Gloyale

I know the heater select module will interchange. Fan switch should work.....might have to adjust the mounting and/or repin the connectors but should likely be the same. Wiper control is completely different.

No. Not on the street. The one rear wheel with the axle still would be trying to roll a shorter path in turns than the front wheels. The road would have to be VERY slick. I wouldn't do it at all.

ECU's are different....but not by much. No boost pressure solenoid/wastegate controller.....otherwise all the same. Turbo ECU runs a non-turbo well......Don't think I'd try the other way round risk running lean. Note.....this applies to 87+ MPFI dual port engines. SPFI is completely different. MPFI fuel pumps are all the same. Turbo's have an extra vent line on the tank and canister. Baffled tank. SPFI pump is high pressure but slightly smaller flow rate. Slightly return line than MPFI but bigger than Carbed. Baffled tank. Carb is smaller lines, non-baffled tank...with low pressure diaphragm pump.

I think the sedan is actually lighter too. The rear glass on the 3 door is heavy, and they added more metal to the body/ slightly thicker heavier metal after 87. I really like the sedans....but that's me.

I don't think this would kill the engine of either trans.....even with proper functioning AWD. The Automatic might.....if the TCU detects enough wheels speed difference, and locks the Hydraulic transfer to the rear end. But then again may unlock it slightly as it senses the engine idle dropping too low. IDK A manual definately won't kill the engine. You'll just sit there with the front spinning. At least at first it won't....the center diff is open....so the front will spin and the back will do nothing until the Viscous Coupler heats up and locks up. This isn't very good for the center diff though......I've had a couple fail to let go then they stay "locked" when pushed too hard. They heat up and you get transfer, but then they can stay that way so in my opinion it's best not to make them slip too much for too long. I would say the best test would be to find a gravel or dirt parking lot and floor it. If the front spins but nothing in back then it doesn't work......if the back kicks in after a slight slip from the front that is normal for the automatic. Manual you should feel all 4 right away.

True for the DOHC engines. SOHC engines plugs are super easy. Valve adjustment is pretty easy too. Tight on the back cyls. exhaust but simple. Way easier than the Cadillac for sure!

Pressed in pretty good. I've never removed one.

Where are you going to find a set of 90's EJ25 injectors with only 65K miles on them? In a junkyard? No way........That is something you could hope for and maybe if you scoured every yard all the time for weeks and weeks.......but not realistic advice to give someone. And then if you did find a car with that low of miles.....the Junkyard isn't going to sell you just the injectors and if they did you they'd want $$$ cause they know 65K miles is REDICULOUSLY low mileage......they'll sell the whole engine for $500-1000....... And that's here in the Northwest where you actually might find one cause there are MILLIONS of subaru's here. In the rust belt and east coast there were not nearly as many and most of thoses cars are LONG gone.

So, aftermarket made in china injectors are more reputable than companies that offer flow testing and cleaning??? Come on...Why are you calling me out?? jk But seriousy, any injectors I could buy new for less than testing.....I would not trust to be of the quality of O.E. Brand new O.E. injectors from subaru are around $100 bucks each last time I checked for that engine. And it's not true that almost anyone can get next to nothing injectors. And if you are so against "used" injectors that "can fail at any time" then why would you recommend running ones off a junkyard engine, with no clue as to their condition? Untested? That can't be a better option than testing and ultrasonic cleaning. You seem to be saying opposite things......What the heck is wrong with him testing his injectors? I send out injectors for testing and cleaning all the time......any time I have to replace a valve in a head just to make sure it wasn't caused by a lean condition. Mostly on turbo cars. Do you have any proof that those kinda deals are even available to him for this engine? I searched and came up with nothing for that application.

If there is oil in it.....DO NOT rotate it counter clockwise. Drain the oil, and remove the oil filter if you must rotate it backwards. Oil pumps are "positive displacement" which means if it turns, it WILL move oil. Rotating backwards sucks in on the O-rings in the block, the backflow preventer in the oil filter, and worstly, the pressure relief/bypass valve in the pump itself can be destryed by rotating the enigne backward with oil in it. Now 1/4 turn probably won't hurt anything......I just though it good to point out that rotating an oil filled engine backwards is a No-No.

Well that's good then! That would make me think there is a restriction in the intake rocker shaft or one of the ports that feeds it. Check the mating surface of the rocker holder to the head and make sure there is not a nick or scratch that could be allowing oil to seep out before reaching the rocker shaft.

I have seen this a few times. I always crack the Crank pulley bolt off and check that the keyway is straight down with Cam marks straight up.

Oil supply issue. It's not ussual for HLA's to go flat, over and over, espescially not brand new ones. Might want to blow out the rocker assembly passases that supply the HLA's. Or even swap out to a different rocker shaft and see if that changes the results. Also, after haveing a few different experiences with odd oil issues on EJ engines, and with what you are describing, I would personally pull the oil pump and check the screws on the backing plate. you can also remove the rocker shafts, and blow through the oil line that supplies the engine (center port of Oil Filter mounting)

Easy. Take off the turbo. Install a non-turbo y-pipe and a air duct direct from MAF to the Throttle body. (non-turbo XT air duct is direct fit......might be able to modify an EJ or EA SPFI one too) Cap or plug the ununsed Oil and Coolant lines to turbo. Even better would be to do all that while swapping the heads onto a non-turbo shortblock for the higher comp pistons. I ran that setup for a long time and it was a smooth engine. Make sure your heads aren't cracked in the exhuast first. OR........one more option would be to swap a complete carbie EA82 engine in. Swap to low pressure fuel pump, install the carbie coil and disty and give it 12v. Done.

No.. The EJ25 DOHC heads are side specific. SOHC EJ22 and EJ25 have slight variations.....but technically could be switched side to side.

Hitachi dcz-328 85-87 4wd wagon, sedan, or 3-door. Non-california. California models 85-86 have a feedback version of same carb can be used but has different jet and bleeds ment to be adjusted by an ECU. 87 Cali model is SPFI.

If they pass the flow test then how would they be hurting performance. Checked Ebay and a used single injector is $25 There were no "new" standard flow injectors for sale at all. Only 550cc and higher turbo application type. They aren't new but cleaned, increased flow, and tested. Who knows what quality guts they "rebuild" them with.......but they range from $300 to $600 dollars and are all waaaaay too big a flow for a N/A engine. You personally may have some hookup or source for cheap injectors......but you can't give advice to others based on circumstances that are specific to you. I'd say he's better off testing a known good set of OEM injectors, and using those rather than some "upgrade" rebuild ones. Certainly cheaper, and OE subaru is almost always higher quality than unknown chinese electronic parts.

270 ohm resistor PARALLEL to the sending unit. Close by the sender, splice/tap the wire for the gauge, hook it to one end of the resitor, connect other side of resitor to ground. So basically split the wire. One side to the sender, other side through resitor to ground. 78 uses the same sender as 80's ones so this should work fine as long as the gauge still functions.

Yes the Larger style 83+ 4spd PP will bolt to the EA82 flywheel. However, the EA82 flywheel is not as thick, so starter engages about 1/8" less of the teeth. But he asked if he could use that and an EA82 or XT6 clutch set. Which will not work with a 4spd. Throwout is wrong, and disc has too large an inside diameter. On;y the PP could be used, and you would need a different throwout.....possibly Isuzu trooper. Nissan 720 throwout is for going the other way....(EA82 trans with EA81 clutch setup) If he's sticking with the 4spd, he should use the 4spd flywheel and clutch set. Could be done with an EA82 flywheel and mix and match clutch parts but easier to keep it all matched.

Thread jack... But yes welding rear diff is commonly done. It will make tight turns difficult and tires will chirp even in FWD on pavement. I personally feel driving with the welded diff in all the time weakens stub axles and CV cups.......most who do that have broken many diff stubs. But many people do it and it works O.K. for a while. I run a welded diff on my wheeler but I pull one rear axle until I get to the trail so never any stress on the highway. We now return to Scott's thread.

The rear wnats to come around cause it's all wheel drive and you are giving it too much throttle. So.....All the teams all over the world that run Subarus as rally cars in snow.........I guess those guys should get Buick Lacrosses LOL!

I think power to the gauge drops out while cranking and slow cranking is barely any pressure try starting it.

Looks like some synchro material. Not bad as long as no chunks of steel put magnet in it see how much sticks to it. If not much steel then it all fine. Stiffness in a turn is more likely the axle than in the trans. If it binds up like brakes on and hopping tires then could be torque bind seized coupler

+1 I guess someday I will have to make a video of the rebuild process.

Any EA82 carb will work. They are all Hitachis, and the same model with a few tiny differences in jetting and secondary opening angle but all the same and interchangable. It is likely that the carb on there is hooked up wrong, if they capped the air bleeds (common....people think it's a vacuum and cap it to "delete" emmisions stuff but actually needs to be open with a small orifice in the hose that feeds it)