Gloyale

Yeah, you need to get axles with 23 spline inner cups. FWD 5spds up to 94 uses 23 spline axles. Those axles also have a very small and weak outer CV........They are weaker than the newer models.....and depending on how they are rebuild they can make alot of clcking right out of the box.

25/32nds evap rated hose from any NAPA/CarQuest/O'riellys....etc.....

Sounds like a crappy aftermarket axle. Click clackin outtaa the box Probably spitting out grease from the boot clamps

Use dremel to cut slot in the lock cylinder bolts (they look like rivet heads) Cut a thin slot in them, and then use a flathead screwdriver to remove them. Now take the mechanism to the locksmith. And If you would like to eliminate the steering lock now would be the time to grind off the pawl that engages the column.

Alternator goin out most likely.

The MPFI heads crack in the exhaust ports. The heads are the downfall of these engines. And 175eya is right, it's a turbo motor still so you'd need to change pistons, and exhaust manifold. Better off using an NA engine w/ a carb(s) Or just EJ it.

Pull valve covers and check for blown freeze plugs. Your engine oil is full of water.

Th That's the worst description of how to do it I've ever read. The plates I sell are perfectly well fitted......and include the holes for the "little locator things" that "some have and some don't". Otherwise known as locator dowels..Which all engines have, and you need all 4(2EA, 2EJ) for a correct alignment on these adapters.......which the writer of that page obviously didn't know.....pretty common knowledge, scary....I wonder how long it took for his input shaft beairngs to wear out? PM me for prices on HighGuys adapter plates. Steel, precicision made, hardware included.....WITH dowel holes (absent on some others plates) Since I paid alot to have my plates programmed in Autocad and the initial run, and I sell said product....I do not wish to give away the file.

I bought one from the dealer last year. Not sure why they wouldn't be available.

I've never known EA82 ECUs to beep. You mean it's audibly making a beeping noise??? some turbo models had a RPM alarm, and some XT had speed alarms.......but those were contained in the dash display....not the ECU. Are you sure it's not coming from an alarm? Security lockout? stereo? I know Sony stereos beep when you shut off car....that's why I hate them....one reason. Anyhow....are you familiar with how to retrieve codes from these ECUs?

Do you have teh cable adjusted too tight? The cable should have a bit of looseness when foot off clutch. Should be able to wiggle the Clutch fork abit. If the cable is tight all the time, it will keep the PP from returning all the way.

The gear is on;y about $30 bucks ordered new from subaru. Knocks on with a roll pin. Simple fix.

to be clear each side shares a ground. Easiest is to just run new wires to the front door speakers connectors in the kick panels, and leave the stock wiring for the rears.

4th in the 4 spd is nearly the same as 5th in the 5spd. But the 5spd is a bit taller. .780:1 5spd vs. .885:1 for the 4spd. But the jump from 3rd to 4th is very large......like going from 3rd to 5th w/ the 5spd. 4spd: 3rd = 1.26:1 4th = .885:1 5spd 3rd = 1.366:1 4th = .972:1 5th = .780:1 This is not an accurate way to measure. You don't know how much gas is in there at "empty" before you put 20 in to get to "half a tank" Even an accurate gas gauge can be off by a few gallons.....espescially near the middle......"halfway" could be 6 gallons, could be 8. I'm sure your getting good mileage, but I'm guessing that these #s are padded a bit by the variations of partial fills, unknown excact mileage, and only based on 1 or 2 half fills. Get the app "mileage keeper" Enter your odometer # and amount of gas every time you put gas in......after a while, espescially if you do complete fillups a few times you will get an average mileage # I've been tracking my EJ18 swapped GL for about 4 mounts now. I'm on;y getting 19.3 MPG. I drive fast, High RPMs, tow trailers, and I have 215/60/15 tires (my ODO is correct cause I have an outback 4.11 5spd) but still, I've purchased 143.45 gallons and have gone 3159 miles on that. And there is still half a tank in the car. Hmm......now that I do some math that gives~ 22 mpg.....I wonder why the app is telling me 19.3??? Anyhow it's nice to have the app to enter the data every time I buy gas.

Yeah, Phase II trans started in 98. Phase II engines started in 99 with the forrester. However, the Outback for 99 retained the Phase I intake and heads (the block is a Phase II, #5 thrust bearing) 99 is the new 87.

Are the fuses in the holder for the ABS???

Yeah there in a offcenter strut top as well. Not factory. But cool. Those would be nice to help with the camber issue on these cars.

That's low engouh miles it might be a good runner. Probably been treated well. Can't stress enough.....coolant issues. Keep it full of coolant.....keep the hoses good, and keep the air intake boot and other intake hoses intact (it's own challenge) and they can be great engines. And if the car is really nice, it's a good candidate for an EJ swap in the future.

Vac line to the pressure regulator? Or maybe the regulator itself? It's the part the return line comes out of.

4" for sure if you want to leave the fenders and wheel wells intact. HighGuysLifts.com or PM me here to order. Our 4" kit drops all the front suspension evenly, keeping stock geometry and axle angles for daily usage. A high clearance version can be ordered, w/ 4" on the struts and 2" for the crossmember and raduis plates. This kit runs higher CV angles and positive camber. Better suited for all out "wheelers"

I pry between the stopper and the rod to put it under some load as I tighten the bolt. So there is less nuetral play upwards for the motor. The rod is always pushing down a bit.

What do you have currently? There is some interchange, but not a whole lot.

hmmm.......EA81 yes.. Loyale, no......not adjustable other than the slotted hole on the mount.

Nibble it off with some sheet metal shears. replace it the next time you do timing belts. No need to take a freshly sealed pump back out.

You are still supposed to set the handbrake. What you are feeling is the car rolling up against the "park" pawl in the trans. This is a small tab of metal that engages the output drum of the trans. It's not good to leave the whole load of the car on the pawl. If it's a hill your parked on, you may have trouble taking it out of gear in the morning. USE THE PARKING BRAKE......don't just leave it in park. Also, since you have torque bind.....there is some stress holding in the drivetrain between front/rear until you turn off the engine.....killing the ATF pump pressure and letting the drivetrain "relax" Between that and not using the handbrake that is the rolling your feeling.