Gloyale

You don't need to swap injectors. Use the entire 2.2 manifold if it's 95-98.....If it's an 90-94 manifold.....you will need to swap the wiring, but hte injectors and fuel rails stay with the manifold. Cometic claims to have a correct gasket for this..... But when you look at what they send you (which I have 1st hand)......you will see the holes DO NOT match the 2.2 heads. The upper ports are almost entirely blocked by the gasket and the lower hole in the 2.2 heads that supplies coolant between the exhaust valves is completely blocked. It still seems to me drilling out a 2.5 gasket would be better.

Guys..... The black white wire to the coil is the 12v+ supply. The yellow wire is the Tach signal. If you are grounding the Black white wire that is a problem.

Nah.... that would throw off the toqrue values. Maybe should have used washers though......hmmmm.......the Mud won't care. Wait....I just looked...I did use washers. Hmmm....

make sure to use head bolts for a 2.2 or a SOHC 2.5 the DOHC bolts will be too short.

If the welds at the bottom were to give the fin would wedge into the area inside the shock mount on the arm.....and stop the spring from traveling all the way back to the bottom again. It also was a handy piece of scrap.

Sounds like MAF or an unmetered air leak affecting the MAF Cold weather can make rubber hoses brittle. Check the intake boot, all PCV hoses and all vac hoses for leaks/loose fitting.

So.....We had a week of deep snow here on the valley floor. And no plows. Not a problem for me at all. Mostly. I did have a problem when I crossed a set of railroad tracks going pretty fast........the road had 6" of snow on it....the tracks had been cleared and had none.... It was like dropping into a 6" deep ditch, and then blasting back up out of it at 30+ mph.......My brand new Struts/shocks were not happy. Espescially the rear right one......the spring perch blew off the bottom and the car was riding about 4" low on the side. Here is the repair Works great....I may use this method to make some long travel coilovers for my EA81 wheeler!!!

After much consulting with machinist, seaching for extra long thread repair install kits, pricing options ect........I've concluded I can build another shortblock for less than repairing this one properly. That is what I will do to have another actually grade A rebuild in my Daily Driver 86 GL AWD. So......This is an experiment. Not recommending this as a FIX.......just something I'm trying as a way of salvaging this engine. I'll be using it as a weekend wheeler mudfest motor. So if it blows up.....well....it's already damn near junk. Brand new rings, bearings, and seals......but because of half the threads missing in the center holes......I can't really trust it in my DD. Heres the "fix" Purchased a 36" long piece of M11 x1.25 b9 threaded rod.(the b9 is higher grade.....not that hard though) Cut 4, 9" long studs. And installed them as far into the blcok as I could to grab the remaining threads in the lower 2/3 of the holes. Some copper spray on a set of barely used HGs (engine tossed a rod 3k after headgaskets...check your oil) I know, I know.....reusing headgaskets....copper spray......It's horrible....I know.......look away.... And here's the lump all assembled and ready to be tossed into the rig......or out the back as an anchor.......we will see. I do love that I can lift it into the car by myself. And as of now it's actually in the wheeler......drove it home last night and it's got lots of power.....no signs of any headgasket issues. We will see how well this holds up. MUDFEST!!!

+1 to all this except that Legacy and Impreza (not WRX) are the same width. WRX sedans are wider by about 1-1/2"

I've done it several times. Mostly on D/Rs we put 25 spline stubs in to work in Legacies and Foresters. But it will work the other way round too. However....I'm not sure if the 4spd stubs will fit. IIRC.....both ends of those are 23..........BEsides.....splitting 4spds is really hard and requires a special long, slender walled, 32mm? socket. Super PITA .I think you will need a set from a 5spd. They are 23 at the outer, but 25 at the inner were they go into the diff. So they will go right in just gotta undo the clips inside the spiders.

Briliant!!! I've got lots of blown fuses I can put in. I could sell them on Ebay as an "ABS disarming system"

Yeah....at this point I'm gonna say it's gotta be the ECU. That's what the FSM flow chart would lead to with all the wiring being tested. WAIT! Did you test for any continuity BETWEEN each wire and the others.....and maybe check to ground too. There should be none.

Wheel base is 97" Not sure about track width.

Front seals don't drip onto the exhaust directly.......but wind from driving blows it back along the engine, onto the crossmember, and from there it funnels down and onto the exhaust. Any oil leak anywhere on a Subaru will eventually lead to the smoking at stops the OP speaks of.

Things on a subaru that leak: Crank seal Cam Seals Valve Cover Gaskets Oil Pan Rear seperator plate. So, you've done the oil pan....hopefully it was done well and not leaking...... I would recommend getting the first 3 replaced with a new timing belt and water pump soon. It's a 2.5 so you want to make sure the T-belt doesn't break. Then if there is still a lot of leaks and oil smell/smoke.......you will need to have the engine removed to service the seprator plate......But stopping all the other leaks may fix 95% of the smoke.....so I'd do all that first and then decide on the seperator plate. Of course.....you might save some labor money having all that done at once....pull the engine, reseal the seperator, and do the T-belt and seals on the rest of engine and drop it back in.

Those are the ones you want......Look closely and they should have a stripe......One Yellow/blue, and one Yellow/ Violet........ Matching the 2 yellow wires at the ignitor. These are the trigger pulse wires that signal the transitor to fire the coil. That's perfect.....that almost assuredly means the break is on one of the yellow wires between the ECU and Ignitor mentioned above......If you test those wires and they are good..... Then it's a problem with the ECU itself.

Yeah......Espescially with my lifted Wheeler......I start slowly and gently from a stop......I don't give it full throttle dropping into second......And I never give it full throttle during a full lock turn like in a parking lot or turning out into the road from a parking lot. Also....If you are running an "over stock" lift i.e. just strut tops or more strut top lift than subframe......It's a good idea to unclip the small end of the inner CV boot.....and slide the boot up the shaft, and reclip so it is not stretched so far all the time. Ripped boots kill axles before they're time.

They could not "PROVE" that you removed it. It could have been removed by a service dept., a stereo installer, the previous owner, or popped out in the accident. They could not "PROVE" it was your fault......and they wouldn't bother spending money trying to prove it.....if they are that hard up to deny your claim they'll find an easier reason to do it. If your ABS is working you won't need to slip it into neutral to "keep the engine from pushing the car".... Bottom line ABS makes stopping in the snow or mud more difficult, and longer. Do what you want but I preffer to be safe as I can........Which in the case of braking in snow is to have ABS fuse pulled, and leave the car engaged in a gear so you have some stabilty to the drivetrain motion, and some input potential if it's needed to correct in a slide. But like I said.......Do what you want......Just stay away from me on the road in the snow.

I ordered a set too. And sadly.....the left side one had the tabs on the wrong side.... I returned it and got another that showed up and was the same. I modified it to make it work. And with the lift I don't use the brake line brackets anyhow.....Well, I zip tie to them so it's all good. I was going to write a letter to them telling them they got there jig wrong. I think they are confused because EA81 struts are the same both sides..... They are doing that with EA82s, too, but they are suppoesed to be mirror image of eachother so they end up with tabs on the wrong side.

Diff lock is not DCCD.....but I digress........ He's in Australia.....I don't think they got the XT6......his would be from a 4cyl XT.....possibly turbo......but the rear mounts should be the same as the PT boxes...... I've got a '87-1/2 XT 4cyl turbo 5spd difflock trans here at my shop.....it's almost Identical to the PT boxes, .....same mounts.....same length.

Fronts break from lots of stop and go and tight turns in town......espescially if you put an EJ in the car. Rears break while 4-wheelin......espescially if you have a lift without any bumpstops or crossbracing. Personally I think the rears are the weak link.....I know how to drive to keep from breaking fronts in town. But when you are climbing a hill and all the power goes to the rear wheel thats stuffed up into the body with tons of weight.........POP!

you'd need the door wiring harnesses too.

The engine itself is an easy direct bolt in. As for wiring.......you can swap the throttle body and wiring from the EJ25 manifold onto the EJ22 manifold. You will need to swap pigtails for the injectors to match the old 2.2 ones.....and you'll need a plate to put between the Throttle Body and the Manifold that blocks the IAC port in the Throttle Body of the 2.5 You won't have warm up idle.....but a few seconds with your foot on the gas in the morn will deal with that.

Arrangeing them like that allows the front differential to take the difference.......and balance out against the pair of less worn ones in the rear....so the overall rotation of the 2 axles is roughly the same. If you have to run 2 pairs of different tires you would put them diagonal to eachother........one of each at each axle so the rotaion is the same front to back. It's not ideal.......wears the diffs.......but that's better than screwing the AWD.

I thought this thread was going to be about auto-dimming otherwise "night" awesome mirrors. Nightmares........I see now. yeah axles are a bitch when they do that.