Gloyale

Cracks between the valves is OK Turbos will crack in the exhaust port. And yes they will be cracked. EJ it.

Those are not the same part. Both of them are extendended to their full length......there is no weight on them.. Your thinking of the equation the opposite way. The only "compression" comes from being trapped between 2 ends of the strut. One of the struts has a longer rod, so it can extend further creating a larger space between top/bottom for the spring to live in. The other one, the space is not shorter because of the spring being compressed, the shorter one the spring looks more compressed becasue it's squeezed into a shorter space. Those are NOT the same struts.....one or both of them is not original to the car. Want to prove it? pull the springs off and compare the extended lengths of each one from top of rod to bottom of strut. You didn't notice it on the car because the length from knuckle to spring is close, and when the car sits on the springs, it settled to nearly the same place. What you would have noticed is that when you jack the car up, the one side would drop further down than the other. I think what you have is one Strut for a Legacy sedan, and another for a Wagon. Same length from spring perch to knuckle, but the Sedan one has longer inner rod, more travel by about 3/4"

Look for oil leaking into the spark plug wells.

Yes pull covers but you can simply align all the marks on Cam/Crank to check.....no need to count teeth. Start with pulling the outer cover on the drivers, and the rubber plug on the passenger (use a dental mirror to see in there) and check if both Cams are timed toghether. If they aren't.......bingo. If they are.....then pop the 22 mm bolt out of the crank pulley and see if the keyway is directly down. If not......bingo. Do not try to start it again until you verify the timing belt is correct/intact.

Turn off the defrost setting. Fans run whenever the HVAC is on Defrost or A/C

Also if the pump pushed gas out the injectors into the cylinder that means that at least one injector is leaking. And the other thing that deosn't make sense. IF the battery was backwards, how would the fuel pump run the correct way and pump gas? Or was it running in reverse and pushing gas back into the tank sucking from the return? Could have filled the charcoal canister and leaked gas from there?

Many of those lines are air bleeds for the carb. They are larger than the vac lines. maybe pinky size (10mm) Attached to a valve with 3 bleed hoses, and a vac line and one cap. It's on the passenger side in front and a bit below the air cleaner over the thermostat housing..These stock hoses have small "orifice" pellets in them that restrict each tube a certain amount. You need these. If you cap them you'll run rich.....If you open them completely you can run lean or just stall from lack of proper vacuum through the emulsion tubes. If the car runs with the setup as is......Like none of the Air bleed lines are broken and the car runs well......Then leave it alone. Start taking off lines and it affects mixture upon throttle up, and if you don't get the restriction of the air bleeds correct you'll have mixture issues throughout range and idle issues at idle. A few of the lines are actually vacuum lines. Only hoses I would get rid of are the large one that goes off the side of the EGR.....Plug that one and cap the Small vac line that goes over to the canister ont eh passenger side that big hose went to. If you want.....look up the Quarter trick for pluging the reed valves that come off the exhaust. Otherwise it really is best to leave the "Air control Valve" and all the hoses from it to the carb bleeds alone.

Replace the belts and the tensioner.

Swap the Throttle bodies too and this would be the way to use any 2.2 manifold. Otherwise you have to get a 2.2 intake from 95-98......and to have it throw no codes either way you will need an EGR manifold and heads or drill tap which on some can be done and others can't

Electric motors are in the B-pillar...not the kick panel. Control unit is on drivers side behind the plastic panel in the cargo area/quarter panel side. Ussually the problem with these is the "buckled" and "limit" switches. One of each in the buckle and another limit switch in the front part of the track. Subaru on;y published a diagarahm in the 88 FSM.

All Cali cars and all 2wds after 81 have the Feedback carb. Which is basically just a set of solenoids that open fully, or partially close the Primary and Secondary air bleeds. Not all ECU models have high altitude kits. Also, not all high altitude models had ECUs The high altitude sensor should be mounted on the drivers side front side of strut tower. Squarish box with a cone on one side and a hose in and out and in Cali model case a 2 wire connector.

I think there is a screw at each end under the rubber seal. The rest is clips just pry straight up carefully.

You can adjust the track position like Skishop said. There is also some "pads" attached to the top of the door sill. These can be adjusted in or out to put pressure on the glass inward, and keep it from wobbling when it's half way up/down. IIRC you have to take the trim lip of the door to get to them.

Those don't look like the same strut. Even with a weak spring........extended length while unloaded would be the same length. Looks like a Leggy and an outback or perhaps one 98-03 forester strut and one 04-08.

99 heads won't fit any of the older intake setups.....so you'd need the 99 2.2 harness ECU as well. Just get a 90-96 EJ22

Firing order is 1324 arranged like this when looking from front. 2--4 1--3 Set timing belts to the 3 hash marks....not the 0 tdc. Also, it wouldn't hurt to plug the large tube that comes off the side of the EGR vavle. That guy can be a nasty Vac leak.

Get your info from somewhere other than Ebay 85, 86 GLs and GL-10s have the same large headlights. 87+ look almost the same, but the adjuster screw is moved, grill mount moved a bit for the 87+ grill. The 2 small rectangular lights per side are on DL models.......of all years from 85-88 or 89 (whenever they stopped making DLs) This car is an 85. Built late in 84 as an 85 model. Get some FSMs and accurate info or don't screw with the thread. It really doesn't matter what flippin lights he has because we know he has the early MPFI system and knock unit so EA81, EA82, '85 ,'86 doesn't matter. We've identified the system. Bingo. Should be able to substitue a Carbie coil......long as it's Hitachi. IIRC they will have a "5" sticker on them. Can we focus on the spark issue?

I'm not aware of anyone who has wrecked the rear output going to a T-case. Running directly as RWD, yes....many have been munched..... But I don't think I've heard a report of someone with a T-case behind it haveing an issue. Not positive just I think it's O.K to run to a T-case becasue it then uses the T-case gears for reduction and output.

85 86 GL headlights are the same. Only difference between 85 and 86 is 3rd brake light and mirrors in the window corner , rather than on the side of the door (85 glass is unique) The headlight change you refer to happened in 87. This now completes the hi-jack this car is an 85

Yup and there are a couple 10mm under the oil pan and windage tray. One at on the side of the large coolant tube/chamber right behind the waterpump.

I've got about 10 in a drawer. Send me a PM (private message on here)

It probably does I've mounted lots of full size radios into Loyales with OE brackets. I just attach them a bit further back on the unit.....and let the face protrude about 1" out of the front of the dash. It doesn't interfere with shifting. IIRC you have to trim the edges of the Loyale console cover. I used a wrapping of electrical tape tight around the exposed silver part behind the radio faceplate. It's not gonna win any custom install shows but I think that's the point. Looks like it's supposed to be there.

Hi-jack Freeze plugs in head popped. Remove valve covers and replace plug. The engine is most likely fine unless you keep running it with water in the oil! Back to our thread about EA82t spark. to the OP......Have you tried goin back to a stock coil........Subies don't really like or benefit from aftermarket coils....

Wrong section Hard to say but could be the main shaft bearing. If it's not poping out of gear it's still okay for while. Once it starts popping out of gear......get a new trans or get yours serviced. (i replace bearings in them all the time.)

If BOTH are connected then it's in "clear" mode. Won't cycle fans and pump just flashes after it deems conditions to be "okay" to reset. Even if it's OBD II (95 automatics), it will still have the old fashioned "clear" mode. They didn't do away with the "read" black connector until 99 IIRC