Gloyale

Front? Rear? Which year? Whatever part it is your actually asking about......likely is specific to side.

I redrill wheels Half the work. No studs to buy. Easy to replace hubs if you have one wear out. Limits wheel choice to steelies with a flat center......but they are easy to find from Nissan/Toyota/Mazda/Mitsubushi trucks from 80's and 90's. Here's my GF's stock height Loyale with 185/70/14's About 1-1/4" bigger than the stock 13's

To be clear EGR should not be hooked to Manifold Vacuum. It should be hooked to Ported vacuum, just above the throttle plate. I believe with SPFI this is the port at the front base of TB, right side (left looking from front) All the solenoid does is close off the system til warmed up. Once it's warm....it opens to pass ported vac to the valve itself. Ported Vac opens EGR when Above throttle vac is high.

EA81 or EA82? Title says EA81......but First sentence says EA82.

There were factory skidpaltes on lots of Loyales, GLs. Subaru sells a Rear Diff skidplate as an accessory to. Made for EJ cars but fits the old schools stuff too.

That's the problem. You need to time the cams using the center of the 3 Hash marks, not TDC. Set to ZERO TDC after belts are done for distributor alignment. Eng @ 0 TDC, line up disty gear dot with mark on disty shaft then drop it in. The 3 marks are 90degrees BEFORE the TDC scale. Haynes/Chiltons manuals are full of incorrect infomation for these cars.

No the EA82 ones the perch is offset so they are specific to each side. You must have looked up wrong year if they say non-adjustable. Look up for an 86 with 2bbl carb vin 5. Here. Look for the 4wd ones. Left: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Sachs-Shock-Strut-Front/1986-Subaru-GL/_/N-ije30Z8oxxw?itemIdentifier=903714_816271_1759_ Right: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Sachs-Shock-Strut-Front/1986-Subaru-GL/_/N-ije30Z8oxxw?itemIdentifier=903713_816272_1759_ Looks like there is a non adjustable 4wd version too. That's what comes up when you look for 87+ These won't but they do make a version for the brat.....adjustable, super touring. Those the perch is centered so it's same strut for both sides. Listed for "hatch" http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Sachs-Shock-Strut-Front/1986-Subaru-GL/_/N-ije30Z8oxxw?itemIdentifier=903701_815996_1759_ Funny you ask. IN addition to being able to adjust them up further....they are just longer to begin with. A bit over an inch taller from spring perch to strut mount. They would give any EA82 a pretty "bump up" for sure. Man oh man they ride really nice too. Much better than the Gabriels we put on the front of my Girlfriends loyale. Wish I had bought these for her. Sach's Super Touring FTW!!!

Plan on doing the timing belt and Cam seals as well. Pull the valve covers. Check the specs....write them down for each valve. Pull the T-belt and then the Cams (might need cam holder tool for sprockets....sometimes strap wrench works) Remove each bucket one at a time and write down the shim thickness currently on each vavle. Compare to the measurments earlier and figure your new required shim thickness. You can sometimes swap a few around and on;y need to buy a few more. Reinstall is reverse. * Make sure to use a good 6 point socket or box end wrench.....fully seated.......when removing cam caps....they are notorious for rounding off/sticking....and are special from the dealer shouldered bolts.

No the valves are in the same place. The cams/carriers would need to be changed to move the valves. They have slightly different shape and thickness to the casting around the exhaust port cooling jackets. Biggest thing to look for is signs of leaks from the exhaust ports. Best way is to remove the exhaust crossover and look up into the exhaust ports. look for cracks like these. If the car is in good shape, it would be a good candidate for 2.2 swap. MPFI fuel lines, Pump, and all the other ECU connections can be made easily in one place to the EA MPFI computer. It will have disc brakes.....and even 25 sline axles if you wanted to go EJ AWD as well.

Did you use the Zero TDC mark or the 3 hash marks to set the timing? You need to use the hashmarks. If you used the TDC you will be off. And are the dots on the Cams 180 from each other?....they need to be. If you have it correct, the cam dots will be at 10:30 and 4:30 when the TDC mark is at 12:00 on #1 compression stroke. Firing order is 1324 Engine cyl layout looking from front. 3----4 1----2

2000 on a very cold morning is normal. Should drop within 3~5 minutes. As long as it drops to below 1000 once warm

Yup....These are EA82 They make an EA81 version. Gabriel also offers an adjustable option strut for EA81....but not for EA82. I need them as my car has big tires tucked just right.....If I use the "one size fit's all" KYB strut offered......I'd be rubbing......so I need the true 4wd height strut. The non-adjustable Sachs strut listed for 87+ EA82 could work too.....but for the same price I'll take the adjustables.

T-Bone --- Wheeler 8/6" HighGuys hybrid lift. EA82 front suspension EJ22 + D/R 5spd 30" tires Bonnie the Pheonix 2" HighGuys lift EJ22 + AWD 4.11 5spd XT Turbo Swaybars/disc brakes 215/70/15 tires (215/65/15 snows pictured) Axle Foley 1-1/2" Front lift...rear torsion cranked. Not really lifted just leveled.

When it's doing this, grab the IAC hose and pinch it closed....see if the idle drops. If it does.....that's a stuck open IAC. Which means a weak "close" coil..... So Vacuum pulls it nearly closed........but not all the way....and not quickly like when IAC works proper.

Not that familiar with tribecas. But could you access the connectors for the radio? DVD? Garage opener? If you can disconnect things on the circuit, then install a fuse and reconnect them one at a time til it blows you'll know which device it is.

If you haven't installed the trans yet I'd do that o-ring. You've got the hang of the TC seating now huh??? pretty easy and it would suck to have the delay issue rear up from the o-ring leaking. Sludge on the magnet is normal.....to some extent. Shouldn't be more than about a teaspoons worth of material stuck to that magnet. It's worn friction material.

Make sure your fans are turning on. If you can cool it down by driving faster.....then it's not the HG's.......putting more load on them would make car overheat if that was the issue. You are experiencing the opposite.....radiator not cooling well at low speeds. which means either your fans aren't turning on........or your radiator is somewhat clogged. I'm betting the first one. He may simply have forgotten to connect the electrical plugs for the fans.

Unplug the diagnostic connectors behind the drivers side strut tower. Green and White pairs...they are supposed to be disconnected except for code retrieval and setting Distributor Spark Timing

You can also use solenoids from newer subes, toyota, nissan, honda, kia........whatever. Just needs to be a solenoid valve that switches from atmosphere to vacuum when activated. Splice connectors to match your sube.

Axles. This is well covered for years. Replace the axle/s

I contacted the county here in my area..... And they said less than 5 gallons pour it on the ground away from stromdrains and then dilute it with 5X more water. Kinda surprised me. We have a guy that collects the large tank at the shop..Not sure what he does with it but he collects with a big truck and a suction charge pump For small amounts.....it seems pouring it in a relatively safe place and diluting it to the point of non-harmful for animals is the prescribed method at least according to my county waste department.

She paid $98 per side. $100 bucks per strut is not really outlandish pricing.......you can easily pay that for a good set of EJ struts for Outback/WRX/Forrester. Honestly...I'd pay $150 with how bad my current struts on the car are.....and they were factory replacements installed in 1996!

And clamps

Transitor unit which ups the signal and passes on the ECU's spark pulse to the coil is mounted to the firewall, just about center. These coils are paired units.....2 seperately powered and triggered parallel circuits. I believe there should be 2 wires with 12v in, and 2 more with 12v out leading to the 2 halves of the coil. As well as 1~2 more signal in, (- pulse) and 2 signal out to coil. Check for 12v out of in and out of this transistor , and a pulse set on both circuits.

Yeah...mine I did 3/4 inch. And it can be a bitch to get it all bolted toghther, but a prybar and the right sequence and it works. Really in the end it's just not great for the bushings......other than that it works fine. I only do this on my serious wheeler builds.......street car I'd keep it stock shim with 1 or 2 washers where needed for alignment but otherwise I leave em be for a street car.