Gloyale

Here ya go. First....The car.......not a pretty picture right now but she's a Gem. Factory 4wd sedan optioned possibly a "Black Diamond" package........everything for GL-10 except the plush seats. Cruise, Power steering, Power Windows, Sunroof, Digidash, Alloy wheels, and Air Conditioning. This factory 4wd sedan was only produced for USDM and only for one year. DigiDash had been swapped before I got it. Bummer cause I'd really love to believe this was the original mileage. Mind that the Carpet is from 91 turbo legacy. Front seats are Heated Outback. Rear seat back is from 2003 Legacy sedan. Only part of the rear seat remaining is the lower.......and it's pretty ugly.

Sach's OE exact replacement. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143333-adjustable-struts-available-brand-new-sachs/

GOD BLESS US EVERYONE!!!! IT'S A CHRISTMAS MIRACLE!!! I love my girlfriend so much. She knows just what makes my heart beat. I guess I'm being dramatic.....but this is the happiest I've been opening a christmas gift since my first bike when I was 5 years old. Anyhow.....Here's the details....Puchased through Autozone. Sachs part # 031-168 Must look them up for either 85/86 4wd wagon w/vin 5 carbed engine. Tiny Tim won't need those crutches anymore!

Hmmm..... The ones I've got have had the inner piece in place already. Should be fine to use the EA82 mounting hub (plastic piece) that's how they all are.

Yeah....that's the conbo to use with the Nissan TO.....EA82 clutch with EA81 trans. The first gen trooper Throw out bearing is opposite.......Slides on the EA82 quill, but is smaller and tapered like EA81 TO. 81-87ish??? Trooper (diesel for sure, pretty sure Gas is same)

Yes I've done this to address pulling to one side or the other when the toe and rear alignment are correct but still pulling. Ussually the side it's pulling to needs to be the one pushed forward one or two washers thick.

Yes once you unclip the boot and slide it down, there is a clip around the inner lip of the cup (inner end cup) Slip out the ring, and the jjoint will slide out. A snap ring holds the inner race to the shaft, remove it, and the boots can slide off the axle....then reassemble in reverse order.

Just bypass the E-brake handle switch to be "on" all the time. The brake light on the dash will be on, but the DRL's will be off.

High idle until the car is warmed up is %100 normal. Colder the morning, the more pronounced this effect will be, the longer it will hold this sustained idle. Can make for unwanted acceleration on manual vehichles if you take off right away.

Make sure to double sleeve the section where you cut and weld. Even better is to weld in rod, then sleeve....so the whole thing is solid still. I had one completely snap where the single sleeve was over the gap in the cut rod. That's on a serious wheeler. Street rig would probably not be an issue.

This is bad advice. If anything.....you'd want one of each at each axle so the overall difference between front/rear will be averaged out. That would put some wear on the spiders in the front and rear diffs, but at least the AWD wouldn't be affected adversely. Truely bad to have 2 different brands. AWD = 4 matched tires. ***edit*** Just realized this was old gen PT 4wd. As long as you on;y use 4wd in Snow/mud/gravel you should be fine with mismatched front to back.

2.2 heads can easily be done in the car. I ussually remove the valve covers and rocker assembly. Makes access easier.

Yes. But it's easier to remove it, and you have to unbolt the strut/knuckle bolts to tip the wheel out anyhow. Might as well take off the big 32mm axle nut and slide it out. Old EA stuff I would leave it cause pressing the axle in/out of the bearings can be tough, and even damage the bearings. But EJ stuff I'd just pull it all the way out and do it on the bench.

SOHC or DOHC engine? Forgive me since we didn't get that model here and I know there were some DOHC 2.0 and 2.2 litres in other markets. If it's DOHC there could have been some valve hit while it was out of time.

It's a good idea to replace the o-ring on the end of the input shaft before seating TC. This o-ring leaking is I believe the cause of the forward engagement delay problem in the Phase II trans.

Does this have 2 different size ends? EJ is 1-1/2" and EA rad it 1-1/4"

Tribeca wouldn't be a DCCD trans. Would be either 4eat or 5eat. Any chance you've added any accesories? Aftermarket radio? Amp? CB? DVD/Nav system? Garage door opener? is that a Factory option?

Coolant temp sensor??

I've seen several leak.....including one engien that had Headgaskets done when probably not needed cause the crossover was leaking......often it will just be steam since it's high on the block.......I look for signs of steamed coolant around them. I change out the orings any time I have the intake off an engine. 50 cents for 2 o-rings and 4 little bolts. Cheap preventive work that would be a big PITA if you had to pull it off for just that later. Never had one break. But I chase threads with a bottoming tap before re-install if they seem at all corroded/tight.

If it uses the stock brat axles with 23 spline stubs........It's a 3.9 ratio trans. If it's got larger 25 spline stubs......it's from a turbo car and will be 3.7 ratio. Pretty much all the 5spd EA82 4wds single and dual range, are 3.9. (except RX trans...easy to spot....25 spline stubs)

I've stacked one or 2 washers behind the rubber to push the rod forward a tad and snug up the rubber bushings. There isn't really any adjustment to be made other than that. As far as how far to tighten it should be all the way until the nut seats on the shoulder of the rod where the threads end. I used performance poly bushings meant for a Super Beetle. EMPI kit.

Ever done a weber swap??? It's alot of work. WAAAY easier to clean the existing carb and reseal. I could do it in 45 mins.

Loyale hesitation is often due to bad plugs/wires.

Universals with a High pressure (above 40) and at least 180 GPH will surfice. Still gonna be spendy. I run a walbro 255 in mine with an EJ22.

Why does everyone say this??? I've read just as many trouble stories as sucess stories about the webers. You won't get any more power....might lose mileage. And will cost $$$ Buy a $25 reseal kit for the hitachi (DCZ-326) and clean out the emulsions and reseal the airhorns. Less work and $$ and will make a HUGE difference in how smoothly it runs. Won't really yeild more power but will solve the high idle issues if done right. Best is just to learn to use the RPMS and shift higher.