a ghetto lowride job back when it was a car. It's on;y forward from where it had been about 2". Just enough. I thought it was Early may......but they had an early event in Februaury at the same location.......so I don't if there will be another in May. Gonna just keep pluggin along.
  15. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Body moved forward. And the first of the welded mounting points fixed. It's not moving again without a grinder. A few pics of the mounting blocks. These will get more gussets later.
  16. What are you talking about? My Subaru regularly wheels with jeeps and occasionally schools them. You drop the subframes too with the bigger lifts. You need to search. Lots of 6" kits out there. Including at HighGuysLifts.com
  17. Yeah....axles are different. Even though your 84 is turbo......it's a 3AT.....so still has on;y 23 spline and the 86 5spd turbo trans will be 25.
  18. Those are ASV pipes. Nothing to do with EGR. EGR is the pipe from top of pass...side head to manifold. That could actually be a valve seeping a bit........worse when warmed up.....popping through intake.......sounds like an intake valve.
  19. Doesn't work well with the 3AT The hydraulic clutchpack isn't designed for full time locked RWD use. I tried with my 84 4wd sedan when I had a front axle break. It BARELY worked..light throttle limping on flat ground........and I could tell that if I had driven any further than just "home" that day.....it would have killed the clutch pack quickly.
  20. Group of 4 relays behind dash left of steering wheel. Blower relay will have a large, heavy gauge.....Green/White wire......Don't remember the connector color but it's the one of those 4 with the G/W wire.
  21. This isn't true for new gens. They ALL install from inside the retainer Old 3spd automatic Loyales/GLs/BRats/etc......they install from outside just pry out old push in new. But again......all 4eat atuomatics, and all 5spds.......they install from inside the cup.....And yes....It's fine to mark, remove, and reinstall to the same place the cup for seal replacement. 1 side at a time.
  22. I personally wouldn't run a welded diff on a street car at all. I run one in my wheeler, but I pull one or both rear axles for road travel. And that is not really an easy option on EJ cars espescially newer with" female" diff type. You could though mount a second E-brake handle, and seperate the cables run one to each handle it's mechanical manual traction control!!!
  23. Yeah.....87 FI is a pain..... the disty has different connector than all other years. And the Pins at the ECU for Disty Ref. and Pulse voltages are switched from all the later years. You can use the 88+ optical disty's in an 87 by switching the pulse and Ref. wires at the disty. Easy to do cause of course the connector needs spliced in so just reverse the GW and R wires. You can use an 88+ ECU and 88+ disty toghether in an 87 car without switching any wires around but the connector on the harness still needs swapped.
  24. You can use an 86 sedan pedal assembly...... You will need a matching clutch cable and throttle cable. You can also use the 5spd but you will need to use the matching 3.7 rear diff. Can use the 5spd driveline but will need to fashion a carrier bearing mount, and either make hybrid 25 spline axles or swap the stub in the trans out for 23 spine ones. Shifter and 4wd linkage custom made or Jerry's kit.
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