Gloyale

5spd flywheel and clutch kit will not work with the 4spd Throw out is wrong and so is the clutch disc. Really it would be better touse a redrilled 4spd flywheel, and use the 4spd clutch. I have a redrilled 4spd flywheel here that I would sell you. PM me.....I also sell adapter plates made from steel with full size threaded holes and alignment dowels........unlike SJR plates.

Firstly, they must have changed allot more than Timing belt. Probably sealed cams, replaced idlers and water pump, sealed crank and should have done vavle adjustment and valve covers during the same time service. That's all part of the 105k service. Secondly, You live in New York state. That's the most expensive market for auto repair in the country becuase state of New York has TONS of regulation and fees to run a Mechanics shop. Very high overhead for those in business. Considering both of those things, $2000 is not too crazy........if they did more than "just the timing belt" Thirdly A 2009 Cadillac CTS 4 bluebooks WELL over 30k dollars. Not many people selling them either. Even fewer places to get them worked on. And that's used.....with 50-60k miles of someone elses abuse. For 30k, buying a BRAND new subaru with a warranty, no miles, and a far simpler and more reliable engine setup........not to mention the difference in insurance premium.......it not even fair. Subaru is a way more economical vehichle.

Your not understanding relays. The Blue/red is 12v from fuse box, to the relay. The Green/white is 12v out to the fan when the relay closes. The Red/yellow wire should be 12v signal when key is turned on. From fuse 12 15amp. If key is off, this wire has no power, and the relay is open so no power goes out the Green/white. The last wire should be Red/white. This wire should have ground. Non A/C ground all the time........A/C models ground only when one of the mode select switches is depressed (heat/vent/defrost/etc..) Sounds like you either have no power to Red/yellow or no ground on the Red/white. This means the relay never closes. fix that and the relay will work. Then replace your blower resistor because your 1 and 2 speeds are burned out. Sounds to me like the power is not getting to the trigger wire with Key on.

I have never heard of different # of teeth on the flywheels. Older 4spds had a smaller face in the middle and smaller disc but outside of trans and starters stayed the same so I can't see how the outside edge of the flywheel could be different and never heard of that. Are you using a 4spd or 5spd trans?

Shim it out. Or swap to an EA82 Flywheel.

Use a Box end 17mm wrench on the cam bolt. Using your hand is a good way to get sliced by the edges of the pulley.

Stopping power in the snow is all about the tires. If you left the standard Michelins (not excactly cheap) on there and expected them to give you good stopping in snow that's you''re fault for not putting winter tires on what is by your own description the "winter" car. And to address the comparison to Mercedes C class and Caddillac CTS4.....that's just rediculous. You think your gonna have less trouble or maintenence cost with those vehichles? I think that the fact that Mercedes and Cadillac are the only cars you can even find to compare speaks to how good a subaru actually is. Subarus were like the Kia of the 70's, and now we are putting them up against 2 of the most premier makers of autos in the world? And then asking it to be better than those cars, which it arguably is in some ways. It's not a apples to apples comparison but sure, I'll take it. Subaru will take more abuse and cost less over the long run 250k+ miles.... VS. either of those cars and when those cars do need work the parts will be expensive, and for the Cadillac espescially will be hard to find and then the labor cost of working on either of those complicated crammed in engines is ridiculous. The subaru almost anyone with some mechanical knowledge and a few tools could do almost any of the maintence required. Parts are cheap and available commonly sold at any parts store not ordered from Germany or special order from 12 different options with the Caddy, get the wrong parts.....cheap GM crap with fancy chrome anyway. And for metal thickness, Convertibles have more reinforcement in unibody because of the lack of a roof arch. Also I doubt anything except external sheet was measured get a cross section of the B pillar you will see subaru strength. Fire depts had to invest in more powerful "jaws of life" and teach special training on how to cut Subaru pillars becuase they are so strong more than most other makes and older cars.

Cannot bore a 2.2 block to 2.5 size Sti intake is for dual port engine will not fit SOHC heads. You have a complete engine in pretty good form there. Best thing you could do besides leaving it alone would be maybe some 2.5D heads and intake and the TDO5. You will never keep the configuration you spoke of Non-interfernece....the EJ22t you have is non-interference RIGHT NOW......change heads and it will be interference. Heck.if your goal is reliable performance, .sell the EJ22t ......throw an EBAY header, the TD04/5, and some bigger injectors and a tune on the 2.5 in the forester, run 3~5lbs boost you'll have as much HP and probably more torque and all at lower RPMS.

Just to be clear when you upgrade....you DEFINATELY should add a new wire from Alt. to Batt. BUT it needs to be protected. IF the ALT shorts internally, it will melt the wire, and then the battery will catch fire........yes......that's what will happen so the circuit needs protection.....got it? In the factory configuration this wire goes through a "FUSIBLE LINK" not a fuse. Newer Legacy, etc....use "Slow Blow" high amp fuses....kinda the same. You don't want a standard "fuse" that will blow suddenly during a spike of the rated amperage. If you use say a 100 AMP.....it might pop during a max. output situation from a spike. You'll blow it often if you have a big stereo or turn on lots of offroad lights while using defrost and blower and then radiator fan kicks in see what I'm sayin? You want it to be "fusible link" wire or a Slow Blow fuse that will only melt after a prolonged(3-15 secs) high amp draw. A 2" length of 10ga fusible link wire will provide 100-130 amps of protection. Place this as close to the battery as possible.

Call me crazy......but I don't think you can swap JUST the ring. R&P's are always sold as sets to my knowledge. I would not trust an unmatched set. There is a company that has done all the legwork already, and they sell a proven product. If you are really serious about this, I would suggest pony up the $ for the SubaruGears product that has already been proven to work. Drop it in and go....done.

Pulling the pump takes about 15 min.....you could pull it up, look at it and get I.D. #'s or a pic.....and then drop it right back in until the order arrives. It's super easy phillips head and a 8mm socket.

Yeah, I'd worry about the engine first. The engine is the much bigger issue. Drain it, and the trans and differentials if it was sitting submerged all those will be milkshake inside. I'd turn it a few times by hand to make sure it's smooth. Changing plugs is easy once you remove the airbox, and the washer bottle. ECU could actually be O.K. Can't figure out why the hell subaru started putting ECU's on the FLOOR? DUH! But I have seen them be wet and still work while underwater!!!

That's what I've got for the lower hose on both my stock height swaps. 18" for lower and 11" for upper 1-1/4 at one end 1-1/2 at the other. Just asked at Napa by dimension and they ordered them.

Clogged slow jet on the primary. Drain fuel bowl, blow out jet and emulsion tubes.

Year and engine of Loyale? Just checked. Auto belt or not does not affect ground. Auto belt models there is a "rev sensor" similar to old carbie F.P. units that cuts power to the relay if no TACH. signal. This would only affect the trigger side of the relay....not the actual F.P. power. Since your are tapping directly into the BLack/Red wire out of the EJ relay directyl to the Blue/Black wire at the EA plug you should be good. The Ground side of the fuel pump is directly to body. This is all for SPFI......see below for other. ****MPFI models F.P. grounds though the ECU...not the body....so a ground must be added for pump..otherwise the same for EJ swap MPFI only *****

There own website has both types pictured. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1268513&parttype=5128&ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=qaaioc9itj0d8fhv32ht5jbqu4 The A-1 cardone looks to be the smaller, correct subaru MAF The Airtex and SMP versions listed look like the bigger one. The weird thing is my stash all have the smaller housing, no screen.....but all are the type with the mounting ear sticking off the end of the electronic body.......whereas the one you have that is the "correct" one, has the mounting holes recessed. Have you tried unbolting the electic unit from the larger housing and installing it on the smaller one???

That's lame. I just went and looked at my pile of MAFs and none of them match that. They clearly have the part mislabeled. Nissan Shares a similar # system for there parts.......I bet that is a Nissan MAF that just happens to share the same part #

Nothin but the ducting underneath in that spot

This has never been nessecary for me with EA82 cars. Had to slot once on an 81 model much smaller holes than the later ones. But all my swaps they just drop right in.

EJ mounts DO fit right into the GL frame. All my swaps it's just dropped right in.

Yeah.....but is that Leggy an 02 or newer? I'm wondering if the early ones (2000,20001) before the H6 was introduced were shorter? The car I'm dealing with is a 2000. Hood from an 03 Baja.

So if it's not conduit.....what is it then? It's Galvanized, so it's not regular structural steel. It's not black pipe for gas line. If it is indeed galvanized water pipe...(still I think it's conduit)...but even if it is "heavy steel pipe" ..it's gonna bend and buckle and rip to shredds the first time you are tucking a tight turn around a tree. Water pipe has ZERO structural integrity. It's the worst of both worlds for this application.......soft and bendable AND easily ripped and cracked. I applaud the work, and effort.......but I think you need to go back to the drawing board big time. 1 1/4 is not strong enough for a roll cage......espescially not if it's "whatever" that pipe you've got there.

You didn't jack it just revived it. Which is good, it means you where searching for your answer before just repeating the same question over and over like sometimes happens. I think he probably solved it back in 2009 when it was posted. His swap was easy Loyales have VSS built in/wired up already just gotta splice in the EJ wire.

You do know the EJ25 manifold will not bolt onto the EJ22, right? You can swap the wiring, and the throttle body if it doens't have the same TPS......onto the EJ22 manifold.....but no need to paint the EJ25 manifold unless you want a piece of livingroom art.

Supposed to be 4 pulses per revolution of the cable. Not sure how many cable turns are in a axle turn.