Gloyale

Get the stupid double iridiums outta there and put a standard single iridium or better yet standard copper electrode in there. Gimmick plugs suck for these engines. The tiny iridium tip can't produce a large enough spark and get's worse as it burns back into the ceramic tip. JUNK. I don't see anything on here about the TPS. Gotta check it and it's adjustment. Main things tied to idle : IAC and associated hoses MAF or MAP TPS.....Must be properly adjusted VSS Neutral switch (it's not a safety switch, doesn't have anything to do with starter. It's only job is to tell ECU when needed to idle rather than fuel cut for engine braking in conjunction with VSS.)

I thin here it will depend on build date plenty of EA82 5spds here without the lo switch. no neutral switch even up to 87.

T-bone 84 GL 8 inch front/7 inch rear lift. Chopped and plated reinforced front Radius mounts. Cross braced rear. EA82 front axles, crossmember/ suspension w/ 1 inch extended, sleeved, radius rods. secondary front shocks (ea81 rears Lightweight subframe connecting front and rear lifts, also serves as carrier bearing mount for 5 spd driveline. Cross braced rear suspension blocks. Long travel (14") rear shocks with wheel well tower modification/punch up. Armored sump, rear diff and gas tank. Dual E-brakes. Welded rear. Snorkel. Forester fenders w/recycled quad fender mudflaps. 93 ported EJ22 w/ OBD 1 manifold/harness. Hacked IAC idle control. Hacked cooling fan control. 5-Spd, 3.9 D/R 4wd trans. 31x10.50 Wintercat studded snows. IMG_2879 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

look at the area of the engines bellhousing that the starter bolts to. If it has ridges concentric to the starter bulge, it is a closed deck factory turbo 2.2 block. If it has smooth, rounded bulge, it is a standard N/A open deck block and who knows what for pistons inside. My guess is it's an N/A block and heads, as the valve cover only has a single breather line, not 2 lines, like the turbo models.

That means you took the Knuckle off the car. And removed the CV axle. Unnecessary.

We did drop the pan, replace the pickup tube o-ring, and R+R'r the oil cooler. And we didn't find anything of consequence in the oil pan either. About a table spoon of sludge, but no chunks, and nothing clogging the pickup screen. We also replaced the Banjo bolt/screen with a brand new one. Although that was mostly just to satisfty Subaru for warranty. The old one had no clog, and was perfectly clear and flowing. I also pulled the timing covers and verified timing CAM timing. Pulled pass side AVCS solenoid and cleaned, but found no debris or clog. Reinstalled with new O-ring.

Have you rotated the engine by hand to make sure it's not seized or Hydro locked?

oil on top of engine is likely the oil pressure switch. $20, 20 min fix. Screw that dealer. If it's not the OP switch, it may be the power steering pump. Other common leaks on that car. Oil cooler O-rings (4 of them in this model, less than 1 hour fix) Turbo oil return (about 2 hour fix) Valve covers, Cam seals (do these with timing belt service to save cost) Rear separator (do this with clutch service) I could fix all those leaks and do HGs and T-belt for "several thousand" dollars, lol

turning the crank backwards can blow out the one way valve in the oil fitler, and possibly damage the bypass valve in the oil pump. It is OK to rotate the Cams either direction. I use a box end wrench on the drivers side cams to have leverage to hold them in place if they are trying to spin from the spring force.

some had the LO switch mounted under the shift boot inside the car. It's a little microswitch mounted on the left side of the assembly. Check under there for wire shorted or switch stuck.

Any EJ pump will physically fit the engine. What was the issue? Did you order a pump for a tubro model with outlet to teh front instead of bottom? or did you get a pump with an secondary oil cooler hose inlets? A kit for a 95 2.2 should have just been a standard EJ water pump.

You put the arm onto the wiper motor assembly 180 out.

yeah, so like I said. Using the three jaw puller DID NOT help to remove the bearing from the knuckle. It just freed the axle from the bearing, which isn't he OPs problem here. You ended up unbolting a bunch of other unnecessary stuff. And neglected to mention that in your post. Kinduv a good way to screw someone up if he tried to follow your advice as originally posted and rammed his axle into his diff, crunching the cages and the spider thrust washers. 3 Jaw puller is not going to remove the stuck bearing housing from the Knuckle.

Update: Subaru Genuine OE reman turbo installed. Car running perfectly. No smoke. Quick, smooth spool. Pulls hard to redline with no issues from turbo. Now, this is just after a few short miles of testing. Need to get tags on it to take it for a longer highway drive. Don't buy cheap turbo parts. Just go OE from the start.

This pushes the axle out of the hub, but doesn't help extracting the bearing housing from the knuckle. And if it did, it would have had to transfer all the pushing force through both CV's against the spider retainer in the diff. Via pushing the axle through the hub as far as it could go. Once both CV joints were compressed to their limits, then the force would all be against the diff internals. NO bueno.

Check the engine harness connectors, and the ground wire on the intake manifold. All ECU and IG and Fuel relays ground through that bolt to the intake.

there is no pan, but there is a Drain plug. Typically Manual transmissions don't have "pans" Even brand new Subarus with manual trans would be the same way. Run from that lube shop. Morons.

Way too much work. Just slap a carb manifold on it and a Weber if you have too. Although I've had good luck resealing and clearing out the clogged passagess on the hitachis, they work fine. Just no point in swapping unless you also have a High pressure Fuel pump, MAF, air intake and Air cleaner, and a harness. You would need to strip a full harness from a donor SPFI car.

front or rear?

yeah that's high. the regulator is not doing it's job, or the pump is too high pressure and the reg can't handle dropping that much.

use a press. Drive out old U-joint. Use a brake cylinder hone to clear out the remnants of the u-joint stakes. Install new U-joint with internal retainer clips.

does't matter which direction the trans fluid flows. Just hook up one hose end to each port on the radiator.

pop the windshield out and reinstall. Might reset the "bow" of the glass.

90-94 with same trans only.

No socket. That pushes the handle further back towards the firewall. Box end of a combo wrench to break loose. Then gear wrench (ratcheting wrench) for the rest.