Gloyale

Knock the roll pin out should be First and last thing done. If you don''t knock it out first.....you can hyper extend the axle once you start pulling the knuckle outward. Fine for the old one, but you don't want to install the pin until the knuckle is set in place or you'll risk pulling the new one apart. Also, I suggest removing the inner arm pivot, and the sway bar mount rather than messing with the ball joint or strut top pinch bolts. The more times those pry open and closed, the more likely it is they could crack later. (seen it twice on the balljoint) Plus it's just easier. For pulling the axle though the bearings, I suggest removing the rotor and the outer wheel seal. Then thread the nut onto the axle, and use the claws of 2 hammers as prybars to pull the axle through. In my experience, "hammering" them in from behind can be hard or not work, and can ruin the CV boot. The pry/pull method is more similar to what subaru outlines in the manual. Alternately, you can weld an old axle nut to a slide hammer and use that to pull the axle through....that is the factory prescribed method.

It's what I do. Seems to work great.

Easy. no adapters needed. Will require a custom rear trans crossmember/support......and a custom length driveline. (longer than the 4spd) most EJ 5spds are 4.11 or 3.9 ratio.......either of which compatible, direct bolt in rear diffs can be found in %90 of GL's (non-turbo) and 90-94 Legacies (3.9 or 4.11) 4.44 r&p can be installed into an older diff to get the male stubs. Biggest issue is front axles. I would highly advise opening the whatever trans you are installing and adding a set of 23 spline stubs. otherwise, you will need custom axles using 25 spline inner cups.

Doesn't work well with axles either. More for RWD buggy/trucks

No Neutral switch in Brat Hmmm......No something is wrong. There is no issue wiring an auto to a manual. Let's get some basic info. Year and model of Harness? (this will help us confirm you are using the correct pin) Model of trans installed? If you swapped a 5spd you might have a Nuetral switch in the trans already. And where did you hook up "a switch from the junkyard" becasue there is nowhere to "add" a nuetral switch. Did you get a Clutch switch? and if so did you get the one for the Cruise control (Normally closed) or one for the starter lockout (normally open)?

This is true for Manual trans Let's clarify....My remarks in this thread were about automatics....I corrected my post to reflect that. All automatics still have the stud. Although, to remove the 8 bolt automatic trannies, you must first remove the starter, there is a bolt that is covered by the ear.

Use the Vent line as the return line. Carb return line is too small. Switch them at the tank.

Sounds resonable. But the bottom holes would need to be fit TIGHTLY. The holes in the trans are oversize, so you can't rely on those bolt holes to locate the plate to the trans. I suppose if you made your first holes the bottom ones and made them tight fit to the studs it could work OK.

Increase the length of the intake tube (between MAF and TB) Don't know why this helps.....but it does. Not really any MORE power, just makes it available at low RPMs smoothly without stalling. My intake boot on my wheeler is like 3" feet long, and the EJ18 it feeds makes good power and resist stalling out at low RPM's ~1200 or so for crawling.

Not yet for the 2011 I don't have a test vehichle to make measurements from......also, the new way the front arms are mounted to the body makes the front end lift alot more complicated....I''d need a rig to work with for a while. Best I could tell the OP is to add Outback struts/springs...should be simple bolt in.

Request Granted. Front view.......narrow offset Nissan rims used for rolling it under the body between the logs. lol.. The wheels for it will be wider offset and not look so stupid. Camber should settle out once the weight of the engine is in and it's on 33's It fit perfect on the mounts I made. Still needs alot of work Engine, Trans, Drivelines, Brakes.....and that's after I actually fully finish attaching the body. But this thing WILL be moshin' the pit by April. Game back on.

$150 hardware included

Why does it matter what rear end you run if you are never gonna be on dirt? You won't ever be using the rear end. Maybe for snow? But with the car sitting that low I don't think you're gonna be drivin in snow much. Might as well leave it open. LSD or Locked isn't gonna make any differnence in how it drives day to day. (well, locked would be terrible for a road car/DD)

No I think you missed his point. Fusible links are cheap and easy to replace.....and even update to newer better type SlowBlow Fuses.... Doing that might help save you money replacing electrical units later. Checking on the condition of fusible links is definately the first thing to check

Where in Oregon? I've got a real good one here in Corvallis.

85-89 DL or GL, wagon, sedan, 3 door 90-94 Loyale all. Any regular XT (4cyl, not XT6, not GL-10) XT6 is 6cyl version and completely different hub/knuckle attachment and most all were air suspension anyhow.

7 ohms Empty 32.5 Ohms Half tank 95 Ohms Full tank

that's the evap fuel system vent/purge solenoid

Connector B56, pin 16 at the ECU It's the bottom corner pin of the second smallest connector. Black/Blue stripe wire. You could also grab that wire at the Cruise Control unit too.

On a frame vehichle.....the body is just that.....a body.....a place for someone to sit. If it's loosey goosey on flexible mounts, fine.....in fact that's what you want since truck frames flex. With a Unibody.....the body is the frame. If you mount the suspension points with flexible material.....your suspension parts are wobblin' around and would probably just break the pucks eventually and make you wreck the car. Not to mention, Hockey pucks are too large to fit on the landings where some of the suspension to unibody mounts. Also, you'd need lots of very long metric bolts to thread though the puck into the unibody. Use blocks of steel. Bolt the top of the block to the unibody with the short factory bolts.....then you can bolt the suspension to the bottom of the blocks using short, standard hardware which is much cheaper. Or buy our kit.........HighGuysLifts.com

Hydrogen and Oxygen gasses separated through electrolysis. The problem has always been creating enough of it to actually be worth using. If you want to produce alot of it, you need alot of electricity, which bogs down the ALT, so claims to improved effieciency are inconsistant. It's always variable depending on the type of system you run. You can produce it at home, and then capture and transfer it.....but hydrogen is hard to contain, and very explosive too...... I have yet to see an HHO system with any real world practical returns.

You're almost ready to pick up a few bags of candy and start trolling school parking lots. J/K......it looks like it's coming along into what you want.

Non-turbo 2wd flywheels have a 1" diameter smaller contact face

Coolant hose will not stand up to Crankcase gasses. Napa and carquest can order it for sure. My local Knecht's stocks it. It is made, should be able to find it. Not excactly a rare item.....it's just EVAP hose.

Check for carbon deposits in the throttle vac ports that supply the transducer (ufo looking thing above the actual valve.)