Gloyale

They could never prove that YOU removed the fuse. If they ever bothered to look which they won't unless you say "hey.....I removed the ABS fuse!!!!" And if you avoid the accident.....it's an irrelavent worry.... This is the worst advise for slippery condition driving ever. Disengageing the wheels from the driveline, and each other is the fastest way to ensure that the wheels lock up. You want to be in gear. You have no way to input in neutral except to brake more........if you start to slide sideways you need to be able to keep the wheels rolling forward toghether in a corrdinated way.....not independent of eachother or locked.....both of which would be bad...

Well....I can't remember were I found it...It's a Zipped pdf of the entire FSM.

Put the new one on the front......it'll be fine.

The main power and wiring bundle is up there under that drivers side fender. It could be that the wiring harness was damaged and some wires that shouldn't touch shold be. It's also possible someone installed fuses incorrectly or a relay incorrectly in the main fuse box........I can't think of any way to make a "fuse" that doesn't work, then "work" off the car....then put it back in and it works? sounds fishy

Correct hookup would be the to hook the yellow EJ wire to the 12v Ig. switch yellow wire that triggers the EJ harness on....but not needed to be that way. Simplest would be to hook the White from plug to the main White charging wire.......That's how it is in the EJ car. Redundant... Then hook the Yellow EJ wire to the Blk/white EA wire.....which should be switched power same as coil + wire... Black/White EJ wire is correct as is to the White/red EA wire. Make sure your Fusible links are intact as well......could be as simple as a fried link.

It's not nessecary. That one is generic and probably won't work on a EJ25d This tool however is very useful.....http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Phase-Sprocket-Tool-C23-504/dp/B009ZDIMC6/ref=pd_sim_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1AY0NQP77J15FWEDG8YM But only really if you are removing the pulleys to replace seals....if just changing belts.....You don't really need either.

Well, that diagrahm above has the pin numbers flipped from what subaru calls them.......top is the bottom and order reversed. You need a Purple(Violet)/green wire from the ECU pin d16 to be connected to pin 10 (7 in your diagrahm) Then you need ground to pins 12 and 13 (4 and 5 in your diagrahm) And of course 12v to pin 1 (16 in your diagrahm)

Automatics are longer. But any 5spd that came in an EA car......be it PT or FT4wd, S/R or D/R are the same length. The EJ AWD 5spds are longer by about 2"

This is very unsafe. You don't want the fuel pump to run when engine is not (like a crash or rollover) Does the Tach needle jump while cranking? If not then the FPCU won't see a pulse won't power pump. Also did you get your replacement FPCU from another late (83+) EA81 car? The early ones, and the EA82 ones are different

Disconnect ECU Disconnect Ignitor Disconnect Coil NOW.......measure continuity on Blue wire and Red/Green wire end to end from Ignitor to Coil. Both should be near zero resistance. If not there is a break in the wire. If that's all good then measure on Yellow/Blue wire and Yellow/Violet back to pins 14 and 13 at the ECU respectively. They'll be the same color at the ECU so it should be easy to find them. They're on the top row, 3 and 4th pins in from the end. Should again be nearly zero. If you get any other reading there is a break or short in the wire.

Depends on wether you want the extra clearance. Definately get the OB or Forrester rear trailing arm brackets. And If you do run the OB spacers on the front....you'll need the A-arm pivots, trans mount spacers, and the steering coupler from the OB as well. (96-99)

Replace the o-ring on the PCV drain back tube at the back of the pan. If that doesn't seal you'll suck oily vapors into the PCV constantly and smoke like a pig and use lots of oil. "The RIght Stuff" FTW. Much better adhesion than regular black or grey RTV.

Check the Crank and Cam sensors on the front of engine for damage. I would suspect if the timing cover is broken it's very possible the belt broke or skipped.....and 97 is interference engine so I'd actually remvoe the covers and check that the belt is in time before cranking it over any more. Don't want to bend the valves. There should not be any type of fuel cutoff. If anything just disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset. The no start is probably from the sensors or belt.

2001 Subaru ECU just uses one wire for data to the OBD II port. Purple I believe. One red wire for 12v+ and 2 Black/reds for ground. So yeah,,, it could be 3 or 4 wires (2 grounds...redundant) The extra wires in the connector are for line end checking and ABS Data.

Rack will bolt in but you'll need the steering joint from the Manual rack car......or extend the power one.

It is. Bolt the control arm back up to the body. Hammer it out. Remove the lockring once it's out, and use the butt of the 36mm socket to hammer out the outer race. Now.....reinstall is harder if you can't seperate the stub from the axle....but if you can then this is the next step. Take the new bearing, packed with grease....and hammer the stub though the whole thing......both halves and the outer race.....so you've got a whole bearing unit with the stub though it. Now use the old outer race as a driver and install the whole shebang into the arm. Install the lockring behind it. The reason for doing it this way is so the "pressing" or "hammer" action doesn't happen against the outer races and rollers.....but against the inner spacer collars. If you install the outer race, then slip in the bearings and pull the stub through it loads up the rollers on the inward side of the bearing pretty hard. I never need to use a press and I never remove the arm from the K-bar.

Should be the same length if they both came from EA vehichles. (PT4wd and FT4wd w/Diff lock) If the AWD box is from an EJ car (AWD not difflock) then no, the AWD is longer by a few inches. Either way the FT4wd box will need 23 spine stubs from the PT to work with Bruby axles.

Yeah....mine runs fine without that stuff. Throws codes for Fuel temp/pressure and a "Mnfctr. Cntrld. Emmisions" whatever that means. Just a though......Did you plug in the "test" connectors? Green plug from ECU? it should be disconnected or else the ECU will be in a constant test cycle. That could be the flashing light.

Then you would be able to grab the top of the strut and pull it apart further. And the spring would flop around loose between the seats.

That's what I'm saying......USDM 4.11 diffs (the dozens that I've seen) do not have the beveled edge that the 3.9 Hi/lo trans do. This means that it will not clear the 1.59 Lo range set without grinding a bevel into the edge. I've done it for a hyrid box......it can be done but its a crude operation and not ideal. I wouldn't spend $1000 on parts just to have to cobble the rest toghether caveman style. That said I would love to hear form someone who actually bought this kit, and how well it went toghether and work. If it worked to convert old FT4wd difflock boxes........that would be worth it.

I don't think you are a liar at all. I just thought something was being overlooked or missed. I do apologize if this thread has caused ill will of any kind. Sometimes I over-obsess about things. I've been thinking about it and there is one possible way that those could be a matched set of struts......if the internals of the bad one are hammered to the point that washers and seals are loose inside......that could prevent the strut rod from extending all the way out. I still say it can't be JUST from a "compressed" worn out spring.......like I said unless it's flopping loose it's pushing the strut rod out....but if the strut is damaged it could be "stuck" in a not quite fully extended position. I certainly wouldn't dream of calling a long time board friend and neighbor (used to live in WI when I joined the board) A liar. Never.....I know you aren't on here to start flame wars with ricers lol. Whatever is going on, I am happy your suby is better now. I'm sorry to cause frustration I just kinda get fixated. Gotta watch Judge Wappner.........Definately time for Judge Wappner.

So you put new pads on un-turned old scored up rotors? That's your noise.

Problem is I don't think US market ring gears had the beveled edge to clear the lo range set. At least not a 4.11 or 4.44 with a 1.59 lo set. That "kit" (used parts from AUS cleaned up) probably has the wimpy 1.19 or maybe the 1.44 lo range and does not include the vacuum actuator for it (might be able to use P/T EA unit). And then you are left with AWD not locked 4wd. Not knockin that route entirely......just not sure it's really worth the money and certainly not if it's really gonna be a serious wheeler. I'd like to see someone actually assemble one of these "kits" For $1000 I think you can get a Whole D/R box shipped over.

Solid or hydro lifter engine? Could be lifters full of sludge not pumping up.

Doesn't matter.....they can flow either way though the radiator. IIRC the top one is from trans, the bottom is return.