Gloyale

Dealer alt from subaru for $80??? I don't think so. I paid about $230 for the last alt I bought from the dealer........and they discounted it for me from almost $300 What dealer are you getting these for $80 bucks from? And are you certain they are Subaru genuine remans.......I've seen dealers sell non subaru parts for some of the 90's cars. (EMPI axles, Continental belts, And "six star" fuel filters) I just can't believe they would sell genuine subaur alt for half the price of Autozoner crap.

Your cavalier boastery is foolishly ignorant. Sounds like your the one that is refusing to "grow up" and face the rules of the road.......like adults with the privilege of driving all have to do. You better care about "some stupid law" or get your dumb arse off the road, OK? You can't "get a waiver" to run studs in states where it's illegal. They can hear you driving with them on. And see them. You will be ticketed and possibly made to tow your car to a tire shop. Or they'll just tow it for you to the impound lot. I love studs, and I run them here in Oregon in the winter. But when I lived in Wisconsin I used non-studded snow tires (Blizzaks)

They are all DCZ-328 carbs. the numbers on the end don't matter. Don't worry about the G1/G2 clearance crap from the FSM...that's mostly about secondary opening angles. Cams don't matter. My guess is the bi-metal spring has broken the hooked end off. Very common. You will need to drill out the rivets holding the choke cap. Also knock off the little notch on the choke housing to let the housing rotate. Bend a new hook end on the spring, loosen the clamp from the pull off diaphragm and rotate the spring around to where the new hook will catch the choke lever. Use new screws to reattach the the housing cap. A carb rebuild kit will have screws, and a good blow up of the carb. It would be a good idea to pull the top off and replace hte Air horn o-rings, and clean out the emulsion tubes while your working on it.

A sump gaurd is a must.

PM sent

intake teh fitting in the block is just that.....a fitting.

Very unlikely this has anything to do with the EGR system or the thermovalve. More likely a carb that needs cleaning. You defnately should plug the large line off the EGR that runs over to the AAV on the passenger side fenderwell. It causes a big vac leak. But otherwise the EGR vavle itself is not likely to be any sort of issue.

Cast can crack. Seen it....not on a subie but on other diffs. And the Aluminum rear is very vulnerable when backing up/out of obstacles. I've punctured Oil filters too up front. And I damn near destroyed my gas tank doing this: Rock Garden on Firebreak 5....Brown's Camp, OR Luckinly it didn't puncture.....but some plates and sliders from the mustache bar to the trailer hitch is on the list.

At idle...the Vac port hooked to the EGR is above the vacuum. This is what;s called "ported" vacuum or "above throttle" vacuum. The hole is physically above the flap in the throttle body, so when it's closed, there is no vacuum to EGR. This is how it is on all cars. Carbed subarus use a thermovalve mounted to the manifold to keep EGR off until warmed up. FI ones do the same thing with a solenoid. But for both, once warm....the EGR gets vacuum from the port just above throttle plate, all the time once warm.

Coolant temp sensor or leaks in the air boot/PCV system.

That would probably work.

Do you have a pitch stopper rod? You need one or this will keep happening. Shouldn't this be in retrofitting???

Alright......Back to work on this Be-atch Nothing too exciting. Finally got the frame on the trailer, and towed it over to my buddy's house to use the big D/C Generator welder to do this: He's also got the nice air "needle" power slag remval tool....so I took the chance to clean up alot of the slag before painting. Finally ready to mount the body!!!

Flasshing CEL means the ECU is detecting conditions that could damage the Catalytic converter. This could be as simple as misfiring plugs/wires.......or it could mean you've got a valve burning, or a Lean condition from MAF/MAP issues or low fuel pressure. But flashing means stop driving. Cool off Engine, drive "lighty".......like not 75~80

Brown plug is the nuetral switch. IIRC the one for reverse lights will have Green/white and Green/Black wires.

You should be able to reach it with your fingers

If you have a good leveler on the hoist you can pull all as one unit. Unbolt and drop the crossmember down a bit first will help.

Your best bet would be to post in the wanted section here ont he board, and have someone ship you a rust free one from WA/OR/CA

Justy parts will not interchange

Then they were hooked up wrong. EGR is always operated by above throttle vac port.

All EA82 4wd mounting points are the same. Fronts are the same for all 2wd and 4wd. Rears.....the 2wds the mounting point is lower on the arm......requiring a longer shock for rears of 2wds.

Sounds like the switch is bad. If it was a power or relay issue they wouldn't work when pulled back.

EA81 Everything with suspension attached will be dropped.

The arm that holds the wheelbearing/hub? That would be the radius arm technically. And these cannot be swapped side to side....they are R/L specific. If you mean the actual rear trailing arm.....which is flat, with 3 holes, and has the Torsion bar inserted into it's end..........Then yes, they are the same side to side. which would explain why they only list one. What is it you are trying to fix by replacing these?

I see now.....in the chart...... I think they are talking about adjustable dampening....which they are not adjustable. Adjustable spring height is a pretty unique to subaru feature I don't think they are talking about that.