Gloyale

Yeah, should be possible. You'll need to add switches to the clutch pedal and brake. And you'll need to hook up a wire to the VSS in the speedo head (all gen 2's should have them) All hook ups Clutch and brake switches looped (opens a switch breaks circuit when either pedal is pushed canceling cruise) Brake light swtich (seperate from loop.....cancels cruise when 12v from brake lights present, redundant) Tach VSS 12v+ (power on) Ground Everything else is wired to the unit already (actuator assembly) Might need an extra vac resevior if the kit doesn't have one.

Governor Gear apple cored. 37 dollars for replacement from subaru......they sometimes say not available but I know they got em still. Or get one from a junkyard. Or 5spd swap. I'd go AWD or S/R unless you are planning on wheeling it. Solid input shaft is stronger, less to go wrong.

I'll try to get pics....might start a new thread since this has now moved to a rear suspension thread lol

You can bypass it by Jumpering the swithed 12v(B/W) into the unit over to the pump power wire(Blue/black). This will run the pump with Key on......but will not provide shot off protection for a no-run situation like accident or fuel line burst. There are a few different FPCU's out there......you need one from the correct EA81 model(same engine/trans/carb)....(not the EA82 ones and not the feedback ECU/Carb ones) The pumps do not need anythign but regular 12v+ and a ground. The pulsing is just to trigger the coil of the FPCU closed to complete the circuit. If your pump isn't working or blowing fuses with straight power then something is wrong. Lots of people just wire the fuel pump to a switch. I've once seen a GM 3prong oil pressure switch installed and the power for the fuel pump run through it so FP only operates when there is oil pressure. Another good option.

If it's a 96 ECU......you need to Ground pin 81 to tell it to be M/T. Might need to add a wire....on MT cars there is a BLack/red wire that hooks to this pin and connects to the web of grounds in the harness. Pin 86 Blue/red wire (or Red/yellow on MT's) should connect to the starter solenoid signal wire. Pin 82 is the neutral switch wire....should be connected through the switch to ground when clutch is depressed. These 3 pins should not be connected to eachother in any way.

Shorter than EA82, but should be the same as any EA81. You have to remember that the inner joint is stretchy......so it's easy to see them as different lengths, but all Hatch, Brat, and EA81 wagon and Sedan front axles are interchangable.

Speed sensor is on the side of the front diff (passenger side of trans). That's most likely the problem.

Steel bolts into aluminum. They would rip the threads out before stretching. They are fine to reuse. Subaru does not say to replace. Only places they say that is suppliers trying to sell you bolts. Unless there is some defect like bad corrosion, or boogered threads, then just reuse them.

He will not need a 3.7 rear diff unless it's an 83 or older 3at. Trans tunnels are the same size. It's the 4eat they enlarged the tunnel for......in 87 on EA82's Rear crossmember for trans is easy to make out of flat steel. Reverse lights would need wires from the engine bay run inside to the auto Shifter. You'll need to run a vacuum line to the modulator. I don't think there is a kickdown switch on the throttle....I think it's all vacuum controlled.....but I am not sure. Certainly would drive fine without that.

Somethings wrong then. This shouldn't happen, the Neutral switch is supposed to connect that pin of the ECU to ground in neutral (same wire that grounds and lights the "N" light in the auto dash indicator) Is it possible you are using a 95 harness with a 96 computer? The connectors are the same, but the wiring color and location of pins are different.

I think that's actually 24. 2 long blinks.....4 short.

Nah......Charge lamp is always 10A. Nothing to do with Alt max output, just the bulb on the warning light circuit, and a few Ma to excite the alt. Amps are Amps in any hemisphere.

And what about the Neutral switch you installed? you mean a clutch switch. You really need the one for the Cruise control that is open Start there. Check the switch for continuity when depressed.....should be OPEN....no continuity. You need to mount the switch in the hole where it will be depressed when clutch is out. Then wire one side of the switch to ground.....wire the other end to the neutral switch wire....which should be Brown/yellow IIRC loooking for the pin chart now. This setup will Ground the wire telling ECU you're in "Nuetral" when the clutch is depressed. Hook the big Blue/red wire to the starter circuit....not to the Neutral switch.

He doesn't need to swap rear diffs if he get's a 3.9 AWD EJ 5spd. Opening trans and swapping in a set of 23 spine stubs will solve the axle issue. He will run off the shelf Brat axles after a one time modification. sourcing stubs will be cheaper than an EJ/EA adapter plate and redrilled flywheel.....even if he makes his own it will be. AWD driveline would need to be longer than the 4spd one, but shorter than the EA PT 5spds one. EJ shift linkage works with very little modification......easy without the 4wd lever.

Well......Not sure bout that one.....Forresters didn't start til '98.....and all of them had the Phase II trans......and how does that have anything to do with the ECU from the 96 you mention and 96 5spd???? If the ECU is a 95 legacy it will have a connector that matches 96 harness, but different pins completely.....you need an ECU that matches the harness. IS you're 5spd a dual range EA box? Do you have an adapter plate? IF no to either of these you DO have a nuetral switch in the trans. But this is side line.....see below This is your problem.. Your confusing the Nuetral switch circuit with the Starter lockout circuit. Which would explain frying the wire if you give it 12V during start up. Or if you are grounding the starter signal wire......IDK....not sure exccactly what you have done. Starter lockout circuit has nothing to do with ECU other than for the Signal to ECU upon start up. Neutral switch is completely differnent.......You are trying to fool the computer to see that the clutch switch being depressed is like shifting into Nuetral (or P) with the automatic. Understand??? Nuetral switch should be a Brown/yellow wire if IIRC. IIRC Starter signal wire will be Red/yellow if Harness and ECU are from auto car, Blue/red from manual. Starter signal wire gets very large gauge shortly after the ECU plug.

THey might. I've heard a hybrid axle can be made.....but there were a couple different size EA81 shafts and most of the aftermarkets are different. I think it's better to modify the trans.....maybe put new seals in it while your at it....then use stock axles. Crossmember you can do without a welder. Just need a the center piece from a legacy/imp/forrester mount set up and then drill holes int he stock crossmember and use a flat bar piece across the rear part.

No....Charge fuse is always a 10Amp All the others it won't matter they'll just blow easier

Possibly a "chirping" kind of squeal? Does it do it in Neutral sitting still? COuld be a chirping Throw Out Bearing.

Almost every connector on the turbo engine is the same as the Non turbo ones.

Not great but not that bad if you surface the heads and use correct headgaskets.

That isn't nessecary. Older ECU's you can tell them to be either by grounding a pin. Newer ones simply wire it to think it's in gear with the clutch out, i.e "not in nuetral or park" and with clutch in to think it's in park. If the OP will post year and model of ECU....I can tell him excactly which pins to tap and ground If you also have a correct VSS installed it should work fine.

It needs to be shoved about 1 inch back from where it sits to meet the mounts I've made, but mostly that's the way it will sit. The front wheels are intentionally waaay forward of stock. Front fenders will get trimmed out and flared for clearance Baja style. The rear wheel wells will get trimmed out for the wheel clearance. But not much....remember the rear wheels travel backwards in their arc when compressed. The body behind the rear wheel will get chopped out for departure angle.

You can also swap all the intake wiring, and thorttle body from the DOHC to the SOHC intake. (requires splicing the injector pigtails) Swap Cam/crank sprockets and sensors too. Depending on Intake type may need a block off plate between TB and intake to cover IAC port on the SOHC manifold. You won't have an IAC......but it will run. I've done it running 2005 SOHC 2.5 in a 90 Legacy using stock 90 ECU and wiring. But FWIW, in this case putting a set of DOHC heads on that SOHC engine woudl be simpler option.

Both of those should be later style (optical disty, Hotwire Maf, controlled wastegate...etc.) 87 XT kept the old system til the 87-1/2 model change over w/ spider intake. But an RX and a GL from that era should be the same system all the same except as mentioned the connectors could vary as 87 was wonky year. Ref. and Sig wires of disty swapped in 88+ models. Any chance the RX has had the engine swapped? Someone could have swapped the older longblock and turbo into the RX which would explain the direct wastegagte.

Knick out is for power mirror swtich. You can get shallow decks....at least some. As for width and ashtray.......mount raido in the lower section where the cubby is now. This is how mine is.....a bit hacked but works well. My car has the Pwr. Mirrors so I relocate the switch up to the old radio spot. Or..........If you have the stock radio still, you can wire in a headphone connector into the OE tape deck connector on the back. There is a write up somewhere on here. Allows you to use original radio with an iPod or portable CD player.