Gloyale

14mm or 17mm It's an m10 x1.25 thread, but often the lower starter nut is a 17mm head if it's the nut on stud. If it's the pass through bolt (MT) it will be 14mm.

That works. And if I'm doing a full engine/trans removal often I go this route. But isn't "required", especially just for starter removal, no need to get under the car. It can be done with a box end wrench or a ratcheting wrench.

Ratcheting wrench. Removing the windshield washer res will help you reach down there.

For FWD you will need to weld or use a center diff delete in the trans. Might want to consider welding center diff in the current trans (if it's an AWD 5spd) and then just swapping to a 4.44 rear diff from any ole Automatic outback or Forester. Then just run RWD (use front CV stubs with axle removed in front hubs)

It's both a follower and a rocker. (face palm) Anyhow, let us know whats up.

I'll bet yer windshield is flexed. That cowl area has taken a beating eh?

Ughhh....... Well i guess that's possible. Why did they revive that miserable design from the EA82 era?

Do not rotate the engine BACKWARDS! Especially not if there is still an oil filter on the enigne. Oil pumps are positive displacement, meaning they WILL pump oil, either direction. So if you spin the enigne backwards, you risk destroying the check valve (i.e. flap) in the oil filter, and possible wrecking the bypass valve in the pump. On the older EA engines it would seriously wreck the oil pump bypass by pulling the staked in retainer out of the casting. EJ pumps are abetter design. But in general one should not rotate any engine backards if it has oil in the pump.

How did you determine lost compression? Did you do a compression test? And what do you mean "starter laboring on the upstroke? You do realize that there is ALWAYS 2 pistons on an "upstroke"? One compressing, one exhausting. And when those start to go down, the others are coming up........SOOO....... Not sure that saying "its laboring on the upstroke" is descriptive of anything....not accurately anyhow. I am skeptical that an engine with 54k miles would suddenly lose compression. Let us know what the dealer says when they do some actual testing.

12v positive to ones side of the fan. Switch connects to ground. A/C relay shouldn't have anything to do with it. It grounds the Fan wire parallel to the switch. So the Thermos switch or the A/C relay can ground the fan to turn it on. You need to test for 12+ on one of the fan wires. Test for Ground at one of the 2 wires for switch. Then test if switch is closing when hot.

I am strongly considering re-routing the oil feed. I inspected the pickup tube for cracks. Didn't see any, although I did not put it under pressure to check for hairlines, but it sure seemed OK. Could maybe have been the o-ring? it wasn't very soft anymore, but wasn't awful or cracked either. Meh?

CHRA,: Yeah...looking back I should have just ordered a CHRA and swapped myself. But I am busy and turbos aren't my specialty so I thought it better practice to go to a professional shop. TGV,: My thoughts too. It's a stretch, but I was pondering if ALL 4 valves closed at the wrong times, during full boost......could it have similar effect to failed a backfire or restriction? But then Bypass would blow so it would have to be failed too for in issue to occur. And tehy n't fully block the intake, and I would see a code for 4 failed TGVs AVLS.... This is my only real dubious system still so far. It is directly connected to the oil feed system. Something in the system opening up so much that all the oil dumps and the feed line loses too much flow??? I think it's pretty dumb that the turbo and the pass side AVCS are fed out of the same banjo bolt. Maybe I should build a new feed line for the AVCS that taps the port on top of the block or one of the plugs on top of the head?...I think there is a plug on top of the 04 heads? IDK, It's the weekend and I am at home not at car. I will find out soon enough. The AVCS system is getting opened and cleaned. For the bypass...., It's an automatic car, so there isn't the sudden closing of throttle between shifts. I guess doing full throttle runs then suddenly slowing as you reach the limits of public roads? If the bypass didn't open, then that might be an issue. Seems unlikely but I will look into it for sure

Nah, cams need to get at least 4 or 5 teeth (about 45 degrees of crank rotation) before you risk pistons hitting valves. Doesn't mean it didn't happen before and someone put a belt on to try and fix. Plugs are not impossible. Just tricky. Slip the spark plug socket in first, then slip a 3/4" socket to grab the hex on the top of the spark plug socket. You will need a compression tester with a fairly long hose though. No using the rubber tipped push in type (they suck anyhow)

The top arrow is the E-brake cable. The left arrow is the swaybar, it may be a bit bent, but it will probably still line up and work fine. The 3rd arrow is the radius rod. You will need a new one. You will likely need a new control arm too. You will want to inspect the radius rod mount point. I would repalc ehte balljoint and maybe tierods on that side too. They took a heck of a hit. Sometimes when this type of thing happens, the plate in the mount that the rod goes though gets pushed back, dished in so to speak. So you may want to stack one or two large washers in there to push the rod forward to where it should be.

EJ22 will give you 130 reliable, bullet proof horsepower I doubt you could make that much from the EA81 even with the turbo, and if you did it won't be for long. But if you are intent on it. I would definately switch to the EA82 turbo pistons to lower compression and they are much thicker and stronger to hold up to boost.

Sorry, but I would not ever reuse a bolt used to pound out a hub that a 5 lb slide would not remove. It's a bolt, not a punch. I've seen wheels fall off from the bearing retaining bolts snapping. On a jeep, but still, same general design. I could not in good faith reuse those bolts on a customer car. Just get the right tool for the job. Like I said, it works 98 percent of the time.

You will need to swap the TCU and the rear diff also. Different final drives Forrester = 4.44 Legacy = 4.11

Yeah, First they said that the shaft assembly was from Europe. But then later they were talking about "we shippped both failed units back to Ohio" so who the F%#$ knows where they were actually getting their parts. They claimed "their cost" on the rotating assembly was $430.....? And I am really not sure they were getting CHRA, maybe just the shaft and compressor wheel. The core of each turbo they provided looked like our original rusty cast core, just freshly sandblasted. Not a fresh cast gray. SO again.......I would ask for all to brainstorm. I am particularly wondering about testing Bypass valve, and TGV (tumble generator valve) and AVCS (Active Valve Control System) operation. As I said, no codes, no audible backfire, no signs of intake air leak, or of faults in the TGV or AVCS (no codes) Although there seems to be no problems with those systems, is there any wild chance an overlooked fault with these could contribute here to the turbo failures?

Not that it's a big deal, but then you gotta buy new bolts.

I have given you absolutely every detail I can without describing the hefty spoob I took while we warmed it up before the second turbos test run. For the record, the feed lines are clear and flowing. Sadly. They are just tiny and restricted to begin with. Here's a video (hopefully) This is the hose I had attached to the turbo line with a doubled up banjo fitting to put the gauge on. This is without the gauge just to show the flow of oil at idle. No exhaust. It's loud. make sure your sound isn't too far up. IMG_2864 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

If you hadn't jacked the hub so much i would suggest this https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4579-9-Way-Hammer-Puller/dp/B0015DMNIS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519434699&sr=8-4&keywords=slide+hammer can't believe I waited so long to buy this. Makes 98% of wheel bearing jobs a piece of cake.

You're car has somewhat of an odd duck AC/Alt setup. Many EA82 car and EA81 are different. I am not sure that EJ alt would fit in the with an inboard alt setup. Not saying it won't but I feel like if it was truly an easy fix everyone here would have been on it 10 years ago.

Update on the engine. Pulled the 2, 12mm hex plugs from bottom of oil pump, inspected for obsructions, there were none visible, clear up to the inlet and outlet of the rotor pump rotor. After that, and reassembling the oil pan and cooler, we again ran the engine (with new oil an filter) without the turbo (yes it's loud with no exhaust) and tested pressure in the oil sender port and again at the oil feed line to the turbo. both gave good readings (85+ psi at idle cold, 50+ at idle warm, raising with RPMS) Every test I have done, and every condition observed point to a good running, well oiled engine. SOOOO............. So the rebuild shop, Bell Turbo, in Albany Oregon, has sent the 2 failed turbo assemblies back to the supplier they bought them from. That supplier is refusing to warranty either. They state "lack of oil" This is hogwash. The original turbo had wear and was leaking oil into the exhaust causeing a huge cloud. That was the whole reason we took it out to replace. The car actually ran fairly OK still. So it WAS getting oil.....lots of it. And that turbo had tons of nasty ground up wear on it's bearings, but had not lost it's shaft nut. Both of the replacement turbos had in them when removed. And the one that I personally saw disassembled (2nd replacement) had virtually no wear on the shaft were the radial bearings ride. The owner of the turbo shop rubbed his fingers together feeling the oil and said "o yeah, that's good synthetic oil and it's not coked up" Here is my theory. The shop buys a balanced assembly. one that has been torqued down, and balanced by grinding the nut/shaft in one spot. The shop then has to disassemble the shaft, and install it through the housings. Then when they reassemble, they don't go by torque, they just turn the nut back to where the balance "notch" lines up with where it had been to maintain balance. Additionally, I've been reading that many small turbos need to be heated to 275 degrees before assembly, torqued within 5 mins to spec, and then allowed to cool. this way it shrinks up even tighter, and won't be likely to loosen when heated during use. I do not believe the shop did that procedure. They are kinda done giving us answers or further information (probably trying to limit evidence in small claims court). BUT......in the end...... The shop owner has agreed to refund our money, and return our OE core parts. While I am upset at the wasted time and failed parts, I must commend Bell Turbo for at least "making it right" and returning our money so we can move forward with a turbo from a different source. We are purchasing a genuine Subaru reman from the local dealership. I will be pulling the AVCS control solenoids and associated parts to inspect and reseal, but I can't imagine that would have any part of the failures. I will also be verifying the bypass valve opening, and will have a boost gauge on the turbo to watch for overboosting (or boost leaks) once we get it up and ready to run again. Again, everything in that regard seemed to be okay, no codes, no driveability issues or backfires.....but I want to be able to check every possibility. Stay tune for the next episode of "as the compressor wheel turns"

look at the heads. do the plugs go straight in from teh side, or angled from teh top? If the 99 donor is actually a SOHC (plugs anged in from top) then you can simply drop it in...no need to swap your heads. might need to swap cam/crank gear but then just use the 2004 manifold. And about the heads......Do you mean .09 Thousands (which is 9 tenthousands or .0009) or 9 thousands (.009)? Big difference. but either way the limit is 12 thousands ( which is .012) which is .3mm in metric. So they are way good at .0009, but at .009, they may not be able to be cut again at all.

No these are unibody cars. The body IS the chassis.